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2010 tahoe/suburban skid plate part numbers

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Old September 30th, 2010, 11:26 PM
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Btw are the part numbers for a suburban or tahoe or are they interchangeable? If not could your dealer specify for each vehicle?
Old September 30th, 2010, 11:43 PM
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Originally Posted by blueinterceptor
Btw are the part numbers for a suburban or tahoe or are they interchangeable? If not could your dealer specify for each vehicle?
Parts explosion I have in front of me says LT Truck Chevrolet 2010 K - 57C - I;m assuming that the K is the "K Frame" Blazer/Tahoe/Suburban in the 1500 variety. But I'll ask.

Yours is a 2010 Tahoe, correct?

Dealer didn't like it much when i mentioned the "J" word ;-)
Old October 1st, 2010, 6:00 AM
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I need a set for of each.

Thank you
Old October 1st, 2010, 9:26 AM
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The 2.5" level kit and larger diameters tires will make a big difference, this is how the Z71 package should have come. Also remove the lower black valence on the bumper for more clearance to get close to the Z71 bumper clearance.

I love my Z71, and I have been a japanese/euro car maker fan since I started driving. IMO Chevy/GM has improved drastically. When I was shopping in 07, the Z71 LT3 had everything I wanted, looked good, and was priced right.
Old October 1st, 2010, 11:02 AM
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No where did I mis-think the 07+ tahoe was an off roader... I (had) a '04 Wrangler Rubicon on 35" tires for that.... (sold it, since I spent most of my summer on the jet skis)...

It's just too big, no clearance, the TJ destroys it off road... but... the Tahoe will cruise at 80 and it's a big comfy couch... TJ on 35s.... not so much couch like at 80...

I love the tahoe look, and it tows AMAZING... does what I wanted... and in snow it's good too... (PA).
Old October 1st, 2010, 11:53 AM
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i went to the dealer today and ordered the plates. thanks for yor help


the first number for the transfer case showed up as invalid and later the number was changed the number came up for a seatbelt. the first number should be 15049809. you will also need 8 bolts for the 2 plates (4ea) they are the same.
Old October 1st, 2010, 5:28 PM
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Originally Posted by blueinterceptor
i went to the dealer today and ordered the plates. thanks for yor help


the first number for the transfer case showed up as invalid and later the number was changed the number came up for a seatbelt. the first number should be 15049809. you will also need 8 bolts for the 2 plates (4ea) they are the same.
Yea, I did the same and he found the part number error and confirmed the Tahoe and Suburban plates are the same parts. Part numbers for the bolts are 11518341 $6.79 each from the dealer. Ouch - I'm getting the bolts elsewhere. Spec is hardened bolt, 10mm X 1.5 Thread pitch X 25mm length, self tapping.

Glad I was able to help.

In for the lift Kit on Tuesday then evaluate the need for bigger wheels and tires. Been doing some research on that. I measured the front clearance on a stock one just like mine and an LTZ which comes with the 20 inch rims. Problem is they put 55 sidewall (5.95 inch) tires on the 20's as stock versus 70 (7 inch) sidewalls on the LT. Net gain at the spoiler is only about a quarter inch. Haven't yet determined if I can put a taller sidewall on the 20's and clear everything in the wheel wells. But, where there is a will there is a way.
Old October 1st, 2010, 7:41 PM
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ordered stuff today.

i put some bilsteins on today too. what a difference. tires reallly hug the road and no body roll. stiffer ride. i like it.
Old October 1st, 2010, 10:59 PM
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There's a reason the Z/71 comes w/ 17" wheels. Low profile tires just aren't suited for off-roading.

BTW, the owner's manual recommends removing the lower valence/spoiler before going off-road.
Old October 2nd, 2010, 12:52 AM
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Originally Posted by 73shark
There's a reason the Z/71 comes w/ 17" wheels. Low profile tires just aren't suited for off-roading.

BTW, the owner's manual recommends removing the lower valence/spoiler before going off-road.
Z71 is stock 18's I think, at least that's what tirerack shows. Didn't see the recommendation on taking off the black air dam. But found therre is no need though, going off-road or up a high curb will take it off for you ;-). Removed mine earlier this week. Not too much trouble except that you need an 8 year old or an orangatang to crawl or reach under there to pop it off at the center. Normal human can't fit for the low clearance. I'll stay with the 17's and the biggest tire it will take if the 17's don't look dwarfed after lifting it and the lift gives me enough clearance. Benefit of going to the 20's would be to gain an inch and a hafl of ground to frame clearance assuming equal wall sized tires.

Told the wife tonight that I'll get it suited for hunting or it will get gone!


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