99 Suburban 5.7 cranks no start
#11
Hi guys, got my spark tester and fuel pressure tester in the mail last night.
Went right out there and did the tests. I found that the fuel pressure shot right up to about 61 psi on KOEO, bled down to about 40 within 10 seconds or so. From what little I know, 50 psi is sufficient to light it off. So, moved on to electrical.
Using the spark tester, I found no spark at the plugs. I pulled the high tension wire going from the coil to the distributor at the top of the dist, and had spark here.
This leads me to believe:
1. Fuel system is ok, no work necessary.
2. Ignition coil and wire are ok, no work necessary.
3. Distributor cap and rotor need replacement, ordered parts.
Any problems with this logic you see?
I found a cap and rotor on fleabay for about 17 bucks. Does that sounds right? I thought that was very cheap, but I went ahead and got it. The no spark explains why starting fluid had no effect. So, I'm hopeful.
After it lights up, I'll start tackling the water in oil issue.
Thanks.
Went right out there and did the tests. I found that the fuel pressure shot right up to about 61 psi on KOEO, bled down to about 40 within 10 seconds or so. From what little I know, 50 psi is sufficient to light it off. So, moved on to electrical.
Using the spark tester, I found no spark at the plugs. I pulled the high tension wire going from the coil to the distributor at the top of the dist, and had spark here.
This leads me to believe:
1. Fuel system is ok, no work necessary.
2. Ignition coil and wire are ok, no work necessary.
3. Distributor cap and rotor need replacement, ordered parts.
Any problems with this logic you see?
I found a cap and rotor on fleabay for about 17 bucks. Does that sounds right? I thought that was very cheap, but I went ahead and got it. The no spark explains why starting fluid had no effect. So, I'm hopeful.
After it lights up, I'll start tackling the water in oil issue.
Thanks.
#12
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Middletown DE
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I got my cap and rotor off amazon try to use only OEM(AC/DELCO) these engines seem to hate aftermarket stuff,the fuel pressure should be between 62-66psi KOEO and shouldn't bleed down that quick,for now get spark out at the plugs and see how it goes
How old are the wires and plugs?
How old are the wires and plugs?
#13
Evening Sean, got it on the cap and rotor. Thought it was too good to be true.
Wires and plugs are probably 100k old at least. The owner doesn't appear to do anything in the prev. maint. dept that I've seen. Ground through a brake pad and put the steel backing plate into the rotor if that gives you any indication...
Wires and plugs are probably 100k old at least. The owner doesn't appear to do anything in the prev. maint. dept that I've seen. Ground through a brake pad and put the steel backing plate into the rotor if that gives you any indication...
#14
I got my cap and rotor off amazon try to use only OEM(AC/DELCO) these engines seem to hate aftermarket stuff,the fuel pressure should be between 62-66psi KOEO and shouldn't bleed down that quick,for now get spark out at the plugs and see how it goes
How old are the wires and plugs?
How old are the wires and plugs?
Thanks for all the assistance.
#15
Installed the new steel backed intake manifold gasket and reassembled. Fired up and it warms to about 200, oil and water in their respective homes for now. Thanks for all the help gents, case closed on this one!
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