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2007 Tahoe, replacing driver's side valve cover

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Old December 12th, 2013 | 7:20 PM
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Default 2007 Tahoe, replacing driver's side valve cover

Hi all,

I'm going to replace my driver's side valve cover in hopes that the new PCV valve will help reduce oil consumption. I'm barely making it to my 7500 mile oil change interval w/o the engine oil low message appearing. I don't think it will do much but I'm secretly hoping it will resolve my oil consumption, lol.

But my question is, when I go to put the new valve cover and gasket on, do I need to apply any sealant or do I just put new gasket in place and bolt in the new valve cover? Thanks!

Any tips for de-install and install would be greatly appreciated! I'm a little worried about how to properly disconnect the main connector for the coil pack. My main concern is the long loop of plastic on the main connector of the coil pack, not sure how to take it out properly. But I haven't taken a good look at it either, hopefully it wont give me trouble.
Old December 12th, 2013 | 7:54 PM
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unplug the connector to the ignition coil feed
remove the spark plug boots from the coils
remove the 3 screws for the coil packs
remove the bolts for the valve cover


the new cover comes with a new gasket.


The gm accepted rate of oil consumption is1 qt 2000 mi. Tow or drive hard and it will be more.
Old December 13th, 2013 | 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by tech2
unplug the connector to the ignition coil feed
remove the spark plug boots from the coils
remove the 3 screws for the coil packs
remove the bolts for the valve cover


the new cover comes with a new gasket.


The gm accepted rate of oil consumption is1 qt 2000 mi. Tow or drive hard and it will be more.
Thanks for the help!
Old December 13th, 2013 | 1:06 PM
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Here are the specs for the job as well..

Install the valve rocker arm cover.
Tighten the bolts to 12 N·m (106 lb in).

Apply threadlock to the threads of the ignition coil bracket studs.
Position the ignition coil bracket onto the rocker cover.
Install the ignition coil bracket studs
Tighten the studs to 12 N·m (106 lb in).
Old December 13th, 2013 | 4:15 PM
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Originally Posted by in2pro
Here are the specs for the job as well..

Install the valve rocker arm cover.
Tighten the bolts to 12 N·m (106 lb in).

Apply threadlock to the threads of the ignition coil bracket studs.
Position the ignition coil bracket onto the rocker cover.
Install the ignition coil bracket studs
Tighten the studs to 12 N·m (106 lb in).
Thank you!
Old December 20th, 2013 | 10:40 AM
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Got the parts yesterday from GMpartsdirect, all parts ordered were correct. I was a little worried about getting the wrong parts, and them all being special order that I couldn't return them. I did verify the part numbers with them thru email as they suggest.

So I just finished putting in the new drivers side valve cover, and new PCV tube on the driver's side as well. I was a little worried, the old gasket has was flat while the new one was tapered to a point. Maybe the new one was tapered as well, but became flat after being on the car for 7 years? I don't know. But all went well, no issues, except one minor one. One of the bolts to hold down the coil bracket was kinda tight, I was scared I may strip the bolt into the new valve cover, but just took my time and slowly worked it and removed it back out, and tightened it down again, seems to be fine.

I topped off the oil, seemed to be at 5 - 5.5 quarts. So only time will tell if this new PCV valve will help with my oil consumption. My next step if this doesn't help is to start using Lucas synthetic oil stabilizer. 5 quarts of my 5w-30 Castrol full syn. and 1 quart of the Lucas syn. oil stabilizer.

Went for a test drive, and I don't know if its psychological or not, but the car seems to idle a bit better, and it seems to have better throttle response?! I don't know, maybe its just me really wanting the solution to my oil consumption problem to be the new PCV valve! lol!

Now I've found another issue while working on the Tahoe today. I was reading the thread about the trans oil cooler lines leaking, and I remembered seeing the same leak spots when I changed out my serpentine belt and a/c belt back in Aug. of this year, and I guess mine are leaking as well. I don't think replacing those lines are something I can tackle myself. May head to the stealership to see how much they are going to take me for. lol!
Old December 20th, 2013 | 10:56 AM
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Good to hear it went well
Its very possible the new PCV and hose have made it idle better...

Here is a write up I did a while back on adding the Aux transmission cooler, take a look at it and see if it helps you decide if addressing the lines is something you could take on...
https://chevroletforum.com/forum/tah...install-35484/
Old December 21st, 2013 | 4:35 PM
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Thanks for the link to your write up! That made me even more sure that I don't think I could tackle that job, lol. If I had a lift or if my equilibrium in my head wasn't so shakey I would give it a try, but I can't work too long under my vehicle looking upwards, I end up getting nauseated. lol! I may just pay my technician buddy to do it. The trans cooler you installed is super tiny compared to what came with my 07 Tahoe. My trans cooler is covers just about as much area as my radiator does, lol. I wonder since yours is called an Auxillary trans cooler that's why its smaller?

Thanks again for your help!
Old December 21st, 2013 | 4:56 PM
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Are you sure you're not looking at the air conditioning condenser?
Old December 21st, 2013 | 6:56 PM
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Typerod I feel your pain, I have the same problem with vertigo something I just discovered earlier the year working on wife's minivan exhaust...
As shark pointed out, there are layers of radiators... The one on the engine side is the engine cooling system radiator, the one you see from the outside is the AC condenser..and in my case the smaller one in front of the condenser is the auxiliary transmission cooler that ties into the engine radiator...


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