2012 Tahoe Detached Rear Defroster Wire
#3
This happened on our 2005 Yukon, and I fixed it. I bought the SPECIAL Loctite 2-part conductive epoxy repair kit online for this, could not find it ANYWHERE in town (and I worked for a sister company of Loctite). First stretch the coiled wire a little (this is a GM design flaw, too-tight coil puts too much strain on the tab when the window-only is opened). After fixing, I told Mrs. Cusser to ONLY open the entire hatch, never just the window portion.
If you don't do this repair correctly as stated above - it won't be successful. Note that the product for fixing the defroster grid itself is a completely different product.
And other brands besides GM also have the little tab break off.
If you don't do this repair correctly as stated above - it won't be successful. Note that the product for fixing the defroster grid itself is a completely different product.
And other brands besides GM also have the little tab break off.
#4
2012 Tahoe Detached Rear Defroster Wire
Thanks rednucleus and cusser. I am new to auto electronics, so before reattaching, what is the best way to check amps and volts in the circuit?
I have a multimeter.
I have a multimeter.
#5
Great question, bu not for me. I don't have a wiring diagram, so I don't know which wire would have positive voltage when the defroster switch is pushed.
#7
I used the tab repair kit on my '11. It lasted a few years and came off again. This time I heated up the tab and melted soldier to it and stuck it on hot, so it melted to the grid. Then I used the conductive grid repair paint around the tab to fully ''connect'' the tab to the grid. It's been a year now and many, many remote starts over the winter as the rear window always comes on when remote started and so far, so good.
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#8
Administrator
The important part before you reattach the tab to the glass is to stretch the coil out considerably so that it is not really tight when the window is raised. The coiled cord should be very slack when the window is closed.
#9