vf171

I have done the obligatory search and come up empty handed.

I have a 2002 3/4 ton Suburban and i tried to change the rear brakes this weekend. No dice. I have disc service brakes and drum e brakes. The first question i have is how do you get the caliper slide bolts out? Well how do i get the TOP slide bolt out? Even if i flip the caliper up i can not get near enough torque on it and hold the caliper to keep it from moving.

I went ahead and laid the caliper aside and focused on removing the drum pads, again, no dice. In order to get to the clips holding the pads in place i have to remove the axle shaft and the bearing hub?!?!?! Got the axle shaft out but i couldn't get the hub off. I removed the retaining ring, key, and adjusting nut but i could not get the hub to move, even tapping it with a brass hammer. I read the Chilton manual to make sure i did not miss something but it looks like i did it right. Do i have beat the hub off? And will i need to replace the inner bearing seal?

Oh yea, when i went to get the new pads for the drum e brake they kept trying to give me a one piece pad. I asked them to look up the 3500 Silverado pads and they match what i have on my Suburban? Also the 2001 and 2003 2500 Suburbans match what i have on my truck. I have 2 separate pads not a big "C" shaped pad. What gives? Do i have a one ton axle under my truck?

Need some help guys.

vf171

Anyone?

vf171

No one has changed the rear brakes on a 3/4 ton burb? Am i asking a stupid question? I honestly have searched but could not find anything talking about this. Anyone have any pters on how to get the rear hubs off?

RacerX

You shouldnt have to remove any hub to do rear brakes. If this has disc brakes the caliper should be all you have to remove. Even if you wanted to do the E brake inside the rotor there should be anything but maybe a retaining clip or bolts holding the caliper mounting bracket from preventing you from doing that.

Let me look it up and see if I can help you here.

Take a photo so I can see what you are looking at there.
BTW Those Haynes manuals suck.

vf171

RacerX, thanks for the reply. I can change the rear brakes on most vehicles blindfolded but this one has me stumped. How do i get the pads out without taking the upper caliper slide bolt out?

And for the e brake, there is a clip i have to remove and it is impossible to rotate 90 degrees with the hub on.

Appreciate the help.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/29673269@N05/6036790396/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/29673269@N05/6036231425/http://www.flickr.com/photos/29673269@N05/6036231425/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/29673269@N05/, on Flickr

vf171

Anyone?

EinST

That's a full-floating axle setup? You're going to need a J-2222-C wheel bearing wrench. I lack the resources beyond that but the poster Fortune50 in the GM-Trucks.com thread 2002 Sierra Brake Job - GM-Trucks.com seems to know his stuff.

RacerX

J2222C? Lets see what that looks like?

Looks like the other website says what I thought you might have to do when I saw these photos this morning. IT says to remove the axles shafts. I wouldnt have thought of that but your shoes are inaccessible with the axle shaft in place.

vf171

Thanks EinST and RacerX, i did pull the axle shafts. You can see the exposed bearing in the second photo. I will lok into the bearing puller and the other thread listed as well. Appreciate the help guys. I will post back with any updates to make sure it is documented in here as well.

vf171

Ok, I read the other post and i have done everything it says. I did not need the special tool for the adjustjng nut though. Typically they are only hand torqued, same as trailer hubs.
Like i said, i had the axle shaft, retaining ring, key, and adjusting nut removed.

I will have to look again but i am not sure how removing the lug studs will help? At this point i will look at anything though! I need to get this done. I have at least a couple days worth of projects to do on my Ram too.

Thanks again guys. At least i know i am headed down the right path.