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2013 5.3L PPV Tahoe Idle Shake Please Help

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Old October 24th, 2019, 12:20 PM
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Default 2013 5.3L PPV Tahoe Idle Shake Please Help

Hello All,
I have recently picked up a new to me PPV out of northern Michigan.

I have read many may idle shake posts but none lead me down a good path or things to check or at least i haven't done yet. I got the 20 pages of service records of from the shop that took care of truck the whole time. Nothing unusual other than they replaced the fuel pump around 40k.

Truck: 2013 5.3 PPV 2WD 141,520 miles
Overall the drivabilty is good and fuel economy is okay about 13-14 combine. I think that is kind of low but i can deal with that for now. (Maybe reset fuel trims and see what happens)

Conditions Experienced:
Slight shake at idle felt in the truck every 5-10 seconds & felt for 1-2 seconds, when driving no shake is felt
AC can be on or off (sometimes worse when AC is on Full Blast)
Park, Drive, Neutral, or Manual doesn't matter
No misfire Fault Codes
No down stream O2 Fault Codes
No MAP/MAF Fault Codes
No Fuel Pressure Faults or Injector Faults
No others than what is listed below
The truck does have a slight top end tick on the passenger side but quiet on the driver side
Oil pressures are okay

My friend is a mechanic and pulled the codes for me. He couldn't put much time into it but i got a chance to see the O2 sensor read out and the driver side bank is definitely abnormal readings. He told me to do the basics like plugs, wires etc.. Then come back when he an i have more time.

P015B Bank one O2
P219A
P219B

I looked for intake leaks everywhere and spraying brake cleaner looking for an idle bump to detect a leak and then find the cause. I didn't find one. Inspected the exhaust manifold and pipes for cracks and noises none were found other than one manifold bolt head was broke off but looked to be that way for an extended period of time because it was rusted. Checked for coolant in the oil and was okay.
I replaced the air filter it needed one anyway. Cleaned the MAF and throttle body to ensure there was no deposits. changed plugs and wires. replaced the driver and passenger up stream O2 sensors. After it was all done and drove about 20mi Put in a fuel cleaner (redline) in a fresh tank to see if it helps.
the Fuel treatment and new parts seemed to ease the idle shake but it was still present.

Note: Passenger side O2 looked okay dry and black
Driver side O2 looked about the same but more rust color and dry

About 50mi into driving they came back on with more codes and some of the same.
P015A
P015B
P219A
P219B

I took it back to the shop to take a deeper look. Keep in mind i want to fix this the first time and try not to throw parts and this and waste more time and money.
O2 sensor on the driver side functions better than before but still not functioning correctly after replacement so it was either something engine related or Cat related (partially plugged from idle hours).

I was told to replace the CAT but i need to see if it was plugged visually or slightly turned before replacement so i spend 400 on a new Y-pipe. Also, consider a new MAF to ensure its not on the finge of failure.

I have not done any of this yet but will this weekend or the next.

Has anyone experienced something like this and fixed it?

Last edited by State_Blue_Man; October 24th, 2019 at 1:04 PM.
Old March 5th, 2023, 9:41 AM
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Default

Originally Posted by State_Blue_Man
Hello All,
I have recently picked up a new to me PPV out of northern Michigan.

I have read many may idle shake posts but none lead me down a good path or things to check or at least i haven't done yet. I got the 20 pages of service records of from the shop that took care of truck the whole time. Nothing unusual other than they replaced the fuel pump around 40k.

Truck: 2013 5.3 PPV 2WD 141,520 miles
Overall the drivabilty is good and fuel economy is okay about 13-14 combine. I think that is kind of low but i can deal with that for now. (Maybe reset fuel trims and see what happens)

Conditions Experienced:
Slight shake at idle felt in the truck every 5-10 seconds & felt for 1-2 seconds, when driving no shake is felt
AC can be on or off (sometimes worse when AC is on Full Blast)
Park, Drive, Neutral, or Manual doesn't matter
No misfire Fault Codes
No down stream O2 Fault Codes
No MAP/MAF Fault Codes
No Fuel Pressure Faults or Injector Faults
No others than what is listed below
The truck does have a slight top end tick on the passenger side but quiet on the driver side
Oil pressures are okay

My friend is a mechanic and pulled the codes for me. He couldn't put much time into it but i got a chance to see the O2 sensor read out and the driver side bank is definitely abnormal readings. He told me to do the basics like plugs, wires etc.. Then come back when he an i have more time.

P015B Bank one O2
P219A
P219B

I looked for intake leaks everywhere and spraying brake cleaner looking for an idle bump to detect a leak and then find the cause. I didn't find one. Inspected the exhaust manifold and pipes for cracks and noises none were found other than one manifold bolt head was broke off but looked to be that way for an extended period of time because it was rusted. Checked for coolant in the oil and was okay.
I replaced the air filter it needed one anyway. Cleaned the MAF and throttle body to ensure there was no deposits. changed plugs and wires. replaced the driver and passenger up stream O2 sensors. After it was all done and drove about 20mi Put in a fuel cleaner (redline) in a fresh tank to see if it helps.
the Fuel treatment and new parts seemed to ease the idle shake but it was still present.

Note: Passenger side O2 looked okay dry and black
Driver side O2 looked about the same but more rust color and dry

About 50mi into driving they came back on with more codes and some of the same.
P015A
P015B
P219A
P219B

I took it back to the shop to take a deeper look. Keep in mind i want to fix this the first time and try not to throw parts and this and waste more time and money.
O2 sensor on the driver side functions better than before but still not functioning correctly after replacement so it was either something engine related or Cat related (partially plugged from idle hours).

I was told to replace the CAT but i need to see if it was plugged visually or slightly turned before replacement so i spend 400 on a new Y-pipe. Also, consider a new MAF to ensure its not on the finge of failure.

I have not done any of this yet but will this weekend or the next.

Has anyone experienced something like this and fixed it?

Did you ever find the solution to this ?
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