nashcarjay

I have a 1999 Chevy Suburban 5.7 "R" and am having a problem. The
vehicle will not start. I have checked the spark, timing meaning
distributor position, tdc, even took timing cover off and checked
chain. Have spark and fuel pump runs the two seconds when turn key.
Sprayed hot shot to see if it would help but no good. The odd thing
is that is seems like motor gets hung up as I spin motor, and I get air
coming back through the intake on consistent strokes

I have checked the compression and it is good with 155-180 pounds all
around. I checked for fuel and it is good. I have good spark. I took
off timing cover and checked marks and all is good. I checked the
distributor gear and it looked knife edged so I replaced it new along with
cap, rotor, plugs, wires.

The odd thing is the truck started with the rotor 180 out from timing
marks, but it ran really poor, binding when trying to start, and was
backfiring hard into intake. When I align the correct way, it will not
start and has air going into intake. I found this to be odd that it will
run 180 out but not with correct timing. This truck is driving me
nutz. I have compression, spark, fuel, and replaced new parts and I am
puzzled. Any ideas?"

lrayzer

Apparently this was the result of some engine work ? Intake pulled ? I am fighting the same issue with my daughters 99 denali, bit I got it to run after about 6 tries with the distributor before it would even fire, still throwing a code for timing varience.
Where the heck is the timing mark on this engine ?
I used my TDC whistler to get there which left something to be desired.
Did you make a reference mark of TDC with the timing gears lined up ? you checked "dot to dot" I hope.
Spark, Fuel and air, only leaves timing, but just for safety, has the fuel filter been changed ?
Just because the pump and relay appear to be working, does not make proper fuel pressure a given.

Keep posting on this and good luck

wheelerml

I had this exact problem. I recently replaced the intake gasket. upon removing the distributo I made reference markings for rotor position and distributor body position.When replacing the distributor the marks would not line up exactly...I was 1 tooth off. I didn't realize the oil pump shaft moved when removing the distributor. So when replacing the distributor I was one tooth off for rotor alignment.
When attempting to start the engine. It sounded like no fire or no fuel. meaning not even a pop. just cranked over and over. I suspected I was 180 out... flipped the distributor and it popped and attempted to start. This can't be. So I went to old school method for distributor replacement. Removed number one plug.

Cranked motor with finger over plug hole until pressure pushes past your finger. Stop...the motor is on compression stroke. Ithen attempted to installdistributorwith rotor pointing to number one plug on the distributor cap. (rotor points to number one cyclinder)With distributor body pointing to previously made reference mark.This required adjusting the oil pump shaft some with a longflatscrewdriver.

Fired right up. Had to make a small adjustment to distributor locationto smooth out the idle.
I read you can be with +-2 and it should start. Any more and it will misfire.

Hope this helps.

meetmonk

Feul body meter. Old ones clog up.flawed design.