100,000 mile spark plug change
May 14th, 2010, 3:22 PM
#11
Administrator
you will probably need to also use an anti-seize compound on the plug threads as the plugs are steel and the heads are aluminum... if you invest in any tools make sure one of them is a torque wrench....
UPDATE: plug manufactures do not recommend the use of any anti seize to the plugs as this can affect the torque applied when tightening
UPDATE: plug manufactures do not recommend the use of any anti seize to the plugs as this can affect the torque applied when tightening
Last edited by in2pro; July 30th, 2014 at 4:06 PM. Reason: updated
May 14th, 2010, 10:24 PM
#12
CF Junior Member
May 14th, 2010, 11:17 PM
#13
Administrator
Thanks Vester.. the plain truth is I had to learn these things the hard way with striped/galled up threads on an aluminum intake manifold on my first new car.. a Pontiac Fireo way back in like before computers like 1985....
May 15th, 2010, 12:04 AM
#14
Administrator
And just pray that the factory uses anti-seize cuz after 100K mi they'll be a real PITA to get out.
Just be sure you use it sparingly as it is conductive and if you get it near the tip, well bad things can happen.
Just be sure you use it sparingly as it is conductive and if you get it near the tip, well bad things can happen.
May 17th, 2010, 6:03 PM
#15
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I changed out my plugs right after I bought the Suburban at 53k. The auto store was able to give me the proper plugs after inputting the VIN. I required the Iridium AC Delco plugs since my engine is flex fuel. It requires a higher spark temp. (Although I don't run E85 and don't plan to.) The iridium plugs raised my expected cost a little.
The 200+ you were quoted sounds right since they are charging you 90-100 in labor per hour + parts.
With the proper tools you can change them out and save some money. Yes, the rear plugs on the passenger side are a real pain and you pretty much have to do it by feel only since you can't see. Prepare to utter some four letter words, but you'll be fine.
The 200+ you were quoted sounds right since they are charging you 90-100 in labor per hour + parts.
With the proper tools you can change them out and save some money. Yes, the rear plugs on the passenger side are a real pain and you pretty much have to do it by feel only since you can't see. Prepare to utter some four letter words, but you'll be fine.
July 30th, 2014, 3:37 PM
#18
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Some Info I found:
Copper conducts better and is generally used in higher-performance/modified engines. In dedicated race cards resistor-less copper plugs are used.
Iridium and platinum plugs are chosen for their longevity only. You shouldn't gap iridiums because of potential damage to the tips. For that reason and their inferior conductivity, they aren't used in modified engines. Keep in mind their price, as well.
Any claims of more power or fuel efficiency of one type over another are pretty much baseless unless you were using the wrong plugs to begin with. Stick with what your owner's manual calls for unless you have a reason to upgrade/modify. For example, if you have a turbocharged car but are running more boost you might gap your plugs a little smaller to accommodate. The claims by parts stores to upgrade to the Triple-Spark Ultimate Unobtainium plugs are just upsells.
Copper conducts better and is generally used in higher-performance/modified engines. In dedicated race cards resistor-less copper plugs are used.
Iridium and platinum plugs are chosen for their longevity only. You shouldn't gap iridiums because of potential damage to the tips. For that reason and their inferior conductivity, they aren't used in modified engines. Keep in mind their price, as well.
Any claims of more power or fuel efficiency of one type over another are pretty much baseless unless you were using the wrong plugs to begin with. Stick with what your owner's manual calls for unless you have a reason to upgrade/modify. For example, if you have a turbocharged car but are running more boost you might gap your plugs a little smaller to accommodate. The claims by parts stores to upgrade to the Triple-Spark Ultimate Unobtainium plugs are just upsells.
July 30th, 2014, 8:23 PM
#19
Administrator
Stick with what your owner's manual calls for unless you have a reason to upgrade/modify. For example, if you have a turbocharged car but are running more boost you might gap your plugs a little smaller to accommodate. The claims by parts stores to upgrade to the Triple-Spark Ultimate Unobtainium plugs are just upsells.
You should always check/verify the gap but do not ever use the tip as a fulcrum to adjust the ground electrode, if adjustment is needed use needle nose pliers to adjust the ground electrode...
August 1st, 2014, 7:30 AM
#20
CF Active Member
Is there a recommended torque for the plugs?
I am considering changing plugs this weekend since I have no idea when or if the plugs have ever been changed.
I figure I'd start with the ones closest to the firewall. If I can't get those out, or they just don't feel like their coming out easy enough, I'll stop and take it to the dealer.
I am considering changing plugs this weekend since I have no idea when or if the plugs have ever been changed.
I figure I'd start with the ones closest to the firewall. If I can't get those out, or they just don't feel like their coming out easy enough, I'll stop and take it to the dealer.