'07 Suburban runs hot despite electric fans, huge radiator, etc.
December 7th, 2023 | 6:11 PM
#11
Thread Starter
CF Beginner
Joined: Sep 2023
Posts: 5
Likes: 1
Well, after talking with a mechanic friend about all the work I have done to improve my cooling system, and the fact that the truck still runs warm under certain conditions, he suggested that it might have a very small head gasket leak that could be the root issue, and that my cooling system upgrades were just masking the real problem by compensating for it.
I purchased a kit that tests for exhaust gases in the cooling system and it seemed to confirm that I do indeed have a small head gasket leak. I'm grateful to at least have an explanation for this problem that I've been chasing for so long. Here is the kit I purchased:
I purchased a kit that tests for exhaust gases in the cooling system and it seemed to confirm that I do indeed have a small head gasket leak. I'm grateful to at least have an explanation for this problem that I've been chasing for so long. Here is the kit I purchased:
- Block Tester BT-500 Combustion Leak Test Kit
December 9th, 2023 | 5:32 PM
#12
CF Active Member
Joined: Feb 2021
Posts: 119
Likes: 15
From: Magnolia,Tx.
I am reaching back to something I read somewhere, maybe here, that 210 degrees is what they are designed to run. My 2007 Tahoe 5.3L 4WD always runs at 210. If you find out anything differs please let us know.
February 18th, 2024 | 8:02 PM
#14
CF Beginner
Joined: Oct 2023
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Coolant
Hello,
I have a 2007 Chevy Suburban 2500 with a 6.0 (I believe it is an LY6). I live in Phoenix, and we have hot summers. Ever since I got the truck it has run a little warm when idling in the summer with the AC on. I have done a lot to the truck to try and improve the cooling system, but the problem just seems to get worse over time. Here is what I have done so far, in order:
- installed lower temperature thermostat
- coolant flush
- installed new fan clutch
- installed auxiliary electric cooling fans to push air across the radiators
- installed hood louvers to let hot air out of engine bay
- replaced factory radiator with a large 3 row aluminum radiator
- replaced factory transmission fluid cooler with a large 40k style transmission oil cooler
- replaced mechanical fan with factory style electric fan setup, giving the truck electric fans in front of and behind the radiators
- replaced water pump with Melling water pump, installed new motorad thermostat
I have done all of these modifications over the course of about 3 years and 50k miles. I feel like I've done everything I can think of, and the truck still runs a bit warm in Phoenix temperatures when idling with the AC on. I have a set of OBD2 gauges to get precise coolant and trans temperatures since I don't trust the gauges in the truck. The OBD gauges say the truck gets around 230 when idling for a while if it is over 100 degrees outside. If I am pulling anything (which I do regularly with the truck) it will run around 230-250 going down the road at this point.
I would love any suggestions anyone has for this problem. I am willing to put work into the truck to keep it running well, but I don't know what else to do at this point...
Thanks for your help!
I have a 2007 Chevy Suburban 2500 with a 6.0 (I believe it is an LY6). I live in Phoenix, and we have hot summers. Ever since I got the truck it has run a little warm when idling in the summer with the AC on. I have done a lot to the truck to try and improve the cooling system, but the problem just seems to get worse over time. Here is what I have done so far, in order:
- installed lower temperature thermostat
- coolant flush
- installed new fan clutch
- installed auxiliary electric cooling fans to push air across the radiators
- installed hood louvers to let hot air out of engine bay
- replaced factory radiator with a large 3 row aluminum radiator
- replaced factory transmission fluid cooler with a large 40k style transmission oil cooler
- replaced mechanical fan with factory style electric fan setup, giving the truck electric fans in front of and behind the radiators
- replaced water pump with Melling water pump, installed new motorad thermostat
I have done all of these modifications over the course of about 3 years and 50k miles. I feel like I've done everything I can think of, and the truck still runs a bit warm in Phoenix temperatures when idling with the AC on. I have a set of OBD2 gauges to get precise coolant and trans temperatures since I don't trust the gauges in the truck. The OBD gauges say the truck gets around 230 when idling for a while if it is over 100 degrees outside. If I am pulling anything (which I do regularly with the truck) it will run around 230-250 going down the road at this point.
I would love any suggestions anyone has for this problem. I am willing to put work into the truck to keep it running well, but I don't know what else to do at this point...
Thanks for your help!
Maybe get rid of the factory fan and only run the electric fans so that’s less stress on the engine. I’m just trying to maybe ask more questions you haven’t thought about to look into. Good luck.
June 23rd, 2024 | 12:35 PM
#15
CF Beginner
Joined: Jun 2024
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
07 Suburban 6.0 overheating issues
Weagle I too am having the same EXACT issue, I have done all you have, including the huge aluminum radiator.
my mechanic and I found the ambient temp sensors were the culprit for me( my hi speed fans were always slow to respond to high engine temps) this caused many times the truck just died and it would be a hour or so before it cooled enough for the computer to allow it to start again. After all the replacements and amb. Sensors. It is a lot better but…. The fans now turn on hi speed but shutdown when engine is cooled, bad part is if stopped at light or road blocks the transmission does not cool down. Not sure f I need to over ride the hi speed fans and put a switch in cab for hills and such or install a push fan on front. All this happens only when pulling my Rv. It is a 30’ StarCraft 252RB, I have the luxury of a scale at work and find that we are consistently over max total weight (14k) by about 500~ lbs. I know I am pushing load limit but this overheat issue should not be happening due to that. When I installed the extra oversized transmission cooler I thought the trans, factory, and my new larger cooler would be the trick but it appears that it is possibly becoming a new over heat issue when I trans temps reach 225-235. So hot wire hi speed fans or install pusher fan in front?
my mechanic and I found the ambient temp sensors were the culprit for me( my hi speed fans were always slow to respond to high engine temps) this caused many times the truck just died and it would be a hour or so before it cooled enough for the computer to allow it to start again. After all the replacements and amb. Sensors. It is a lot better but…. The fans now turn on hi speed but shutdown when engine is cooled, bad part is if stopped at light or road blocks the transmission does not cool down. Not sure f I need to over ride the hi speed fans and put a switch in cab for hills and such or install a push fan on front. All this happens only when pulling my Rv. It is a 30’ StarCraft 252RB, I have the luxury of a scale at work and find that we are consistently over max total weight (14k) by about 500~ lbs. I know I am pushing load limit but this overheat issue should not be happening due to that. When I installed the extra oversized transmission cooler I thought the trans, factory, and my new larger cooler would be the trick but it appears that it is possibly becoming a new over heat issue when I trans temps reach 225-235. So hot wire hi speed fans or install pusher fan in front?
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