P1345
#1
P1345
I have an '02 silverado with a 4.3L and 145k miles on it. 3 weeks or so ago, the distributor went out. So I replaced it with a refurbed one from advance auto. Also switched out the crank sensor. When I took out the old one, I got excited and didn't make any marks. Just pulled it out and stuck the new one in. After playing around for about a week, I finally figured it out and got the Timing right and got it to start and run. But, now it's running rough. Before I did the distributor, truck ran smooth. No issues. Now, when the motor is cold, it's running rough. Spitting and missing. After I drive it and it warms up, it runs better. If I baby it. If I run it hard, highway or quick acceleration like us kids like to do, it bucks and misses. Even just cruising. I've done the rotor, plus, wires etc and still nothing. Also, I have a P1345. Took it to a shop, they said timing was in factory specs. They did a fuel service. Cleaned throttle body, seafoam through vacuum hose on master, etc. any suggestions?
#2
iirc a p1345 is a cam/crank correlation code.
get a scan tool and find out what the cam retard parameter is reading at 1500rpm. should be 0+/-2degrees.
sounds like the timing out to me?
what was wrong with the original distributor?
get a scan tool and find out what the cam retard parameter is reading at 1500rpm. should be 0+/-2degrees.
sounds like the timing out to me?
what was wrong with the original distributor?
Last edited by tech2; November 25th, 2013 at 8:17 PM.
#3
What's iirc? But, it is a cam/crank correlation code.
I took it to a shop, Midas, and had them look at it. When they looked at it they said it was within the 0 +/-2 degrees. That's when they did the fuel treatment. I didn't see the cam retard when they checked it though. And timing would've only been $60, the fuel treatment was $95. So maybe they just wanted more money. I'll try to find a scan tool to look myself.
I think it's timing too. The old distributor... On the top, the plate the rotor screws on to, that plate snapped where it connected to the shaft.
I've also thought maybe I stretched the timing chain? I changed my oil thday the old distributor went out. I didn't pay attention when I bought oil and got 5w20 instead of the 10w30 i normally put in it. I doubt that would be the main cause, but maybe gas something to do with it?
I took it to a shop, Midas, and had them look at it. When they looked at it they said it was within the 0 +/-2 degrees. That's when they did the fuel treatment. I didn't see the cam retard when they checked it though. And timing would've only been $60, the fuel treatment was $95. So maybe they just wanted more money. I'll try to find a scan tool to look myself.
I think it's timing too. The old distributor... On the top, the plate the rotor screws on to, that plate snapped where it connected to the shaft.
I've also thought maybe I stretched the timing chain? I changed my oil thday the old distributor went out. I didn't pay attention when I bought oil and got 5w20 instead of the 10w30 i normally put in it. I doubt that would be the main cause, but maybe gas something to do with it?
#4
the timing is the issue; that is why your getting a p1345. I'll see if I can find a diagnostic for that dtc.
When you set up the distributor you set it up using the special mark that signifies #1cyl not where the $1 spark plug wire comes off the cap?
Sure sounds like you set the distrib up wrong. When backyarders do there own work and then it comes into the shop...usually I gotta re-check all their work.
When you set up the distributor you set it up using the special mark that signifies #1cyl not where the $1 spark plug wire comes off the cap?
Sure sounds like you set the distrib up wrong. When backyarders do there own work and then it comes into the shop...usually I gotta re-check all their work.
Last edited by tech2; November 26th, 2013 at 12:17 AM.
#5
Every diagnostic I've seen says worn distributor gear, worn cam gear, out faulty cam/crank sensor. Really anything that has to do with timing. Lol.
Yes, I put it to the special mark. The little tab type deal that sticks out and has a 6 on it. Which is right where the contact for the #1 spark plug is. Which is almost 180 degrees from where the #1 spark plug wire comes out of the cap.
I'm sure I did something wrong, I just can't figure out what. Only problem is, the timing is set through the PCM, so I can't set it without a scan tool. Plus, if it's too far out of time, it wouldn't be running. And on the distributor, where the hold clamp is, it's flat on the shaft instead of round. So there's really only one way for the distributor to go in.
Yes, I put it to the special mark. The little tab type deal that sticks out and has a 6 on it. Which is right where the contact for the #1 spark plug is. Which is almost 180 degrees from where the #1 spark plug wire comes out of the cap.
I'm sure I did something wrong, I just can't figure out what. Only problem is, the timing is set through the PCM, so I can't set it without a scan tool. Plus, if it's too far out of time, it wouldn't be running. And on the distributor, where the hold clamp is, it's flat on the shaft instead of round. So there's really only one way for the distributor to go in.
Last edited by jmeek4711; November 26th, 2013 at 9:26 AM.
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