Factory Trans cooler install
August 25th, 2010, 2:22 PM
#1
Administrator
Thread Starter
Factory Trans cooler install
Well I ordered and got my factory transmission cooler kit...( GM Parts Direct)
I snapped a few pictures of the process, I will say the included instructions are well for the most part useless, they cover pretty much "what to do" but don't cover the "how to do" (They assume you have total access to the tranny and nothing is in the way, that never happens)
First off:
Do it on a cold engine, you will be working intimately around the catalytic converter.
Disconnect the battery, the tranny lines run right next to the starter and starter battery cable, shorting out to the starter while running the steel line is very possible.
You will also be working around and bumping into the front air bag impact sensor.
Tape up the ends of the new lines to prevent grease, dirt and anti rust pookie that covers the frame from getting into the pipe ends.
Check to see if you will be able to disconnect the upper return line to the transmission. I have small hands and was barely able to get into the very tight spot and only had very limited dexterity and only one hand will be able to get in nearly blind.
This is very important as there is a small lock spring that hold the line in, you might be able to pop it loose but getting it back on is a MF'ing CS'ing challenge with limited use of one hand. (if you don't have great patients, have it installed by the dealer)
Install your lines first, get them positioned and in the basic area they need to be in before removing any existing lines. It may be a bit crowed but it really helps understanding where the lines need to run as the instructions don't tell you.
This is important as you don't want them crossing and rubbing on each other or anything else.
The shorter line that replaces the upper line is easy enough, its the longer nearly 5 foot line that requires carnal rubix cube knowledge.
I found that getting the long line in its position along side the tranny and then bringing it forward angling toward the drivers side allowed me to get the nearly 18inches of line up and into the pass thru to the front grill.
Getting the long line in requires patients and some clearance under the vehicle, take your time, it requires some effort but should not require any bending or forcing.
The only Items I had to remove were:
lower engine splash guard ( 4 bolts)
lower grill mesh ( I removed the upper screws holding the front fascia to gain access to the release points of the grill mesh. )
Heat shield on transmission next to exhaust.
The last connection I made was the long return line to the transmission, I waited till last on this to ensure that all lines were routed correctly and all clips and supports were connected in the right places.
It took me about 2 hrs to get it installed, its for the most part was a fun project if you are into doing it yourself.
The kit did not include the 2 quarts of DextronVI tranny fluid, I only needed about 10-12oz (little more then half quart) but wanted to be covered.
The job was not overly messy just be prepared when you disconnect the long line at the tranny, I had already disconnected the line at the top of the radiator so it would not siphon fluid from the radiator cooler. I recommend blowing out the line prior to removing it from the frame so that it does not dribble everywhere as you are removing it.
I snapped a few pictures of the process, I will say the included instructions are well for the most part useless, they cover pretty much "what to do" but don't cover the "how to do" (They assume you have total access to the tranny and nothing is in the way, that never happens)
First off:
Do it on a cold engine, you will be working intimately around the catalytic converter.
Disconnect the battery, the tranny lines run right next to the starter and starter battery cable, shorting out to the starter while running the steel line is very possible.
You will also be working around and bumping into the front air bag impact sensor.
Tape up the ends of the new lines to prevent grease, dirt and anti rust pookie that covers the frame from getting into the pipe ends.
Check to see if you will be able to disconnect the upper return line to the transmission. I have small hands and was barely able to get into the very tight spot and only had very limited dexterity and only one hand will be able to get in nearly blind.
This is very important as there is a small lock spring that hold the line in, you might be able to pop it loose but getting it back on is a MF'ing CS'ing challenge with limited use of one hand. (if you don't have great patients, have it installed by the dealer)
Install your lines first, get them positioned and in the basic area they need to be in before removing any existing lines. It may be a bit crowed but it really helps understanding where the lines need to run as the instructions don't tell you.
This is important as you don't want them crossing and rubbing on each other or anything else.
