Aveo EVAP Canister/ EVAP vent solenoid valve
December 21st, 2013, 7:57 PM
#11
so it does.
If you know how they work and how they are designed; they are not a wear item. Replacing this part without a related dtc would be like replacing the steering wheel every 60 000miles.
Anyone like paying for replacing perfectly good parts?
If you know how they work and how they are designed; they are not a wear item. Replacing this part without a related dtc would be like replacing the steering wheel every 60 000miles.
Anyone like paying for replacing perfectly good parts?
Last edited by tech2; December 21st, 2013 at 8:00 PM.
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Jules (April 6th, 2022)
December 22nd, 2013, 4:30 AM
#12
Just stating what the manual says but not endorsing the service.
December 22nd, 2013, 6:47 AM
#13
2008 Aveo Manual
Just posting 60K service for informational purposes only:
60,000 Miles (100 000 km)
❑ Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months,
whichever occurs first). An Emission Control Service.
❑ Replace passenger compartment air filter. If you
drive regularly under dusty conditions, the filter
may require replacement more often.
❑ Replace engine air cleaner filter. See Engine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 5-17 for more information.
❑ Rotate tires. See Tire Inspection and Rotation on
page 5-61 for proper rotation pattern and additional
information. (See footnote +.)
❑ Replace spark plugs. An Emission Control Service.
❑ Replace spark plug wires. An Emission Control
Service.
❑ Inspect drive belt(s).
❑ Replace timing belt.
❑ Inspect EVAP canister and vapor lines. Replace
EVAP vent solenoid valve. An Emission Control
Service. (See footnote †.)
❑ Inspect PCV system. An Emission Control Service.
(See footnote †.)
Footnote:
† The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency or the
California Air Resources Board has determined that
the failure to perform this maintenance item will
not nullify the emission warranty or limit recall liability
prior to the completion of the vehicle’s useful life.
We, however, urge that all recommended maintenance
services be performed at the indicated intervals and
the maintenance be recorded
Just posting 60K service for informational purposes only:
60,000 Miles (100 000 km)
❑ Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months,
whichever occurs first). An Emission Control Service.
❑ Replace passenger compartment air filter. If you
drive regularly under dusty conditions, the filter
may require replacement more often.
❑ Replace engine air cleaner filter. See Engine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 5-17 for more information.
❑ Rotate tires. See Tire Inspection and Rotation on
page 5-61 for proper rotation pattern and additional
information. (See footnote +.)
❑ Replace spark plugs. An Emission Control Service.
❑ Replace spark plug wires. An Emission Control
Service.
❑ Inspect drive belt(s).
❑ Replace timing belt.
❑ Inspect EVAP canister and vapor lines. Replace
EVAP vent solenoid valve. An Emission Control
Service. (See footnote †.)
❑ Inspect PCV system. An Emission Control Service.
(See footnote †.)
Footnote:
† The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency or the
California Air Resources Board has determined that
the failure to perform this maintenance item will
not nullify the emission warranty or limit recall liability
prior to the completion of the vehicle’s useful life.
We, however, urge that all recommended maintenance
services be performed at the indicated intervals and
the maintenance be recorded
Last edited by Aveo5_boy; December 22nd, 2013 at 6:57 AM.
February 27th, 2021, 6:02 AM
#14
CF Beginner
Thanks malglot
I figured this one out but never got anywhere by asking anyone because each person i asked gave me a guess instead of actual information....big pet peeve of mine. Since I wrote the initial question the computer threw a code giving me the check engine light. The code I got was P2135 for the throttle position sensor. The car had started giving me the following symptoms and since I knew that the EVAP vent valve was about 30,000 past due for replacement, I knew that that was the likely culprit not the tps. My car would be fine if I allowed it to warm up fully before driving. If I didn't, there would be a loss of power experienced the first time I attempted to accelerate and then the check engine light would come on. If I continued to drive the car throughout the day, the light would go out after three warm up cycles and would drive and accelerate fine with some slight loping in 4th gear. Eventually the light came on and stayed on with code 2135 being thrown. Glad I didn't take it to a dealer and have them look at it because they likely would have replaced parts not needing replacement and still not solve my actual problem. I have read that often a single failure will often result in a code being thrown for an effected sensor even though it's not the problem sensor. I replaced the EVAP vent solenoid valve and my car returned to normal with no symptoms and no check engine light.
So here's the skinny on this. GM wants you to replace the EVAP vent solenoid valve every 30,000 miles or so. Why so often? Who knows but its location might be a clue. The valve itself costs about 25 bucks at your GM dealer. No big deal. Walk in-order one and in a couple of days you got it in your hands. The valve is located in the passenger side rear wheel well next to the canister which is not all that close to the fuel tank as it might be on other vehicles.
1. Jack up the rear passenger side and remove the rear wheel assembly. Support the car with a jack-stand.
2. The EVAP valve, because of its location, will be covered with all sorts of road goo. Clean this off as best you can to make removal easier.
3. Reach behind the valve and find the bracket holding the valve to the car, release the clip and slide the unit toward the rear of the vehicle to release it. Use the new valve as a reference to see how the unit attaches.
4. Using needle nose pliers, compress the spring clip on the vacuum hose on the front of unit and slide it back. Remove the hose from the unit.
5. Remove the wire harness from the unit and clean the filth off of it.
6. Rotate the vent line out of it's hole in the body and pull up on the clip holding the vent line to the unit. The line should pull right off easily.
