Ok getting closer to solving this mystery. Changed negative battery cable, problem persists.

The problem is that the starter will not spin when key is turned. I do not have a chip key. I have an 04 Tahoe 4.8. All lights and guages are fine I am not getting voltage at the starter in the RARE instances when this happens. I tightened all connections, If I put voltage directly to the starter it turns. I am going to start changing parts now. Battery cable was 30.00, Ignition switch is 50, that's next. My problem is that I do not know how to get the steering column apart to access the ignition switch. For the life of me I cant figure it out. I do not have a repair manual tho, can someone give me this information?

Thanks in advance

Vince F

 

There is some variance in this thread but otherwise it is pretty consistent. Although my 1998 GMC Sierra is a manual transmission, there is a Neutral Safety Switch or O'Reilly called it a clutch starter safety switch (for the manual transmission). There is a corresponding part for the automatic transmission. I took my truck while troubleshooting to them to ask what this module was on the firewall on the clutch pedal linkage. He looked it up and told me. While there was no luck getting my truck to turn over so that he could run the battery test, he yelled in for me to let up on the clutch just a tiny bit while trying to turn it over......VROOM. It started right up. He showed me on the floor that the switch is getting hung up on the shaft it slides on. It starts 100% of the time now if I do the trick or manually reset the switch with my hand before cranking. Now...I need pictures of a normal one and a video of how to either replace the switch if it is broken or clean up the contacts because it is pretty gunky with dust under there.

Wires are tight
Battery is good
Starter sounds fine (when it actually turns over)

*As of today, I have sprayed some degreaser and contact cleaner on the linkage and switch and wiped it with paper towels to clean it up* It immediately solved the problem with the vehicle not starting with the clutch all the way depressed. I have driven it 150 miles since and started and shut off the engine many times with zero problems.*

 

Sounds like maybe just spraying some contact cleaner on the switch plunger may free it up. Otherwise you may have to remove the switch and take apart, if possible, to clean it. If all else fails, you will need to replace it.

 

Hi all,

I'm new to this forum. We have had intermittent starting issues for the past two years, but yesterday we were on a long road trip and it would not start twice for us.

We took it to our mechanic a year ago with this issue and they could not recreate the problem and told us it could be thousands of dollars just to find the problem.

My question to all of you is: have you had remote starters installed in your vehicles? I'm wondering if there is a correlation as we only seemed to start having this problem once we had a remote starter installed - conincidence?

 

Guys, from my experience, if the Neutral Safety Switch is corroded inside, when you move through the gears, the indicator would be wrong for that position. If I might suggest, get the service manual and follow the ignition circuit. For example, does power get to the coil/starter when the key is turned to the start position. The manual is a must for these types of issues. What about a bad ignition switch? Not the one you put your key into (lock), but the switch that is mounted to the steering column.

 

Go back to basic's...........take off your battery cables, use battery cable spray cleaner, let it soak while it foams, clean with water and re-install. Don't forget to spray the battery connection as well. This is a must especially if your vehicle is factory equipped with the double Positive + cable for second battery. Stay away from dealer's, all they want is their diagnosis fee !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.
Trust me, mine did it just when you least expect it, now it's fixed. JMHO.

 

Changed ignition switch. Problem persists. Can someone supply a wiring diagram to me for this 2004 TAHOE 4.8? I Guess neutral saftey switch is next. Thanks in advance.

 

I have had this problem on and off for 6 months now. I have had a new starter and a new ignition switch installed. Does anyone ever figure out what the problem is?

 

2chevs,

There are a lot of things it could be. In my case it was the starter ( or more likely starter solonoid) even though it had tested good when I removed it and took it in, and tested good for the precious owner. When I changed it my probelem went away. If you read this whole thread I think post #39 I detailed how I troubleshot mine. Someone else posted up a way to jumper so that you don't have to run a wire/remote start button like I did. I know it isn't much help but all I can suggest is that you start ruling things out until the problem shows itself. Are you getting power to your starter solonoid when you turn the key?

 

2004 Tahoe. I have had similar problems when the engine is hot and the temperature outside is over 85f, winter time no problems.
I have eliminated the starter as the main problem (replaced 2 times then jumped directly to it and it cranked).Battery ok. Checked ground for corrosion with ohm meter seems OK. One mechanic says either netrual safety switch $20+labor or ECM, $750(can this be?) other mechanic says no way on ECM. Got an engine light 30 days after plug and wire replacement and code says ignition(knock) sensors(2 @ $30 ea plus labor) dont know if that would cause the anamoly. I carry a water can and speed up cooling the engine down by pouring it over the engine cover away from electrical components.
I dont want to throw money at it and replace everything so if this can help us find a solution I would appreciate some feed back.