synthetic oil
March 18th, 2009, 9:38 AM
#11
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I had a 2001 Dodge that I used 10W30 Syntec in and changed oil and filter every 10000 mi. Took that truck to 284000 mi. with no problems. Currently have a 2007 NBS Chevrolet and use the new edge motor oil in it (also 10000 mi. oil & filter changes). I have and will continue to use fram oil filters since I have not had any oil related or any other engine failures in the last 4 years. I usually drive app. 80000 mi. per year.
The Dodge had no engine problems at the time of trade-in.
The Dodge had no engine problems at the time of trade-in.
And I read the post above that said an oil filter cant hold 5k worth on contaminants....that is an absolute falacy. As a matter of fact the 3k oil change is a made up number that is pushed by the petro-oil companies to sell more oil. Most new GM products have an oil life monitor which will tell you based on driving conditions when to change and most of them trigger at 5-6k miles...with cheap oil!
I am sold on sythetics now. Extended drain intervals and no reliance on imported oil AND it lubricates better.
On another note....for those that use Fram filters, read Consumer Report. They physically broke down all the major brands and Fram was one of the lowest quality. Just an FYI...
March 18th, 2009, 11:00 AM
#12
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Wow. So call me a liar.
Thats not put out there by oil companies. Oil companies get a really bad rep because of their high prices and greed... everything is a conspiracy.
Oil FILTER companies put it out there based on the oil analysies they have done for years. Some filters like K&N may be able to hold more than 5000k. if you are running ACDelco filters, I wouldn't dare go there. You should still change the filter at regular intervals.
And since I heard the word Fram somewhere, I'll go ahead and tell you that from what I have seen and heard, Fram is the orange can of death. Any oil filter that uses cardboard ends that can easily break off and clog up the check valves or return valves, I don't want to use. It may be great in analysis, but under real-world conditions, failures often occur with those filters.
Thats not put out there by oil companies. Oil companies get a really bad rep because of their high prices and greed... everything is a conspiracy.
Oil FILTER companies put it out there based on the oil analysies they have done for years. Some filters like K&N may be able to hold more than 5000k. if you are running ACDelco filters, I wouldn't dare go there. You should still change the filter at regular intervals.
And since I heard the word Fram somewhere, I'll go ahead and tell you that from what I have seen and heard, Fram is the orange can of death. Any oil filter that uses cardboard ends that can easily break off and clog up the check valves or return valves, I don't want to use. It may be great in analysis, but under real-world conditions, failures often occur with those filters.
March 19th, 2009, 8:37 AM
#13
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Wow. So call me a liar.
Thats not put out there by oil companies. Oil companies get a really bad rep because of their high prices and greed... everything is a conspiracy.
Oil FILTER companies put it out there based on the oil analysies they have done for years. Some filters like K&N may be able to hold more than 5000k. if you are running ACDelco filters, I wouldn't dare go there. You should still change the filter at regular intervals.
And since I heard the word Fram somewhere, I'll go ahead and tell you that from what I have seen and heard, Fram is the orange can of death. Any oil filter that uses cardboard ends that can easily break off and clog up the check valves or return valves, I don't want to use. It may be great in analysis, but under real-world conditions, failures often occur with those filters.
Thats not put out there by oil companies. Oil companies get a really bad rep because of their high prices and greed... everything is a conspiracy.
Oil FILTER companies put it out there based on the oil analysies they have done for years. Some filters like K&N may be able to hold more than 5000k. if you are running ACDelco filters, I wouldn't dare go there. You should still change the filter at regular intervals.
And since I heard the word Fram somewhere, I'll go ahead and tell you that from what I have seen and heard, Fram is the orange can of death. Any oil filter that uses cardboard ends that can easily break off and clog up the check valves or return valves, I don't want to use. It may be great in analysis, but under real-world conditions, failures often occur with those filters.
Its hard to argue with results.....those that use Amsoil or Royal Purple are driving proof of what synthetics and high quality filters can do. On that note Syntec and the other Walmart sythetics aren't even real synthetics, but super-refined, very high quality petro-oils (but still petro-oils), that a Court decision let them label as "synthetics".
I am not calling anyone a liar, but I have owned nearly 100 cars in my life, and am responsible for a fleet of agency vehicles. I have seen (and paid for) what works and what doesn't. If you are in your 20's or 30's you will probably live to see the day ALL vehicles use synthetic oil in the future....its just the way things are headed.
Last edited by texascop2; March 19th, 2009 at 8:40 AM.