The shorter line that replaces the upper line is easy enough, its the longer nearly 5 foot line that requires carnal rubix cube knowledge.
I found that getting the long line in its position along side the tranny and then bringing it forward angling toward the drivers side allowed me to get the nearly 18inches of line up and into the pass thru to the front grill.
Getting the long line in requires patients and some clearance under the vehicle, take your time, it requires some effort but should not require any bending or forcing.
The only Items I had to remove were:
lower engine splash guard ( 4 bolts)
lower grill mesh ( I removed the upper screws holding the front fascia to gain access to the release points of the grill mesh. )
Heat shield on transmission next to exhaust.
The last connection I made was the long return line to the transmission, I waited till last on this to ensure that all lines were routed correctly and all clips and supports were connected in the right places.
It took me about 2 hrs to get it installed, its for the most part was a fun project if you are into doing it yourself.
The kit did not include the 2 quarts of DextronVI tranny fluid, I only needed about 10-12oz (little more then half quart) but wanted to be covered.
The job was not overly messy just be prepared when you disconnect the long line at the tranny, I had already disconnected the line at the top of the radiator so it would not siphon fluid from the radiator cooler. I recommend blowing out the line prior to removing it from the frame so that it does not dribble everywhere as you are removing it.
Last edited by in2pro; August 25th, 2010 at 2:32 PM.
August 25th, 2010, 2:58 PM
#4
Administrator
Thread Starter
Nothing big, its a pop up camper, about 2400lbs but when we went through the mountains in Colorado back in June the trans temp was regularly reaching up to the 220's+. Fortunately they were only temporary spikes but enough to convince me that extra cooling would be a benefit....
August 25th, 2010, 4:36 PM
#6
Administrator
Thread Starter
Yeah I should have collected more data (wrote it down) on temps before install and after....The trips I have made today city driving, in OD, outside temp about 92 the fluid temp has been about 150F. I will have to check it next week when I am in stop and go traffic coming home from work as it is normally around 180F.
August 26th, 2010, 7:47 AM
#7
CF Senior Member
on ours it will get up to 170 - 190 degrees if we drive for a long time or on the highway for 30 miles or so. But this was with outside temps around 100 degrees
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August 26th, 2010, 8:03 AM
#8
What helped my install
I also just put one in my vehicle. When I first went to the dealer they tried to sell me the parts for $193 individually. Left and checked around and found out there is a kit. Dealer had it for $99 and when I went back to get it I knew the guy behind the counter so he gave it to me for $87. Just don't pay the $193
What really helped me was making a small tool out of a coat hanger. Take about a six inch piece of coat hanger wire and file one end into a point. This assists you to use the point to slide under the clip to remove it and made all the clip removals a breeze. You can bend the coat hanger however you need to release the clip on the transmission and it popped right off.
Tom
What really helped me was making a small tool out of a coat hanger. Take about a six inch piece of coat hanger wire and file one end into a point. This assists you to use the point to slide under the clip to remove it and made all the clip removals a breeze. You can bend the coat hanger however you need to release the clip on the transmission and it popped right off.
Tom
August 26th, 2010, 9:43 AM
#9
Administrator
Thread Starter
I got mine from GM Parts direct for $61+ shipping, I ended up using a set of very fine point tweezers to do the same of getting up under the clip, it was getting the clip back into place that was the challenge that and not having it go springing off and getting lost....
August 26th, 2010, 12:50 PM
#10
Administrator
Thread Starter
I hooked up my camper today as I have been needing to drag it around for a few miles since I repacked the bearings and replaced the seals a few weeks back, and needed to run the grease in... towing for about a 50 mile round trip doing 60mph in 3, with tow/haul engaged I never exceed 167F, I got on it a few times. There is one small caveat, its only about 83F out today so far, and not the normal 100+...
None the less I think the cooler is doing its job easily lowering the temp by about 10-15 degreees....
None the less I think the cooler is doing its job easily lowering the temp by about 10-15 degreees....