Hey![/align][/align]I just got a new battery for my '99 Tahoe and now she wont fire up, she cranks and sometimes sounds like she's about to turn over but doesn't.[/align]Any tips?[/align]Could it be security related? The security light dies after the key's been in the igintion for about 10 sec though.[/align][/align]/Matt[/align]

 

fuel pump.....sounds like either no spark, or no fuel....if it almost fires, then its getting spark, maybe not enough......can you hear the fuel pump kick in when you turn the key on..?

 

What was it doing before you replaced the battery?

 

Short story:
Had an old battery sittingin the car (think it's the original from '99) and as the weather got worse with lots of a rain and cold, the car had to be jump started after a rough night.
Did this a few times and then let the car sit for about two weeks before Igot a new battery and then the car wouldn't start.

Yeah I hear the fuel pump when I turn the key.
Also, itsometimes sounds like it missfires, like if one cylinder fires in a wrong possition or something, get a "klonk" sound.

Could I have offset the computer when I replaced the old battery?

Tried to fire it up with a spray can today, no luck though.

Thanks for the replies guys.

 

This sounds like a fuel pump to me. If you don't have a pressure guage, then carefully try cycling the key to see if you can hear the pump. Then with the key off press the schrader valve on the fuel rail on top of the motor to see if gas comes out.

 

and don't use starter fluid on that motor.

 

You've got the same problem as I...Sticky Poppet Valve at the end of the injector..They leak down after
the truck sits awhile...Mine takes 12 hours to flood, then it "tries" to fire, backfires and then blows black smoke
when it starts.. GM has an upgraded fuel injection spider, that eliminates the Poppet Valve entirely as the are BIG trouble in California due to the fuel blend there...Probably more alcohol, which softens the plastic.
Google this number - #00-06-04-003B ..This TSB covers the whole sheebang for all vortecs..
THE GOOD NEWS is the whole assembly from GM PartsDirect is $240...which includes pressure regulator,
$104, 8 injectors $54 each, gaskets / o-rings $25 (if bought seperately)..
It's a well documented problem.. You shold try the GM top-end-cleaner or Seafoam per insructions,
as it's a varnish/sludge issue. The poppets get sticky. If it sticks open, you flood. If it sticks closed, you have a dead cylinder..
BTW.. The spider seels for $340 at Autozone Plus o-rings $24, Fuel presure regulator,$54..

Good luck.. When you Google that TSB # look for the posts that describe the repair,, there's a couple really good one's.

 

The trouble-prone Sequential Central Port Injector (SCPI) fuel system was installed on GM's popular SUVs, pickup trucks and vans with 4.3L, 5.0L, and 5.7 liter engines. The defective fuel injection systems can cause GM owners to experience a "Service Engine Soon" light, misfires, rough idle, and hard start problems due to deposit build-up that cause poppet valves to stick and fail

CHECK THIS OUT here is the link to it http://www.arb.ca.gov/newsrel/nr021103.htm

http://www.talkabouttrucks.com/group...ges/71004.html

HERE'S SOME MORE[][sm=exactly.gif]

 

If you have tried using starting fluid with no luck then you may have an ignition system issue or you may indeed have a VTD system that has activated.

Have a dealer or tech with a Tech-2 device connect it and follow this proceedure: [ol]1. Select the "POWERTRAIN" option
2. Select "DATA DISPLAY"
3. Select engine data and look for the "VTD FUEL DISABLE" parameter Crank the engine, If the "VTD FUEL DISABLE" indicates "ACTIVE", The passlock theft deterrent system is disabling the fuel and you need to follow theft deterrent diagnosis.
4. When the engine is cranked, if the "VTD FUEL DISABLE" indicates "INACTIVE", The no start condition is NOT being caused by a theft deterrent concern and normal no start diagnostic should be followed.. [/ol]

 

My 2 cents...On my '99 Tahoe about every year and a half I have to replace the distributor cap and rotor. It acts like it wants start but stumbles like flooding.... this is time to change the cap. Last time I thought it was the fuel pump or starter....just time for another the cap and rotor. If you have a "CRAB" cap check this out. They corrode easily, carbon crack easily and are a sore spot on an otherwise great motor.