Any solutions to parasitic drain my 2012 Silverado. Have disconnected negative battery clamp and used a 12 volt test light. It lights up. I have closed hood latch and all is off in Vehicle with doors closed. Battery test good for load and electrolite levels and even readings. Have removed individual fuses one at a time, with no stop in light or amp draw. Once again at a loss.

 

I don't understand disconnecting the negative battery clamp, and the test light?

 

By disconnecting the negative clamp from battery terminal and hooking up test light between clamp and neg battery terminal you are able to tell if there is voltage going from ground to positive. Then hooking up a meter you can read that drain in amperage draw. Sound like around 50 Milli amps is executable.

 

50mamps is allowable...these trucks will go down to 10mamps when asleep if its stock...ie no added aftermarket modules ie. remote start
i would use an ammeter so you can get a true measurement. wait 10min for the vehicle to go to sleep...key out, all doors closed. start pulling fuses till you find the one that drops the draw.

 

Except that the test light itself creates an additional load, so you wouldn’t get an accurate reading on what the truck is actually drawing. You’re also adding resistance into the ground circuit which could be shutting down the component that’s causing the draw.

For more accurate results, hook an ammeter between the cable and battery, cycle the ignition key on without starting it, operate all accessories, then turn the key off and wait at least 45 minutes before checking the draw.