March 19th, 2009, 10:16 AM
#14
Take your average engine, say an 03, or 04- 6.0L- V8 with @ 75K miles.If you've been using regular petroleum-based oil, is it possible to change from standard oil to synthetic? Do they "mix" enough so that you can switch without harming your engine? I, for one, would welcome the extended change interval.
March 19th, 2009, 11:38 AM
#15
CF Monarch
Wasnt trying to call you a liar or propose some conspiracy theory. It is an oil companies job to sell their product....they did a good job convincing us we need to use it more often. Reality is that we don't. Just send some used oil out to a lab. Its cheap and easy to do and you will find that most oil we throw still has plenty of life. Oil doesn't usually "wear out"....but it does get overly contaminated. Better oils have more additives, and suspend contaminants better and for longer periods of time. Better filters obviously filter better. Plenty of folks use AC Delco filters and change the oil when the oil monitor says (5k-7500) and do zero damage to their vehicle. I have no experience with K&N oil filters but there are others that can easily go 25k between changes.
Its hard to argue with results.....those that use Amsoil or Royal Purple are driving proof of what synthetics and high quality filters can do. On that note Syntec and the other Walmart sythetics aren't even real synthetics, but super-refined, very high quality petro-oils (but still petro-oils), that a Court decision let them label as "synthetics".
I am not calling anyone a liar, but I have owned nearly 100 cars in my life, and am responsible for a fleet of agency vehicles. I have seen (and paid for) what works and what doesn't. If you are in your 20's or 30's you will probably live to see the day ALL vehicles use synthetic oil in the future....its just the way things are headed.
Its hard to argue with results.....those that use Amsoil or Royal Purple are driving proof of what synthetics and high quality filters can do. On that note Syntec and the other Walmart sythetics aren't even real synthetics, but super-refined, very high quality petro-oils (but still petro-oils), that a Court decision let them label as "synthetics".
I am not calling anyone a liar, but I have owned nearly 100 cars in my life, and am responsible for a fleet of agency vehicles. I have seen (and paid for) what works and what doesn't. If you are in your 20's or 30's you will probably live to see the day ALL vehicles use synthetic oil in the future....its just the way things are headed.
You aren't supposed to run it by the oil life monitor. The oil life monitor is based on a 7500-mile synthetic, undoubtedly with a filter change in between.
On the other things you say, I'd like to see your source. I know you CAN run a filter for 25,000 miles, but should you?
Never. Its laughable to run a filter that long and not change it.
Take the valve cover off your engine in which you have run 5 25,000-mile filter change intervals in. Sludge, sludge, sludge.
Extended drains are the best way. I fully agree that you can run some oils that long, possibly longer, but certainly not the filter! Take off the filter, change it, and put a half-quart back in. What does it cost you? 5 bucks.
You are not convincing anyone (that cares about thier engine) that you should go that long without changing the filter.
I seriously doubt that the service interval is "put out there by petroleum companies". They don't need to sell us engine oil to make their quadrillions of dollars. They already have us in the gas market. But yet they are the universal scapegoat for everything else that is pricey.
March 20th, 2009, 3:41 PM
#16
So, ah, if, ah, you take your average engine that's been running on regular oil, and you want to change to synthetic, is it OK to just use synthetic on the next oil change? Will the leftover oil from the last change contaminate the synthetic oil, or anything?
March 20th, 2009, 4:44 PM
#17
CF Monarch
No. Ever heard of a synthetic blend? 
You can do it one of two ways, a soft changeover or a hard changeover. On a soft changeover, you will switch from conventional to a synthetic blend and then to a fully synthetic over the course of 2 oil changes.
I don't think it hurts just to swap from conventional striaght to fully sythetic. I probably wouldn't do it on an old engine....
The main reason you don't switch back and forth is because its said to weaken seals and gaskets. I guess some of the Alkabenzene additives in Synthetic do not agree with the Polyol-Ester based additives in conventional.
I have also heard that is better to switch brands of synthetic once in a while.
Apparently different brands have different cleaning properties than others.
Some say its better to, instead of using one brand all the time, to switch up occasionally to ged rid of contaminants that you normally wouldn't get rid of.
You can do it one of two ways, a soft changeover or a hard changeover. On a soft changeover, you will switch from conventional to a synthetic blend and then to a fully synthetic over the course of 2 oil changes.
I don't think it hurts just to swap from conventional striaght to fully sythetic. I probably wouldn't do it on an old engine....
