So my autoride compressor on my '07 is done. I did find the fuse blown (#61) but replacing it with a new one didn't get it running again.

My question is should I replace it or just leave as is? Driving around (no load) the vehicle rides fine. I'm more curious about towing. I do have a boat that I tow regularly during the summer...22' so it puts quite a bit of weight on it.

When I brought home a load of rock for landscaping yesterday the vehicle was really squatting. Enough that I heard some tire rubs over bumps.

My gut tells me I'd be best served to replace the compressor or swap out for some heavier shocks (non air).

 

Regular shocks whether light, medium, or heavy don't hold you truck up. Springs do. Any air assisted spring or shock will help under load when used right. I'd just fix the auto ride if it did the job before.

 

GM Parts direct has it listed

REAR SUSPENSION / REAR SUSPENSION / RIDE CONTROL / COMPRESSOR
compressor Tahoe, Yukon, Escalade

MSRP Online Price
$477.26 $282.92

 

What made me scratch my head the most was that when not under load it's fine...ride is normal and very acceptable. But when I put that load of rock in back it REALLY sagged...more so than my old '04 Z71 ever did.

Talked to my service rep and got a quote of $648 to replace it.

 

Here is the part and the list they will probably work from, the part is $452.47 with an install time of about 1.5 hrs... the price could have gone up or down since the printing of this data sheet but the time should still be accurate...

 

You can easily get it done in less than an hour and half if nothing else is broken. You should make sure the line that is connected to the compressor is not pierced or anything as you will have to buy the line kit too if it is. I just did this on my 2008LTZ which I tow with constantly what the compressor will do once there is load in the truck it will try refilling it back to stock height but it can't handle it and it dumps the truck back down. You won't be able to tow with it as the frame will bottom out constantly on the slightest of uphill. I suggest getting an OEM compressor because the line kit will probably not bolt up too the line kit right with an aftermarket one that I tried the first time sadly.

 

This failure seems to occur a LOT with these vehicles, and it's not a cheap fix...

There are posts about the auto ride almost daily failing... I'm surprised there hasn't been a class action yet... (no worries, if mine goes, there will be).

These things should last longer than 5 years...

 

Planned Obsolescence - vehicles are now designed to be disposable...
That poor Indian of the 70's tearing up over a Styrofoam cup at the shores of the Golden Gate bridge is rolling in his grave now.....


Back in the late 80's early 90's corporate america decided that consumers would own nothing and pay continuously for everything...

 

True I guess, why build it to last when it's expected life time is 5 years?

I do IT for a living (not it, I'm not a **** star... yet)... printers... even $500 ones... cheaper to replace than fix. same with projectors.

I've actually run the numbers on this.

If you can find a car that only depreciates approx $5,000 every year for 3 years... it's best to buy a new one every 3 years.

Think about it.

Car payment = $500 (easy number) so your spending $6,000 a year for your car.


that's $500/month POOF, gone. (yes you get equity, but after 10 years most cars are worth $5k on a good day).

If you find a car that you can buy new and trade in the old of, for a $18-20,000 difference... it's CHEAPER.


allow me to elaborate, even if off topic

Tahoe: $55,000
Tahoe + 10 years of use = $5,000

so... we "spend" $5,000 / year to drive a tahoe for 10 years PLUS repair costs / maintenance / etc.

IF we can find a car that costs us LESS than $5k/year to SELL and buy NEW every 3 years... it's perpetually under manufacture's warranty.

So if I buy a.... Pontiac Aztek (LOL, that's more of a joke than a car, but still)

for... $50,000

and I can trade it in 3 years later for $35,000 and spend $15,000 on a NEW one... (assuming no inflation here people, keep it simple because inflation also hits all the parts / repairs of a non warranty car)...

then... my actual loss, is still $5,000 /year. with NO repair costs, AND a new car!

am I missing anything big here?

tax. $900 on $15,000.

but over 3 years... that's $300/year or 3 tanks of gas.... so not a deal breaker.

 

^^^ Or on the other end of that spectrum, you can buy the 10 year vehicle for $5k. I just paid $5300 cash for my 2000 Suburban LT that is mechanically sound, fully loaded, and in overall very nice condition. Obviously I plan on putting some money into it but not nearly as much as a $600 a month car payment. I plan on driving this thing for a good 5 years and selling it for within a couple thousand dollars of what I paid for it.

To each their own...