Hi guys, I did a complete tune-up. AC Delco plugs, cap and rotor. Then new wires, I think these were Bosch. I also had a small leak at the collector for the headers to exhaust pipe. I did a compression test, #8 cyl. was a bit low. I ran a bottle of Seafoam in the gas too. This was all about 3 weeks ago. Now occasionally, I get the check engine light flashing at idle, mostly when driving slower speeds around town.Hi way speeds are OK. My buddy at the parts store thinks it could be the fuel regulator and / or the injector spider. At my local parts store, which is O'Rielly's, the injector kit was about $350.00 or so,if I remember right. Let me know if any of this info helps. Don

 

I call around and find one for 324.00 with a lifetime war. and it will be in Wed. and also order top half gasket set with it. Going to start on it this weekend, do anyone have anything I need to know about doing this as to watch out for something or another ideal. With 180,000 mile on it, it been a great running truck and this is the first major thing done to this engine other than change water pump, new fuel pump and change oil every 3500 mile, and running straight pipe without cat. better gas mileage, and more power. got my money worth out of it.
Any help will help, this will be my first for the top half overhaul.
Thank Mark
I will post again like during the repair and after

 

Well to let you know spent close to 450.00 on the fuel injection spider and new plug and wire........and guess that didn't help me out on the PO300 code.....and now trying to see what next to fix this thing. Do anyone have an ideal about this? please let me know. At one time read PO304 amd I replace plug and wire and now back to PO300
Thank Mark

 

i haven't read Thru all of this treads post but you may try these if you have not already..
http://www.obd-codes.com/p0300

 

On my van I have been watching everything real close. Here is something I notice ed.
When I first tart the truck in the morning it runs good no miss till it warms up I think. The oil preasure when firs started cold is at 40 or little above when driving its at 60 asonce the temp gets up to 215 which is the highest it gets the preassure will drop to 20 at idle and not go much over 40 when driving. Does yours do this? Is this normal? My Dodge 2500 van with 5.9 8 cylinder. Engine never moves from 45-50.
One more thing on the history of my vehicle when I bought it it was a fleet vehicle for an electrictrician Company it only had 49000 miles with spun bearings. The Guy I bought it from Replaced bearings but did notknow what caused the spun bearings so what ever caused it was not addressed. Any thoughts?

 

Well here more update.....replace fuel injection, spark plug with new wire,both oxygen @ motor, and it still run the same before I start.so just giving you update on my end.

 

After more parts being add and no change in the motor or the PO300, I add 2 oxygen sensor, new crankshalf sensor, cap, rotor on top of the new spark plug and wires, fuel injection, seafoam and it still rough idle smooth out at 1500 rpm in park, in drive or take of missing but at 2000rpm smooth out again but lack power and feel it running on 6 cyl. instead the 8. Hope someone can help me here and knows lot of other with the same as me.
Thank Mark

 

A code P0300 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:

• Faulty spark plugs or wires
• Faulty coil (pack)
• Faulty oxygen sensor(s)
• Faulty fuel <nobr style="color: darkblue; font-weight: bold; font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;" id="itxt_nobr_12_0">injector</nobr>(s)
• Burned exhaust <nobr style="color: darkblue; font-weight: bold; font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;" id="itxt_nobr_13_0">valve</nobr>
• Faulty catalytic converter(s)
• Stuck/blocked EGR valve / passages
• Faulty camshaft position sensor
• Defective computer

compression check will tell you about exhaust, intake or rings.
pull egr valve, gasket is cheap

 

Ok, today did the comp. test all 8 cyl. reading at 155 to 180, below are the parts that been replace: fuel injection
spark plug
plug wire
cap and rotor
2 oxygen sensor
crankshalf sensor
1 can sea foam
did comp. test

So far still got to do the EGR, camshalf sensor and boy each parts got a high price tag to it..........so no one know what it the trouble with the PO300 not evening where I took the truck to have it fix and all they tell me to trade it in for a new model cause you got to many mile on it, or you need to have the motor overhaul, told them to bit my white butt and said to go back to training not tell us what to do with our truck. Boy that **** me off about that part........if a man know how to care for their truck or car as in baby it like a child and then the kid turn out bad your going to trade him or her in for a new model too....But sooner or later I'm going pen this fix in place, then the next time this happen I will know what to do then and save the buck also, My wife love her Tahoe as it is and don't want a new one like she said it been a great truck from when we got it and not one things went wrong until now. We change oil every 3000 mile, wash and wax it, and we travel with every where.

I know this was to long I shut up now.
Mark

 

Mark, remove the ERG valve, then clean the valve and all passages, buy a new gasket than remount. also you need to clear the codes after you do any work or replace any parts. Did you unplug the fuel pump relay to do the compression check?? Not sure but that could give a false reading.