The main reason you don't switch back and forth is because its said to weaken seals and gaskets. I guess some of the Alkabenzene additives in Synthetic do not agree with the Polyol-Ester based additives in conventional.
I have also heard that is better to switch brands of synthetic once in a while.
Apparently different brands have different cleaning properties than others.
Some say its better to, instead of using one brand all the time, to switch up occasionally to ged rid of contaminants that you normally wouldn't get rid of.
March 21st, 2009, 9:34 AM
#18
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Running my 07 NBS by the oil change monitor I am supposed to be able to go at least 10000 mi. between oil and filter changes. I currently have 4000 mi. on this oil change and am showing 69% oil life remaining. My manual also says to change oil and filter when the monitor says to change oil within the next 600 mi.
March 21st, 2009, 9:48 AM
#19
CF Monarch
Go by the manual then. Following the manual won't hurt you with a new engine. When you get toward 150k miles, I probably wouldn't follow that monitor anymore.
Why someone may ask?
There is a measure of wear along the cylinder walls and the valves by the time an engine makes it to 100k. This allows fuel to seep by the piston into the crankcase or by the valve and into the top of the heads where it mixes with the oil in circulation.
Excessive fuel dilution is what causes upper cylinder wear to accelerate rapidly.
If you are really concerned about whats going on in your engine, you need to send your oil off for analysis. It tells you what kind metal contaminants are in the oil and by that, you can diagnoses abnormal wear problems by what kind of metals are present in abnormal amounts.
Why someone may ask?
There is a measure of wear along the cylinder walls and the valves by the time an engine makes it to 100k. This allows fuel to seep by the piston into the crankcase or by the valve and into the top of the heads where it mixes with the oil in circulation.
Excessive fuel dilution is what causes upper cylinder wear to accelerate rapidly.
If you are really concerned about whats going on in your engine, you need to send your oil off for analysis. It tells you what kind metal contaminants are in the oil and by that, you can diagnoses abnormal wear problems by what kind of metals are present in abnormal amounts.
Last edited by EvansBlue; March 21st, 2009 at 9:51 AM.
March 22nd, 2009, 2:04 AM
#20
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You aren't supposed to run it by the oil life monitor. The oil life monitor is based on a 7500-mile synthetic, undoubtedly with a filter change in between.
On the other things you say, I'd like to see your source. I know you CAN run a filter for 25,000 miles, but should you?
Never. Its laughable to run a filter that long and not change it.
Take the valve cover off your engine in which you have run 5 25,000-mile filter change intervals in. Sludge, sludge, sludge.
Extended drains are the best way. I fully agree that you can run some oils that long, possibly longer, but certainly not the filter! Take off the filter, change it, and put a half-quart back in. What does it cost you? 5 bucks.
You are not convincing anyone (that cares about thier engine) that you should go that long without changing the filter.
I seriously doubt that the service interval is "put out there by petroleum companies". They don't need to sell us engine oil to make their quadrillions of dollars. They already have us in the gas market. But yet they are the universal scapegoat for everything else that is pricey.
On the other things you say, I'd like to see your source. I know you CAN run a filter for 25,000 miles, but should you?
Never. Its laughable to run a filter that long and not change it.
Take the valve cover off your engine in which you have run 5 25,000-mile filter change intervals in. Sludge, sludge, sludge.
Extended drains are the best way. I fully agree that you can run some oils that long, possibly longer, but certainly not the filter! Take off the filter, change it, and put a half-quart back in. What does it cost you? 5 bucks.
You are not convincing anyone (that cares about thier engine) that you should go that long without changing the filter.
I seriously doubt that the service interval is "put out there by petroleum companies". They don't need to sell us engine oil to make their quadrillions of dollars. They already have us in the gas market. But yet they are the universal scapegoat for everything else that is pricey.
Texas Dept. of Public Safety (highway Patrol) and many other police agencies are living proof. 20k oil and filter changes on every patrol car. cars with 100k plus with zero engine problems, and zero sludge. and in fact it is the oil companies that made up the 3k oil change, again read as many owners manuals as you can find and see which one say to change at 3k. selling us product twice as often as necessary doubles their profits. easy math...
if 3k is your comfort zone that not a problem, but dont try to tell us that we can put robots on Mars and men on the moon but we cant build a 25k oil filter? no logic there. if you are willing to spend the money the technology is out there. literally thousands and thousands of vehicles are serviced as I have spelled out and have no oil realted engine issues. the data is out there, you just need to have an open mind.