Discard the old unit and replace with the new. Reassemble everything back in place in the reverse order of dis-assembly.
If you had a check engine light from the original unit's failure the light should go out after about 3 engine run cycles. Otherwise you can clear the code with a hand held code reader unit.
There you go. An actual answer to a problem!
So here's the skinny on this. GM wants you to replace the EVAP vent solenoid valve every 30,000 miles or so. Why so often? Who knows but its location might be a clue. The valve itself costs about 25 bucks at your GM dealer. No big deal. Walk in-order one and in a couple of days you got it in your hands. The valve is located in the passenger side rear wheel well next to the canister which is not all that close to the fuel tank as it might be on other vehicles.
1. Jack up the rear passenger side and remove the rear wheel assembly. Support the car with a jack-stand.
2. The EVAP valve, because of its location, will be covered with all sorts of road goo. Clean this off as best you can to make removal easier.
3. Reach behind the valve and find the bracket holding the valve to the car, release the clip and slide the unit toward the rear of the vehicle to release it. Use the new valve as a reference to see how the unit attaches.
4. Using needle nose pliers, compress the spring clip on the vacuum hose on the front of unit and slide it back. Remove the hose from the unit.
5. Remove the wire harness from the unit and clean the filth off of it.
6. Rotate the vent line out of it's hole in the body and pull up on the clip holding the vent line to the unit. The line should pull right off easily.
Discard the old unit and replace with the new. Reassemble everything back in place in the reverse order of dis-assembly.
If you had a check engine light from the original unit's failure the light should go out after about 3 engine run cycles. Otherwise you can clear the code with a hand held code reader unit.
There you go. An actual answer to a problem!
October 9th, 2022, 3:28 AM
#15
I figured this one out but never got anywhere by asking anyone because each person i asked gave me a guess instead of actual information....big pet peeve of mine. Since I wrote the initial question the computer threw a code giving me the check engine light. The code I got was P2135 for the throttle position sensor. The car had started giving me the following symptoms and since I knew that the EVAP vent valve was about 30,000 past due for replacement, I knew that that was the likely culprit not the tps. My car would be fine if I allowed it to warm up fully before driving. If I didn't, there would be a loss of power experienced the first time I attempted to accelerate and then the check engine light would come on. If I continued to drive the car throughout the day, the light would go out after three warm up cycles and would drive and accelerate fine with some slight loping in 4th gear. Eventually the light came on and stayed on with code 2135 being thrown. Glad I didn't take it to a dealer and have them look at it because they likely would have replaced parts not needing replacement and still not solve my actual problem. I have read that often a single failure will often result in a code being thrown for an effected sensor even though it's not the problem sensor. I replaced the EVAP vent solenoid valve and my car returned to normal with no symptoms and no check engine light.
So here's the skinny on this. GM wants you to replace the EVAP vent solenoid valve every 30,000 miles or so. Why so often? Who knows but its location might be a clue. The valve itself costs about 25 bucks at your GM dealer. No big deal. Walk in-order one and in a couple of days you got it in your hands. The valve is located in the passenger side rear wheel well next to the canister which is not all that close to the fuel tank as it might be on other vehicles.
1. Jack up the rear passenger side and remove the rear wheel assembly. Support the car with a jack-stand.
2. The EVAP valve, because of its location, will be covered with all sorts of road goo. Clean this off as best you can to make removal easier.
3. Reach behind the valve and find the bracket holding the valve to the car, release the clip and slide the unit toward the rear of the vehicle to release it. Use the new valve as a reference to see how the unit attaches.
4. Using needle nose pliers, compress the spring clip on the vacuum hose on the front of unit and slide it back. Remove the hose from the unit.
5. Remove the wire harness from the unit and clean the filth off of it.
6. Rotate the vent line out of it's hole in the body and pull up on the clip holding the vent line to the unit. The line should pull right off easily.
Discard the old unit and replace with the new. Reassemble everything back in place in the reverse order of dis-assembly.
If you had a check engine light from the original unit's failure the light should go out after about 3 engine run cycles. Otherwise you can clear the code with a hand held code reader unit.
There you go. An actual answer to a problem!
So here's the skinny on this. GM wants you to replace the EVAP vent solenoid valve every 30,000 miles or so. Why so often? Who knows but its location might be a clue. The valve itself costs about 25 bucks at your GM dealer. No big deal. Walk in-order one and in a couple of days you got it in your hands. The valve is located in the passenger side rear wheel well next to the canister which is not all that close to the fuel tank as it might be on other vehicles.
1. Jack up the rear passenger side and remove the rear wheel assembly. Support the car with a jack-stand.
2. The EVAP valve, because of its location, will be covered with all sorts of road goo. Clean this off as best you can to make removal easier.
3. Reach behind the valve and find the bracket holding the valve to the car, release the clip and slide the unit toward the rear of the vehicle to release it. Use the new valve as a reference to see how the unit attaches.
4. Using needle nose pliers, compress the spring clip on the vacuum hose on the front of unit and slide it back. Remove the hose from the unit.
5. Remove the wire harness from the unit and clean the filth off of it.
6. Rotate the vent line out of it's hole in the body and pull up on the clip holding the vent line to the unit. The line should pull right off easily.
Discard the old unit and replace with the new. Reassemble everything back in place in the reverse order of dis-assembly.
If you had a check engine light from the original unit's failure the light should go out after about 3 engine run cycles. Otherwise you can clear the code with a hand held code reader unit.
There you go. An actual answer to a problem!
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