Please help!

I just got this back together from replacing the lower intake gaskets. Started and seemed to be running fine at idle and free revving.

Went for a test drive and when I came to a stop sign after about 2 blocks - running very rough, barely able to idle, knocking/rattling and now has trouble code #1345 - crakshaft/camshaft correlation.

Does this sound familiar to anyone? Where should I start to troubleshoot this?

Thanks in advance!!! Daryl

 

You have the distributer in wrong or not timed correctly. You have to set it with a scan tool that shows data. The spec is 0 + or - 2. I believe it is list as cmp advance. The snap on scanner has a distributer adjustment procedure which automatically bring it up. The dis. is the cam sensor. It is not used for ignition timing like older vehicles. It is used for fuel injector timing

 

I'm sure that MDTAHOE knows a lot more about this than I do, but I thought the rotor would only go on one way. Check your spark plugs wires to the distributor as well to make sure that they are connected to the proper location.

 

I was on the same page with you on this, but I don't do this for a living......that's why I trust the opinions of those who've dealt with this on a regular basis.

I've been over the wires 3 times, verified the TDC location 3 times and also I'm still puzzled by why it started out running smoothly and then changed, radically.

I know that the distributer now functions as the fuel injection timer, unfortunately my scanner doesn't provide a reading for the 'cam timing', only for the timing advance. Guess I'll be going shopping.

Thanks again to both of you for your thoughts!!
Daryl

 

If you have a fax number I can give info on the dis installation it is kind of tricky. If you did not have this problem before taht is what it has to be. I tried to transfer it to the forum from the computer but I could not

 

MDTAHOE - you've got mail and many thanks!!

 

I did not get a chance to look back on the site again today but I will hook you up first thing tomorrow morning

 

MDTAHOE - I've received the fax and truly want to thank you for your assistance with this!!!

Update on progress - I went home and followed my Chilton book for installing the distributor (very similar to what is shown in the faxed instructions) and everything made sense until I got to the part about the pointer - 6 for a 6-cylinder and 8 for an 8-cylinder engine.
Well, I must have a specially equipped Tahoe, because the distributor only has the '6' pointer which puts the rotor about 120* out of position and no '8' pointer. Of course, I had to try it at the #6 pointer just to make sure and it wouldn't even start (go figure).
So, I went back and did it the way that I had originally - TDC, and point the rotor at the #1 post on the cap.
It starts, but barely idles (about 250 rpm) and doesn't seem to be knocking like it was before - (whew!!)

I also discovered that I can upgrade my AutoXray scanner to have 'enhanced' readings and this will provide the ability to 'time' the cam sensor as needed. (Why this isn't 'standard' is beyond me)

So, hopefully tonight I can try to set the timing and move on to the next challenge.

 

Did you get it fixed?

 

Sigh - no.
I did get the timing set, seemed to be able to start and run better.....

But I still had a intermittent tappet/lifter knock. Removed the driver's side valve cover and discovered a bent push rod.

So, I took the intake off as an assembly to make sure that there wasn't any 'foreign objects' in the lifter valley and ordered a new push rod.

I just got through putting it all back together again, started it and set the cam timing.
I left it idling and it seemed to be running decent, then stumbling and sputtering until it died. It's now very difficult to start without putting your foot into it and won't idle without holding the throttle open

Throwing code P0300 - intermittent misfire. I'm going to buy a new cap and rotor (these aren't that old, but seems to be the obvious choice) and try again.

My next fear is that I have put the injectors into the wrong cylinders.

Does this sound like a possibility to anyone?