I'm going nuts here.

I've already pumped more money into this truck than its worth.

For the last 2 days the suburban makes very loud noise when starting in the morning or after sitting for multiple hours.

10-20 seconds after starting the engine, it smooths out. The engine does have the lifter tick but wherever these new noises are coming from disappear.

I brought the truck to my mechanic and left it overnight so he could re create the noise.

He just called and told me he thinks the engine is shot. Says the noise is coming from the bottom at start up and although it does smooth out after a few seconds, the engine is no good.

To me, it sounds like whatever oil that should remain in the engine after sitting is not there.

He changed the oil 1500 miles ago and I'm sure used a cheap oil filter.

Do you guys think the oil filter drain back valve could be bad?

The oil pressure is fine, NO Check engine lights, and other than the lifter noise, the truck runs normal after warming up.

Please give me some advice.

 

10-20 seconds is long time for bare oil rattle. It happens sometimes. Yes the drain back valve can be trashed, thus use premium oil filters always.


I use syn oils and have never had the problem.


MY denali had 200K and it would rattle because it was old and wore out. I ended up using thicker oil, a Band-Aid over cancer.


How many miles on your engine?

 

Engine has 141K. It's not a bare metal to metal sound. Just significantly louder start than usual.

Once the oil gets moving, it is fine.

 

My advice is to run fully syn like royal purple even step up in weight. Keep rpms lower etc. I have used cammed down my race motor in my 70 road runner and have run thicker syn oil. It got me 50K on a loose built race engine in mild tune before I rebuilt it.


It works. Start up is the absolute worst time for any engine. that why most race motors are dry sump and pre pressurize prior to starting. Bearings take an un real beating at dry startup. SYn oil will leave a better film and thicker will allow the pump to pressurize the bottom end faster. Its mu opinion your engine is likely on borrowed time. My denali started getting loose around 150K, I started using RP and high end filters. She lasted unitl 200k. It was the 6.0

 

Thanks so much.

Will follow your advice. I am not prepared to throw more money at this car.

The car calls for 5w30. What should I ask for, 10W30?

If I could get 50K miles I would be overjoyed

 

Warmer temp coming up soon (where do you live) I would suggest 10w40 then when it gets cooler drop to 10w30 The 5w and 10w nomenclature designates cold flow characteristics. With the higher heat coming your engine being a bit loose could prolly stand for a heavier weight normal so 40, 10w40


The last few miles on my Denali I was using 20w50 royal purple


The other thing I would do is make sure your cooling system is up to snuff.
No great than a 50/50 and it ALWAYS helps to use water wetter or royal purple ICE. It works and does drop temps in almost every car I have ever seen it in, always 5-15 degree drop in temps. Its a cheap 10 dollar investment. It is the first thing I do to my cars when I buy them.

 

I live on Long Island near NYC.

Will definitely take your advice.

 

Went to pick up the truck last night and the engine is toast.

Making a ton of noise and NOT smoothing out.

Service Engine soon light came on and is seeing multiple misfires. P0300 code.

I left it with the mechanic. Going to look into an engine replacement or just junk it.

 

Sorry brother. Plenty of good engines to be found for cheap

 

This whole situation is crazy.

I bought the truck from a guy in the area in December for $3800. Did a ton of research on the car before buying it. Ran a carfax that showed the truck had been meticulously maintained its entire life.

2 weeks after I buy it, the transmission died and needed a complete rebuild. We were out of state visiting friends at the time and had to leave the car in North Carolina. Complete rebuild done with a 3 year/36,000 mile warranty. Also had a tune up done and replaced a faulty EGR valve because the SES light had come on. That cost me $3700. Plus the expense of a rental for the remainder of the trip and airfare and hotel to fly down to pick the car up a week and a half later. (Tranny blew around the holidays and work schedules were impacted)

So, now I'm into a 17 year old truck for $7600.00 Approx.

I'm really torn here. Part of me says to walk away and eat the loss. The other half feels like I'm so far into this, it would be dumb to lose all that $ with nothing to show. And the truck basically has a new transmission.

Any guidance? What would you do?