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2013 Chevrolet Suburban
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1999 Sub 5.7 Turned Distributor

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Old March 18th, 2009 | 12:55 PM
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danielcwebb's Avatar
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Default 1999 Sub 5.7 Turned Distributor

As the title says, I have a 1999 Suburban with the 5.7 and 4WD. I was replacing the ignition wires, and as I was pulling one of them off, the distributor spun. I tried to realign it as best I could, but apparently not good enough. I now have a MIL with Code P1345 "Cam Sensor/Crank Sensor Relationship Error". Considering what had happened immediately prior to getting the DTC, I am assuming the problem is the alignment of the distrubutor. My question is how do I go about setting it back in the proper place? Is this something I can do with my scan tool, or is this a dealer only problem? If it's a dealer item, any idea of the cost? Funds are tight right now, and I need to get the truck inspected. It will fail with the MIL on.

Thanks in advance for your help.
Old March 2nd, 2010 | 7:44 PM
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you may be able to do it with your scan tool,if the vehicle is still running fine i would erase it and see if it pops back up if it does then you may,depending on your scanner,be able to see if you need to advance or retard it.If your scanner isnt that sophisticated then i would take it to just about any machanic,theres should be capable of deterimining the exact position of the timing.i went to a shop that done it for $10$ either way you have to have a computer hooked up to it because its computer controlled timing.timing lights wont work on these vehicles,if im not mistaken
Old March 2nd, 2010 | 9:52 PM
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From: Digital Dogpatch
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if its only "spun", and has not been lifted out of gear mesh, pull #1 plug, turn crankshaft to TDC/comp stroke, and rotor should line up with arrow embossed on dist base (under dist cap) set, tighten, drive it to someone to set cam angle with computer.
Old January 22nd, 2012 | 11:49 AM
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HEY guys I NEED HELP !!!!!!! I have a 1995 tahoe with a 350 tbi. It has 250,000 kms and it runs like crap. It runs better in park then once you put a load on the motor the truck tries to die. It runs alot better when cold and if your driving at higher speeds (thats if it can even get to like 80 kms), and you put the pedle to the ground it sometimes dies or will down shift and try and take off but wont go anywhere. I have un plugged the o2 sensor and no change in running, i have un plugged the knock sensor and no change in running. The EGR is new i have done the distributor, cap, rotor, plugs,wires, coil, tps, map, tbi gasket, checked the fuel pressure its at 7 psi,grinded down the grounds, timed it, checked for vaccum leaks, and it doesnt throw a code. If there is anything else i could try PLEASE let me know. thanks.
Old January 23rd, 2012 | 1:12 PM
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250 k is a lot of miles have you checked compression the fact that it runs better cold the air is denser. If its vortec I think it's supposed to be around 180 psi I think, I may be confusing it with my 2 stroke!!! Also when mine ran like crap it stopped up the catalytic converter when I had it tuning right it still didn't seen right because of the cat I ended up replacing all the o2 sensors 400$ worth!!!! They play a vital roll in how rich and lean your engine runs, I don't understand why yours isn't throwing codes if you disconnect them, it should instantly run like crap when you unplug them
Old April 3rd, 2014 | 2:59 AM
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Default 99 tahoe lt

Recently got ignition timing set drove around yesterday and got a check engine light. checked it, it was a p0430 Chevrolet - catalyst system low efficiency bank 2. Did the change in timing make it run lean or rich or is the shop trying to make a few bucks trying get me to come back so they can fix it.
Old April 4th, 2014 | 1:28 PM
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Originally Posted by austinl7002
Recently got ignition timing set drove around yesterday and got a check engine light. checked it, it was a p0430 Chevrolet - catalyst system low efficiency bank 2. Did the change in timing make it run lean or rich or is the shop trying to make a few bucks trying get me to come back so they can fix it.
It didn't do either, adjusting the distributor only effects firing time of the spark plugs in relation to where the piston is. Even at that if I remember right the distributor is computer controlled so it really doesn't even matter where you move it because the computer will compensate for it because the timing is controlled by the computer. If I am remembering the right vehicle when I was working on mine that is what I was told that it would do no good to put a timing light on it as it is all computer controlled.
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