jbuszkie

Hi! I just got a '12 Suburban. I want to put in a few extras.

To do what I want to do, I want/need a place to tap into a higher current
12V line. I'd prefer a switched... but I'll add my own relay if necessary (which means I'll need to find a switch 12V too)

It's been a while since I've dug into the guts of a car to add aftermarket stuff! (high school!)

Where is the best/easiest place to gain access to the 12V I need?

Ideally I'd just tie into one of the power outlets, but they are always on and I don't necessarily want to steal current capability from them. I'd prefer a separate circuit. But I will if I have too..

I yanked the center console tray and see a butt load of wires. Where can I fine out what they all are? Where can I find a wiring diagram?

My guess is I'll have to probably start from the fuse box. (where is that? under driver side?) I haven't even looked underneath anywhere yet!

Want I want to add is an inverter and a media player and more USB outlets.
The media player I'll just keep in the center console storage but I'd like hard wired switched 12V power. But the inverter I'd like to mount under the center tray (there just might be enough space) or under the driver or passenger seat
also with switched power. The main current requirement comes from the inverter. Our acadia we just traded had a regular 110 outlet in the back of the center console and this one doesn't and we already miss it! I'm not talking any crazy wattage numbers, but no more than 300W. I'll probably start with a smaller (175ish) inverter that's fanless, but I want to upsize the wires incase I need to bump up the inverter someday..

Oh.. and the after market overhead DVD players that were installed replaced the dome lights with LED built into the units which are not really sufficient. So I'd also ask for some suggestions on how to add more light in the interior!

Thanks a bunch!


Jim

kevinkpk

The inverter output at 110 volts will be just under 3 amps. I would think a 12 gauge wire on the DC side would be fine no longer than it is going to be run. One thing, If you are sizing the wire to a 300 watt invertor, thats ALL you should put on it. I'd also suggest you go with a 300 watt, even if it is more than you need.

SWHouston

I hear what you saying kevinkpk, but stuff like the OP's doing, has a tendency to get out of hand as time passes.

I'd suggest he run a separate Hot for his equipment, AND, think about getting a Battery Isolator and another Battery to run that stuff on. Inevitably sound is used with the engine off at some point, and it can deplete the start Battery pretty quick. Safe is better than sorry !

in2pro

I second just about all of that...
listening to my radio in my 07 for more they about 20 min will run down the battery... since I put in a second one in the spare tray I can have the radio on for over an hour with no issues...
I too have wanted to add the 120v inverter... I have been using a simple 100w one that plugs into the 12v outlet....
My second battery is not isolated though....

SWHouston

With a second Battery already installed, you're well beyond half way there !

It would be a very simple inline addition to your Battery Cabling, and some minor switching of components over to the Aux Circuit.

Here's some Isolators which are available should you consider this...
RV battery Isolator | eBay

Just a tip...
One would select an Isolator which is at or above the output of his Alternator. The 150 amp are very popular.

jbuszkie

I'm not sure I can find a 300W that is fanless. I'm also not sure how critical the noise factor is! Size might be an issue. I think I can fit a small one under the center console tray. The 300W won't. But if I put it under the driver's seat, then it doesn't matter.

Jim

jbuszkie

The thought is these will always be used while the car is running.. But you're right at some point it will be used without the car running. I'll think about the second battery. I don't fancy trying to run new wires from the engine compartment to inside the car! OR is it not that difficult?

About running that separate hot.. Where would I source that from? (assuming I don't hook a second battery right now)

There is a spare tray? Where is that?

SWHouston

As far as the level of difficulty...
It depends on how "handy" you are. Find a open space where you can drill, use a Wire Protector (rubber grommet) to isolate your wire as it passes through the Firewall, and move/place any of your ancillary sound equipment on that wire. Many use a Distribution Block, where the Hot wire is placed on one end, and several screw terminals are joined to that for the equipment. You may decide to run a separate Ground wire along side the Hot wire.
Both Hot/Ground wires, as stated previously, should be a 10 ga (at least) and run from the first bolted terminal on or away from your Battery(s) for the Hot, and any direct (bare) metal surface, which common to the Ground Cable(s) of the Battery(s).

I would highly recommend a separate Ground Wire for each piece of equipment. There are so many instances where, when a piece is conveniently placed, possibly in/through a non metallic housing, that the ground is lost or it's efficiency reduced.

Being generous with the size of the Voltage Supply, and frequently/independently Grounding your equipment increases/maintains the voltage differential in the system. Resistance increases the amperage required to operate, and there is subsequently heat generated.

As far as the location of an Isolator...
Those things can get pretty warm, I'd think about putting it (up high) under the Hood (firewall/fender well), or somewhere it won't impact the Cab temperature.

in2pro

Here is the post I made a while back of how I used the spare battery tray and how I hooked it up.
I don't have it isolated because its not permanent, its where I keep my deep cycle camper battery to keep it topped off now and then...


https://chevroletforum.com/forum/tah...y-36763/page2/

SWHouston

That's smart, works for Boat Batteries too.