ac tensioner breaking and rattling
Sometimes a belt whine, squeek or rattle can be caused by the power steering pump pulley being positioned too far inboard on the PS pump shaft.
Make sure that the ps pulley is flush with the shaft end.
Make sure that the ps pulley is flush with the shaft end.
I have a 2001 Tahoe 5.3L and just a week ago started experiencing loss of cooling and heavy vibration with rattling noise when acceleration reached 2000RPM and then would stop. I notice that it wouldn't do it when I turned off the AC, so I figured it wasn't the Pulley, I had a rough idle when the AC was on and I was sitting still, almost stalled out, it would smooth out when AC was turned off, So I figured it to be the compressor. I found a REMAN compressor with 6MO warranty that came with Drier, O-Tube. and oil for $145. After I took the compressor off I found that the bearing in the tensioner pulley was loose, I think the strain from the compressor is causing the problems with the Pulley breaking on some vehicles and repeat tensioner problems. I purchased a new Tensioner assembly from Autozone for $33 with lifetime replacement warranty, so we'll see how this holds up.
Months ago I was adding freon to my Honda car and had some left so I emptied about 3/4 of a can in to the Sub. Has work fine until recently where it starts making a flapping sound 1500-2000 rpm. Coming back from a long road trip to Colorado from Dallas(1580 miles rt). We noticed a noise at highway speeds(thought it was the radiator over fill tube hitting the fan-no big deal. Stopped for gas looked around under the hood and found nothing(it was 108 degrees). Got home fine. Then I noticed the loud flapping sound(not my daily driver so not positive on how long this has been going on).The compressor has eatin 3 belts so far. I let some freon out and the problem seem to improve somewhat but I have found that I can make the flapping sound of the tensioner for the a/c belt stop by spraying water on the condenser out front of the radiator. This will last about 10 minutes untill everything gets good and hot again.
So is it possible the radiator fan clutch isn't pulling enough air across the condenser to liquify the freon before it goes onto the expansion valve? ( works fine at highway speeds of 70-80mph
Let me see if I have my a/c theory right.
High pressure high temp gas out of the compressor to the condenser to be turned into a high pressure high temperature liquid and onto the orifice(expansion valve) where it goes to a low pressure low temperature gas thru the evaporator coil(where you get cold air from) and back to the compressor as a low temp low pressure gas to be compressed again to start the cycle over.
What happens if the high pressure high temp gas does not condense into liquid before it goes thru the orifice? So gas on the high side going to the low side where its suppose to expand into cool gas?
Any and all responses welcome.
I want to start a count for owners that have the flapping sound. So cut and paste and add youur user name to the list. Thanks.
1.Flyin-A
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So is it possible the radiator fan clutch isn't pulling enough air across the condenser to liquify the freon before it goes onto the expansion valve? ( works fine at highway speeds of 70-80mph
Let me see if I have my a/c theory right.
High pressure high temp gas out of the compressor to the condenser to be turned into a high pressure high temperature liquid and onto the orifice(expansion valve) where it goes to a low pressure low temperature gas thru the evaporator coil(where you get cold air from) and back to the compressor as a low temp low pressure gas to be compressed again to start the cycle over.
What happens if the high pressure high temp gas does not condense into liquid before it goes thru the orifice? So gas on the high side going to the low side where its suppose to expand into cool gas?
Any and all responses welcome.
I want to start a count for owners that have the flapping sound. So cut and paste and add youur user name to the list. Thanks.

1.Flyin-A
2.
3.
4.
5.
yep, too much liquid getting into the compressor can cause it to pull harder than the belt can take and cause it to break, i believe that is what the tsb is for but i didnt think you had to replace the compressor, just the orifice tube but then again that is a really good price






