Battery
October 15th, 2010, 11:57 AM
#12
CF Senior Member
sweet, let us know how much better it is in "real world" applications. I need to replace our battery - original and I am not going to trust it again this winter.
October 15th, 2010, 9:24 PM
#13
Administrator
page 132/578 owners manual for 09 Tahoe. aka page 2-26.
it does have ACC. and this is the position I always use to use the radio / windows with engine off...
They just moved it, 'American' cars used to turn the key 'backwards' for ACC. Now it's the first click forward.
Ignition Positions
The ignition switch has
four different positions.
To shift out of P (Park), the ignition must be in ON/RUN
or ACC/ACCESSORY and the regular brake pedal
must be applied.
(LOCK/OFF): This position locks the ignition. It also
locks the transmission on automatic transmission
vehicles. The key can be removed in LOCK/OFF.
On vehicles with an automatic transmission, the shift
lever must be in P (Park) to turn the ignition switch
to LOCK/OFF.
The steering can bind with the wheels turned off center.
If this happens, move the steering wheel from right
to left while turning the key to ACC/ACCESSORY.
If this doesn’t work, then the vehicle needs service.
Notice: Using a tool to force the key to turn in
the ignition could cause damage to the switch or
break the key. Use the correct key, make sure it is
all the way in, and turn it only with your hand.
If the key cannot be turned by hand, see your
dealer/retailer.
B (ACC/ACCESSORY): This position lets things like
the radio and the windshield wipers operate while
the engine is off. Use this position if the vehicle must
be pushed or towed.
C (ON/RUN): This position can be used to operate the
electrical accessories and to display some instrument
panel cluster warning and indicator lights. The switch
stays in this position when the engine is running.
The transmission is also unlocked in this position
on automatic transmission vehicles.
If you leave the key in the ACC/ACCESSORY or ON/
RUN position with the engine off, the battery could be
drained. You may not be able to start the vehicle if the
battery is allowed to drain for an extended period of time.
D (START): This is the position that starts the engine.
When the engine starts, release the key. The ignition
switch returns to ON/RUN for driving.
A warning tone will sound when the driver door is
opened, the ignition is in ACC/ACCESSORY or
LOCK/OFF and the key is in the ignition.
it does have ACC. and this is the position I always use to use the radio / windows with engine off...
They just moved it, 'American' cars used to turn the key 'backwards' for ACC. Now it's the first click forward.
Ignition Positions
The ignition switch has
four different positions.
To shift out of P (Park), the ignition must be in ON/RUN
or ACC/ACCESSORY and the regular brake pedal
must be applied.
(LOCK/OFF): This position locks the ignition. It also
locks the transmission on automatic transmission
vehicles. The key can be removed in LOCK/OFF.
On vehicles with an automatic transmission, the shift
lever must be in P (Park) to turn the ignition switch
to LOCK/OFF.
The steering can bind with the wheels turned off center.
If this happens, move the steering wheel from right
to left while turning the key to ACC/ACCESSORY.
If this doesn’t work, then the vehicle needs service.
Notice: Using a tool to force the key to turn in
the ignition could cause damage to the switch or
break the key. Use the correct key, make sure it is
all the way in, and turn it only with your hand.
If the key cannot be turned by hand, see your
dealer/retailer.
B (ACC/ACCESSORY): This position lets things like
the radio and the windshield wipers operate while
the engine is off. Use this position if the vehicle must
be pushed or towed.
C (ON/RUN): This position can be used to operate the
electrical accessories and to display some instrument
panel cluster warning and indicator lights. The switch
stays in this position when the engine is running.
The transmission is also unlocked in this position
on automatic transmission vehicles.
If you leave the key in the ACC/ACCESSORY or ON/
RUN position with the engine off, the battery could be
drained. You may not be able to start the vehicle if the
battery is allowed to drain for an extended period of time.
D (START): This is the position that starts the engine.
When the engine starts, release the key. The ignition
switch returns to ON/RUN for driving.
A warning tone will sound when the driver door is
opened, the ignition is in ACC/ACCESSORY or
LOCK/OFF and the key is in the ignition.
October 18th, 2010, 8:06 AM
#14
Stock
Ok, so, what are the specs on the stock battery?
I scanned the barcode on it and got "DEL-48-6YR"
This is what I put in: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...GRPBATTAM2____
So far, 1st start seemed to turn the engine over a LOT faster than the factory battery...
I don't think it came 'charged' so I have to run the truck a few days to ensure the battery is 100% charged.
I will report findings in a new post.
Does anyone want the old battery, which is only 6 months old?
The Optima Yellow Top is:
Group Size: D34/78
Voltage: 12
Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) @ 0°F: 750
Cranking Amps @ 32°F: 870
Reserve Capacity (minutes): 120
Terminal Type: Dual Terminal (SAE Top Post and Side Terminal)
Height (in.): 10
Width (in.): 6-7/8
Length (in.): 7-13/16
Weight (lbs.): 44
I scanned the barcode on it and got "DEL-48-6YR"
This is what I put in: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...GRPBATTAM2____
So far, 1st start seemed to turn the engine over a LOT faster than the factory battery...
I don't think it came 'charged' so I have to run the truck a few days to ensure the battery is 100% charged.
I will report findings in a new post.
Does anyone want the old battery, which is only 6 months old?
The Optima Yellow Top is:
Group Size: D34/78
Voltage: 12
Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) @ 0°F: 750
Cranking Amps @ 32°F: 870
Reserve Capacity (minutes): 120
Terminal Type: Dual Terminal (SAE Top Post and Side Terminal)
Height (in.): 10
Width (in.): 6-7/8
Length (in.): 7-13/16
Weight (lbs.): 44
October 19th, 2010, 7:24 PM
#15
Administrator
I keep my deep cycle batter in the "aux' tray and run it to the power distribution center under the hood, it has 2 available studs, one for your trailer harness and the other of "what ever", I just connect my deep cycle to the secondary stud and have 2 batteries but only one will crank the vehicle, however they will both drain equally...
Last edited by in2pro; October 19th, 2010 at 7:33 PM.
October 20th, 2010, 7:40 AM
#16
CF Senior Member
does your 2nd battery charge of the truck system or do you charge separately at home? basically the 2nd battery is used by the truck equal as the stock one for all electical functions?
October 20th, 2010, 8:25 AM
#17
Administrator
Correct it does back feed into the system for accessory use, but when you go to crank just like the rest of your accessories that shut off while cranking so does the access to the aux battery.
It's the battery I use for my camper, I keep it under the hood to keep it charged, if I need to give someone a jump I use it and disconnect it from my system.
I do disconnect it from time to time so I can get a read on how my main battery is holding up.
I too am on my second factory battery, the first one started to fail at about 2 years old, I go lucky and noticed the poor crank while leaving work and headed right over to the dealer for a warranty replacement...
My aux battery is an Interstate deep cycle from Sams Club ~$62.00
No it is not isolated, if one were to fail it could drain down the other, but the whole setup was less $15 not including battery.
It's the battery I use for my camper, I keep it under the hood to keep it charged, if I need to give someone a jump I use it and disconnect it from my system.
I do disconnect it from time to time so I can get a read on how my main battery is holding up.
I too am on my second factory battery, the first one started to fail at about 2 years old, I go lucky and noticed the poor crank while leaving work and headed right over to the dealer for a warranty replacement...
My aux battery is an Interstate deep cycle from Sams Club ~$62.00
No it is not isolated, if one were to fail it could drain down the other, but the whole setup was less $15 not including battery.
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