Got all my goodies in for the 100,000 mile tune up...
Wire set, plugs, filter and a serpentine belt... I do my serpentine about 1x a year and the AC belt about every 2yrs...this is all that is really required for the 100k mark.. I had the transmission serviced at about 75-80k
Some of the part numbers do deviate from what is in my owners manual, but they are direct replacements....
I have about 92k right now and probably won't get to doing the actual work until it warms up considerably...
Will post more pictures and FYI's then...

748RR AC Delco wire set
41-110 AC Delco Iridium plugs .040 gap
A3085C AC Delco HD filter
6K935 AC Delco Serpentine belt

 

Is 748RR the "upgraded" wire set? I love putting new stuff in our SUV's! lol!

 

2008 LTZ, 4x4, 5.3 engine. I did the following at 150k, I bought the truck at 143k

AC Delco:
Plugs
Wires
Premium Rotors (x4)
Premium Pads (x4)

Amsoil:
Front Diff Fluid - SVG
Rear Diff Fluid - SVG

Valvoline:
Transfer Case Fluid - High Mileage ATF

Arnott:
Rear Air Shocks with Dampening

I have the AC Delco Transmission Filter and Gasket for the Tranny flush, it's just been to cold to do it in my garage as of late.

My belts looked good, no cracking and still moist looking.

 

I should add that I also took the spare tire off, and checked the jack. I cleaned up and greased the tire latch because it was rusted(the tire will hang from the barb if it's rusty!). Reinstalled everything.

 

I'm 2 wheel drive so no xfer case to service, but I guess it would be a good idea to consider servicing the rear locker....
thanks for that input

 

Some helpful info...

• After doing some research and reading, I have found that it is best to NOT use anti-seize on the plugs...

• Using it risk shorting out the electrode if too much is used

• It can allow up to 20% more torque to be applied when tightening and cause the plug to break...

• Depending on what type of anti-seize is used it can cause conductivity issues (read poor electrical contact to the head for ground and weak or no spark), and cause the plug to overheat due to poor contact with the head due to the compound...

• Most all high-end plugs now have a coating on the threads to prevent seizing..

• Plugs should be removed/installed on a cool or cold engine...

Spark Plug Wire Resistance
397-1,337 ohms

Spark Plug Torque
15 N·m or 11 lb ft

Spark Plug Gap
1.02 mm or 0.040 in

Firing Order
1-8-7-2-6-5-4-3


Spark Plug Wire Inspection
Spark plug wire integrity is vital for proper engine operation. A thorough inspection is necessary to accurately identify conditions that may affect engine operation. Inspect for the following conditions:

Correct routing of the spark plug wires, Incorrect routing may cause cross firing.
Any signs of cracks or splits in the wires.
Inspect each boot for any of the following conditions:
• Tearing

• Piercing

• Arcing

• Carbon tracking

• Corroded terminal

If corrosion, carbon tracking or arcing are indicated on a spark plug wire boot or terminal, replace the wire and the component connected to the wire.

 

I got started on her this morning as the weather has been really nice here the past week, a couple of Starbucks refreshers Valencia Orange and I was good to go ...

The first thing I want to point out is that the #8 as everyone knows is a PITA, I have little doubt that some folks that pay to have this done(tune up), are paying for 8 plugs but only getting 7 done...

I started with the #8 knowing it is the absolute hardest one to do, I would recommend that anyone doing their own, start with #8 to get it done and out of the way.

I pulled the front wheel off to do the even number plugs (2-8), I thought it made access to #8 a bit easier as I was able to sit at the spark plug level and get both hands in at times. (1-7, I did from the top)

I used a pair of needle nose pliers to grip the #8 boot and leverage it against the exhaust manifold (you want to do this on a cold engine) and the boot came right off no struggles

You can easily see the #8 from under the vehicle but you can't really get any tools up that way due to the starter/catalyst/exhaust in the way, again I went at it from the wheel well and its still a PITA but it beat trying to lay or bend over into the engine bay and try and get around the A/C lines.

After removing the spark plug wires, give the area around the exposed spark plug a shot of compressed air to remove any debris that might fall into the spark plug hole when the plug is removed, this is really important if you live or have been in a sandy area, you really don't want grains of sand in the cylinder, or risk getting gunk on the spark plug threads and galling up the threads in an aluminum head

I found it easier to prep my work, I gap checked 4 plugs and set them aside, if you need to adj the gap, I would recommend a small pair of needle nose pliers to adjust the ground electrode, as you don't want to risk damaging the center electrode.

I used a q-tip to coat the inside of 4 of the new wires spark plug boot, plug side, with the supplied silicone lubricant, this makes the boot easier to go on and come back off if needed. I cleaned and buffed (yeah they look sweet, polished) the boot heat shields and re-installed them on the new plug wires.

When installing the new boot over the plug, listen and feel for the "click" of the connector going over and onto the spark plug tip, same goes for the coil end, you should feel and hear a confirming click... If you don't feel it I would recommend taking it off and test fitting it on a plug. The reason I say this is once you fire up the engine and you find you have a miss due to a poorly connected wire, that engine will be a hot SOB already, and you don't want to have to jack with trying to get it seated on right...just sayin'

Pointers/Reminders
*If you drop a spark plug while trying to install it, recheck the gap
*Use the silicone lube on the boot, if its not included get some.
*OHM out the new wire set before installing, it only takes a few minutes to save yourself the headache of a poorly assembled plug wire.
* There is a torque spec for the plugs, but there was no way in heck, I could get a torque wrench on more then 2 may 3 of the plugs... get them snug but not over tight...
* Do not use anti-seize on the threads as it can reduce the electrical conductivity of the plug to ground and cause over tightening of the plug..

 

Last few pictures...
All the plugs looked good for 92k miles, #1 was a tad oily... #7 came in second but it appeared more dried then #1, all the rest looked good...
I do use Shell Gas and add a bottle of Techron every few tanks, I also use M1 full synthetic since day one...

 

wow. belts every year? Sorry but if we paid someone to service our cars or went that **** we would be broke... Just replaced the belts and tentioners from original to all Good Year Gator Bite, awesome belts... did the transmission filter and Full fluid flush, serviced both diffs and the transfer, did all that for the first time last spring right before the trip to FL with 119K miles... Transmission was happy, belts are very quite, other than that not much difference, then in FL (120k miles) did all 8 plugs, 8 was last and not fun... The original plugs were fine, but already had the new ones...

Now a year later and 132K everything still fine... Don't see any need at all to replace brand new belts...

 

Its personal preference, it was ~$50 for belt and filter so I consider that a minimal cost for preventative maintenance every 12-15 months...
I maintain my wife and daughter's at about 2yrs... but my truck is the primary traveling/vacationing vehicle in addition to being my daily driver, its never let me down except for a couple of jump starts needed for run down battery....

This vehicle has been very reliable for me..
I just realized I am still on all of my original exterior bulbs, except for the license plate lamps that I changed out for LED's and the fog lamps which one did go out... that is pretty good for 7 years

I do need to visit changing the differential fluid...