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Silverado, Sierra & Fullsize Pick-upsThe Silverado & Sierra have been two of the best selling trucks in the US for decades, and is truly proven to be "like a rock".
I have a 2006 Silverado 1500HD that has the high beam indicator turn on a few minutes after the engine turns off. No keys in the ignition, opened and closed the door, no other lights or indicators turn on. Any thoughts on what the issue is? Wondering how long before my battery starts draining.
All the indicator lights are logic controlled by the cluster’s internal circuits, so it’s normal operation would be to only turn on the high beam indicator if the BCM requests it via the data circuit.
It’s normal for modules to communicate for a time after the key is shut off, but none of the indicators or warnings should be active, so the only reason it would turn on after key off is most likely due to an internal fault with the cluster.
If it’s a glitch due to programming, you might be able to reset the cluster by disconnecting the battery and jumping the cables together for at least an hour. If it’s a hard fault (internal circuits shorted) then the reset won’t work.
This era of GM vehicles are known for cluster problems - they are repairable, but if you’re not comfortable with a soldering iron, I’d recommend sending it out.
I have the same issue with our work truck. When you say common for these trucks have you seen a lot and is it something fixed by just swapping the dash cluster out or is it usually in the wiring harness for the cluster?
Originally Posted by Gumby22
All the indicator lights are logic controlled by the cluster’s internal circuits, so it’s normal operation would be to only turn on the high beam indicator if the BCM requests it via the data circuit.
It’s normal for modules to communicate for a time after the key is shut off, but none of the indicators or warnings should be active, so the only reason it would turn on after key off is most likely due to an internal fault with the cluster.
If it’s a glitch due to programming, you might be able to reset the cluster by disconnecting the battery and jumping the cables together for at least an hour. If it’s a hard fault (internal circuits shorted) then the reset won’t work.
This era of GM vehicles are known for cluster problems - they are repairable, but if you’re not comfortable with a soldering iron, I’d recommend sending it out.
I have the same issue with our work truck. When you say common for these trucks have you seen a lot and is it something fixed by just swapping the dash cluster out or is it usually in the wiring harness for the cluster?
se 1500 work truck
I’ve been a practicing tech for 6 years now and have several customers with trucks of this era. We’ve sent approximately 6-8 of them out for repair with services like circuitboardmedics.com
The clusters have problems with the stepper motors for the gauges wearing out (needle movement stops or becomes choppy) and the solder joints going cold (thermal cycling causes them to separate and make inadequate or intermittent contact).
However I’ve also found wiring problems - most notably, the ground circuits.
The easiest test for the wiring harness is to remove the cluster and use a 9000 series headlight bulb between the power and ground circuits at the cluster connector. If the bulb remains brightly lit for at least one minute, and doesn’t flicker while wiggle testing the harness, it’s not likely to have problems; but you also want to make sure there’s no pin fitment problems (loose terminals between the connector and cluster).
If you give me the year and engine of your truck I can get you a wiring diagram for the cluster.
I’ve been a practicing tech for 6 years now and have several customers with trucks of this era. We’ve sent approximately 6-8 of them out for repair with services like circuitboardmedics.com
The clusters have problems with the stepper motors for the gauges wearing out (needle movement stops or becomes choppy) and the solder joints going cold (thermal cycling causes them to separate and make inadequate or intermittent contact).
However I’ve also found wiring problems - most notably, the ground circuits.
The easiest test for the wiring harness is to remove the cluster and use a 9000 series headlight bulb between the power and ground circuits at the cluster connector. If the bulb remains brightly lit for at least one minute, and doesn’t flicker while wiggle testing the harness, it’s not likely to have problems; but you also want to make sure there’s no pin fitment problems (loose terminals between the connector and cluster).
If you give me the year and engine of your truck I can get you a wiring diagram for the cluster.
I have a 2006 chevy silverado, that i would love a diagram for. Looks like the cluster is dying, so any and all aids are appreciated
LOL, that would be helpful, wouldn't it! She's a 1500, LT. 5.3L
The GM diagram(s) are attached.
The cluster only controls the on/off function of the high beam indicator. It receives the command to turn the indicator on/off from the BCM which monitors the multifunction switch for driver request.
If the power & ground feeds to the cluster are good, try pulling the fuses for the headlight circuits one at a time and recheck for the indicator after each one. There’s 2 fuses per each side - 1 for brights, 1 for dims - there’s also 1 fuse for the DRL circuit and 1 for the fog lamps.
If it doesn’t go out after the headlight fuses are pulled, try also pulling the fuses labeled “TBC” & “TBC IGN 1” as these are battery feeds to the BCM. Note that your truck may not be equipped with both TBC fuses depending on vehicle options.
If the indicator goes out after removing a specific fuse, suspect a short circuit and/or faulty BCM.
High beam indicator
