If there is a thread on this I am sorry, I didn't notice one. I have a 99 Chevy Silverado 1500 2x4. I have replaced the 5.3l with a 5.7l. the previous owner performed the bypass and it kind of works it seams about every 6 months of so I need to do a reset of the system. this is not my daily driver and I mainly use her for pulling my boat (I know bust out another thousand) as this is one of the last years on the square body I am restoring her. so I am looking to see if there is a way to put in a toggle switch and momentary push button ignition. I need to figure this out before I switch the steering column as I am using a custom aftermarket one. There is no place for a key ignition on the column. Does anyone one know how I might be able to do this? I did it to my 77 Chevy Malibu years ago but that was be for all this electrical crap, in fact it was simple. I am great with the mechanics, just not the electrical.

 

I could be mistaken but I don’t think it’s as easy as installing toggle and push button switches. The system is designed to work using interrogation protocols (randomly generated codes between the PCM and passlock module) and attempting to alter the circuits could result in abnormal operation, such as intermittent no-starts.

That said, there’s been plenty of attempts made, but I can’t say which ones work as I’ve never needed to try.

I question whether or not some of the methods actually work long term or after a battery disconnect, but there’s plenty of methods to choose from, ranging from re-wiring to “plug and play” designed to simulate the passlock module.

I’ve only once bypassed the PassKey system which was simply matching the resistor chip in the key and soldering it into the circuit.

Just Google “passlock bypass” and take your pick of the results - at your own risk, of course.

 

I have read that leaving the resistor in all the time will cause problems as the module thinks the key is in all the time. This will work. As Gumby stated, there is no real easy removal of passlock, and it's a pain in the %$#%% when it dosen't work.

 

Thanks. It seams to me I may have to buy an aftermarket ecm and pcm to eliminate everything in-between. Wondering if I could relocate the key to dash or hidden somewhere out of sight just to keep it's function.

 

I don’t know if that’s an issue or not. I bypassed the system, at customer request, on a 1999 Oldsmobile 88 when the original wiring for the resistor circuit broke off at the key cylinder and the customer didn’t think it was worth paying for the repair because it didn’t get driven very often.

That was 3 or 4 years ago, and the car has been back for maintenance and repairs as needed, but so far there’s been no abnormal issues related to the bypass.

If I were going to attempt a bypass on the Passlock 2 system without replacing the PCM, I’d find a device that’s designed to simulate the Passlock module. I suspect it would operate similarly to an aftermarket remote start kit that’s compatible with Passlock, and because there’s actual programming to communicate with the PCM (as opposed to cutting and splicing wires), it’s likely the best chance of success.

Just be diligent in your research on them - with this kind of thing you often get what you pay for - so try to find reviews of the product independent of the seller website or Amazon/eBay listing as they can often be overrun with fake positive reviews in order to boost the sellers listings.