I was just looking for any info on front wheel bearings. I was told the hub has to be replaced and not just the bearing? 03 tahoe 4 wheel drive. And what is a good brand?

Thanks Kelly

 

i did my buddies 03 silverado ss. timken is a good brand but price. you can get it at advance auto and they usually have $50 coupons if you search online. that's if you wanna go local. or rockauto if you wanna order and wait for shipping.. not that hard a job if you can change brakes. but can be a pita if the rust seized the components together

if you plan on keeping the vehicle then spend the extra $ on quality parts. if not you can get the cheaper stuff but tell the guy behind the counter to let you see both and you'll be able to see the difference. other stuff usually made in korea poor quality

by the way they come with new wheel speed sensors. just unplug the old and plug in the new

 

Thanks, Trainwreck91

Here are some brands available today locally, Precision - (don't know about), Tim ken - (you said are good), Moog - (I've used before & Heard good things about Moog) SKF - (don't know about but they claim 95% of cars are using SKF), And BCA - (don't know anything about).

I plan on keeping the Tahoe for as long as I can. Should I just use the stock chevy censor, or use the new one? I thought I might use the stock one as it is working and to avoid any after market problems.

I think I am supposed too replace the axle shaft nut. Do the hubs come with a new axle nut?

Thanks Kelly

 

precision i heard was good as well as moog products..never heard of the others. i would go with the new sensors. 1. they end up eventually going anyway and giving a ce code. (my buddy first bought the sensor by itself because of a code only to find out he needed the whole hub which came with one) 2. it's already installed. 3. if it's any of those quality makes then the sensor is quality too. and i don't recall if it came with a new nut but i'm gonna say no

 

most do not come with new axle nuts.


if you live in a rust belt, you will need a sledge hammer to hammer the hub/bearing out of the knuckle.

 

Hi Tech2, I am not in a rust belt. I thought I could use a puller.

Thanks Kelly

 

Ok I am done. I ended up using a Moog hub. The Timken ended up being a 2 hour drive. The hub came off the spins (drive shaft) easily. But I had to work at it to get the hub out of the steering knuckle. The stock censer has a 90 degree bend to go throw the backing plate. The Moog was more of a 45 degree bend. This let the wire touch the backing plate as it passed through the hole. This would have eventually rubbed a hole in the wire. So I used the dremel to round out the opening in the backing plate in hopes it will not rub a hole in the wire. Hmm maybe if I had a big enough grommet that would have worked too.

Thanks for all the help.
Kellyh