Thanks, it is under the hood. The 1st video is mine to a T. My FPR was about $50 more expensive than the non flex fuel but I must have this problem fixed. I can no longer live like this with the extended crank and key toggling etc...etc... I was finally able to order the correct one now that I know the vehicle is flex fuel. I will be replacing this weekend since I am always so busy at work. I must say to everyone that I truely appreciate so many of you sticking with me on this so that I may bring this issue to a close. I get such a sense of accomplishment when I can fix something a little tricky and not take it to the shop. You can trust that I will post the final outcome and not just dissapear as some do as soon as they no longer have trouble. Well, I'll talk to you all again this weekend I think.

 

Replaced the FPR today and pretty much the same symptoms. (edit: if I pause for a couple seconds after ignition on before crank it does start quite nicely several times today) Odd thing though, yesterday it rained all day and I just went shopping and stuff...figured I will wait till sunday. The Suburban started pretty regular most of the day. Today is much dryer and with the replacment of the FPR the Suburban does start normal now and then. I'll drive it around for the week and keep an eye on the symptoms and behavior.

 

Ran the Suburban today at work...started it about 9 times with the slight pause after switching ignition ot on...many proper starts. It did revert to the old symptoms of extended crank or multiple crank attempts before starting a couple of times. I'm guessing the issue is not yet solved.

(edit 24 January 2023) Again today the truck exibits much better starting (instant start) like it used to do when I wait about 1 second after turning the ignition to the on position before cranking. I don't always time this perfect and get the extended crank now and then. I am thinking either ground wires or something electrical.

 

I too have this issue on my 02 flex fuel. I haven’t tried anything yet. I’m glad to know i’m not alone. I’ve read this whole thing and if I find a solution , I will be sure to share.

 

I still have the problem but I can continue to manage for now. I believe it will be an electrical problem closer to the pump. I will replace the pump at some point and pay particular attention to the electrical connections. I will post here if that changes anything or not.

 

AC Declco PF61E oil filter vs. aftermarket

Ok, a relative mentioned that the older 5.3 engines really need to have the OEM oil filter because initial oil pressure is low with some aftermarket filters. I don't know if this will solve the extended crank issue or not. The engine has started 3 times flawlessly today after fresh oil change using Quaker State hight mileage 5W-30 full synthetic and the above mentioned oil filter. I will post back if this doens't solve the issue or will post back in about a month if I don't experience the issue again.

 

Going back to the OEM filter did not change the problem. I think that it has a weak oil pump and I may try an additive to thicken the oil to see if that helps. I'm just trying to keep this post going in hopes of finding a solution to this issue.

 

Update: I have changed the wieght of the oil to 10-30 quaker state and subb'ed 1 quart for Lucas heavy duty engine oil stablilizer. No change yet. I have also added a large can of sea foam to the gas tank and will drive it the rest of the weekend to see if performance gets any different. I think there is an oil pressure sensor in this engine. I was thinking it was a connected issue.

 

Just reviewed this thread. When you first turn key on, do you always hear th fuel pump prime for several seconds? Almost sounds like that's not happening based on your description and the fact you have a new FPR. You could also try adding a backflow valve to your fuel line. I think there's one in your pump, maybe it's failed.

 

I have determined that is may be an electrical issuse. I can cycle the ignition switch to the on position 3 times in a slow, deliberate manner before cranking the engine. I starts within one second every time. The key fits loose in the ingnition switch since it is so old. I don't know if the problem is a worn out ignition switch or if there is another item that is not getting properly energized without fiddling with the ignition switch.

I cannot get it to work consistantly if I only cycle the ignition switch on. off. on and then crank

I get consistant start if I cycle the ignition switch on. off. on. off. on and then crank.