Exchanged all the relays around and still nothing.

 

Does anyone know what wire should be hot OUT of the ignition in RUN (not yellow)?

I have:
wht-5v
pnk/blk-
red/wht- hot always 12v
blk or brown-
Pnk-

 

Some confusion in the diagrams I have.
They show 2 Pink wires coming out of the ign. sw.
One page shows
Pink should be the hot in RUN and START
BUT...
On another page of the diagrams it shows PINK as a ground connection in the BCM,
There must be a typo, one should be pink, and the other should be pink/black. <grrrr>
The Pink (or pnk/blk) wire goes to the BCM and does a "pass-thru" coming out as a yellow wire to the RUN/CRNK relay
My description earlier did not include this detail, I was trying to keep it simple to read.


Brown- should be hot in ASSCY and RUN

 

Weird, You need to find that RUN/CRNK relay grounding point.

Did you try to start the motor when you had this jumper'd?

 

Did you try to start the motor when you had this jumper'd?[/QUOTE]

Yes I tried that. No luck.

 

Finally able to get a probe small enough to check ign swi while installed. You are correct:
pnk-hot RUN & Start
brn-hot ACC & RUN

So I think the ignition switch is good.

 

Bummer, I thought that should have worked.

Do you have continuity between the RUN/CRNK & STRTR relay coils on the "ground side" pins?
I still think it's a grounding issue. Anytime I've had open grounds I've seen some really weird symptoms.
Did you check the fuses in the instrument panel fuse block?

I'm running out of ideas....

 

No continuity between any of the pins of those two relays. They both go to different plugs on the back of the fuse/relay box. Not sure where the relays are supposed to be grounded at. (Block, firewall, etc)
Inside fuses are all good too.

 

What could have changed when you charged the battery after the first try????

There's something wrong here, pick one or all of the following...
My diagram is not correct for your model (2008 vs.2011),
The continuity testing method you used was faulty (try a test light: battery POS to the relay coil ground sockets),
The fuse block is messed-up (fix it with a bigger hammer),

Re-boot the computer (BCM), disconnect the battery for a couple of minutes.
Does your model have the theft deterrent system? Maybe you need to 're-learn' the key after the battery died when you first tried to start the engine.

Try the jumpers on the RUN/CRNK, and the STRTR relays with the key in RUN. If that doesn't work; maybe the ECM got fried????? maybe the theft deterrent system would keep this from working????

The relays: STRTR, FUEL PUMP, REAR DEFOG, RUN/CRNK.. all use the same ground via---Fuse Block Connector-X2 Pin-N5 black wire to ground
The connectors on the fuse block are arranged:
X1--X2--X3
X4--X5
with the aux battery studs on the X1, X4 end.

 

So I finally found the problem. It was a bad ground connection. I took off one by one the grounds and wire brushed where they mount and lug. The one on the drivers side near the front of the engine block was the bad one. I think there was too much paint on the block when I first connected it. Started right up after cleaning it.
So frustrating that it was such a simple fix... and a week of working on it.

Thank you you everyone for your help!