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Need advice on brake job
Thread Starter
CF Beginner
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Need advice on brake job
I will be putting new pads and rotors,both front and rear on my 2003 chevy silverado 4x4. Is there any "twists" that I can expect to run into? Is this a typical brake job? I've replaced front pads and rotors before, and it seemed pretty basic. Is changing the rear any different than the front? Do i have to deal with the emergency brake cable in the rear? Also do I need a special tool to squeeze the caliper pistons down? I got two quotes to do the job. First one is about 1200.00 !! Second garage wants about 870.00 { ac delco durastop parts }. Now, If i do it myself parts will run me about 470.00 for good quality pads and rotors. What to do????
CF Senior Member
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RE: Need advice on brake job
Hint on squeezing the calipers- Open brake fluid res. and then use a c-clamp to squeeze the caliper open, just make sure to put something on the inside against the piston to put the clamp on so you dont damage the piston.
Thread Starter
CF Beginner
Joined: Mar 2008
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RE: Need advice on brake job
Does anyone know if I have to contend with the emergency brake cable when I do the rear? It is disc in back so I'm thinking probably not? I've done front brake jobs in the past but don't know what to expect with the rear. Most likely the same I'm guessing?
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RE: Need advice on brake job
LisFisher ;
Hey I am a newbie here too, and funny enough just doing my brakes !
here is what i learned... Front brakes are straightforward. The Caliper mounting bolts and slide bolts were real tight (I guess it is the heat and the torque they require) but I got them off with my impact wrench and heat. If you use heat, protect the boots as they are built into the caliper and cannot be replaced separately !! As for pushing in the caliper pistons, I used a c-clamp just too loosen while caliper was still on the rotor and then used a small piece of plywood and two clamps once the caliper was free. The rotor should come off easy enough once you get the caliper off.
As for the back. Re-placing the pads alone is easy, but if you have to turn the rotor then it gets a bit tougher. I got one side off no problem but ran into a problem with the driver's rear. The park brake mini drum is catching on the shoes. I was not able to release them with the adjuster in the drum. I am also having trouble with no slack adjustment in the park brake cable. In my manual it shows a nut and bolt slack adjuster. It is not there !! So now I am working on finding how to slacken it off !!
Good Luck let me know how you make out.
P S
Hey I am a newbie here too, and funny enough just doing my brakes !
here is what i learned... Front brakes are straightforward. The Caliper mounting bolts and slide bolts were real tight (I guess it is the heat and the torque they require) but I got them off with my impact wrench and heat. If you use heat, protect the boots as they are built into the caliper and cannot be replaced separately !! As for pushing in the caliper pistons, I used a c-clamp just too loosen while caliper was still on the rotor and then used a small piece of plywood and two clamps once the caliper was free. The rotor should come off easy enough once you get the caliper off.
As for the back. Re-placing the pads alone is easy, but if you have to turn the rotor then it gets a bit tougher. I got one side off no problem but ran into a problem with the driver's rear. The park brake mini drum is catching on the shoes. I was not able to release them with the adjuster in the drum. I am also having trouble with no slack adjustment in the park brake cable. In my manual it shows a nut and bolt slack adjuster. It is not there !! So now I am working on finding how to slacken it off !!
Good Luck let me know how you make out.
P S
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CF Senior Member
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RE: Need advice on brake job
By the way, but sure to lower or watch the brake fluid level in the reservoir as you are resetting the caliper pistons. If it overflows, which is likely, it will make a real mess.
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