I fixed it briefly when I changed the resistor and fuse.

It popped after a month or so. I changed the resistor several times but still it popped. I upped the fuse to 60A, popped that as well.

I’ve been looking for any shorts or bad wiring under glove box, or in the rear A/C unit. All looks ok. I could easily swap out the rear resistor, but I don’t know what good it will do.

The right pin on the 50A fuse terminal doesn’t complete the circuit with my testing device. So likely the problem would be a short on that side. It might be my problem is under the fuse box where all the wiring meets the terminals. I haven’t seen how to easily check under here yet.

 

I'm fixing to replace the front blower switch again tomorrow, about the 5th time. The new resister setup in the blower box didn't help. I'm thinking the blower switch might control a relay that sends the current through the resister block in the blower box. When you get the blower switch out you will see one terminal that has melted the plastic. When you remove the control panel be careful because the plastic locking clips break real easy. The rear blower has never given me any problems.

 

I’ve looked at the switch and actually in the process broken those plastic clips! It still stays in place well with the facade in place.

my switch works and only stop at high mode. The 50A would power this circuit if it didn’t blow out.

Frustrating problem I hope to solve before it gets much hotter.

 

The clips on my panel are all broke but I used some tape on the inside to hold it in and like you say the control panel stays in place.