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2013 Chevrolet Suburban
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Broken Motor Mounts

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Old September 25th, 2014 | 6:35 PM
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Default Broken Motor Mounts

I have a 2007 Burb LTZ with 120,000 miles on it that was diagnosed with a broken motor mount by my mechanic. How the hell does a motor mount break on a stock vehicle??? Anyway, he quoted me over $700 to replace both of them. Has anyone else ran into this problem? After doing some research I see this is a common occurrence. Have any of you who had this problem had much success dealing with a dealership to have this problem rectified?
Old September 26th, 2014 | 12:48 PM
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Motor Mounts can go bad if...
Some were made with sub standard material...
Something (like a liquid) got on them, and deteriorated the rubber...
Excessive severe reverse/forward direction changes where made...
other possibilities also.

The cost seems high to me, might check with an independent garage for a second opinion on that.
Old September 26th, 2014 | 2:34 PM
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My wife drives the vehicle to and from work and also taking the kids to school. The vehicle is never driven hard. I am going to get some other estimates and probably will end up doing it myself but just disappointed that these parts are failing. I believe you are correct when saying that the they were possibly made with sub standard materials. That seems to be the common trend in these vehicles now a days. I would like to hear from others who have had this problem.
Old December 31st, 2014 | 8:46 AM
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I replaced my left mount myself in about 2 hours and $100. There are "How To" videos on you tube that explain how to get to it through the wheel well. It was very awkward to access and I would gladly pay someone $300-$400 to do it next time. It has a heat shield built into it which contributes to the difficulties in replacing. The heat shield probably also explains why they are failing. It is likely that the rubber is exposed to extreme heat causing it to break down quickly.

I believe my right side or bottom may have failed now due to a strange creaking noise at initial acceleration. I'm trying to verify today. The left side was easy to diagnose because the engine would lift off the mount when gas and brake is applied. The other mounts get downward pressure.
Old January 1st, 2015 | 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Markh
I replaced my left mount myself in about 2 hours and $100. There are "How To" videos on you tube that explain how to get to it through the wheel well. It was very awkward to access and I would gladly pay someone $300-$400 to do it next time. It has a heat shield built into it which contributes to the difficulties in replacing. The heat shield probably also explains why they are failing. It is likely that the rubber is exposed to extreme heat causing it to break down quickly.

I believe my right side or bottom may have failed now due to a strange creaking noise at initial acceleration. I'm trying to verify today. The left side was easy to diagnose because the engine would lift off the mount when gas and brake is applied. The other mounts get downward pressure.
Did you use an engine hoist to raise the engine up or another method?
Old January 2nd, 2015 | 9:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Carbo
Did you use an engine hoist to raise the engine up or another method?
I carefully jacked the engine up using a board to distribute the pressure. Need to be very careful not to damage the oil pan. I was told that if it was even slightly dented while jacking it up it it would interfere with oil pick-up and need to be replaced.
Old January 3rd, 2015 | 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Markh
I carefully jacked the engine up using a board to distribute the pressure. Need to be very careful not to damage the oil pan. I was told that if it was even slightly dented while jacking it up it it would interfere with oil pick-up and need to be replaced.
Ok, thanks for the reply.
Old January 3rd, 2015 | 12:26 PM
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I had this problem in 2004 with motor mounts on my 2003 Mazda Millenia. The 3 mounts were over $200 each.
So I got some broken (junk) ones from a salvage yard for almost nothing.

I cut & scraped all of the rubber off. Then using cardboard & duct tape I sealed them up with only a small part exposed, so I could pour the rubberish material into them.
From Eager Plastics in Chicago, I bought a 3 pint PMC 790 kit. This is a rubberish urethane product. The hardness is measured in "shores".
90 SHORE is what I used. If I did it again I'd use 70 SHORE. It is a 2-part mixture product.

When I had all 3 motor mounts ready, I mixed and poured the urethane into them and allowed them to set & cure for 24 hours.
That was 12 years ago. I still have the car (as a spare even though I don't drive it much anymore).
The Factory mounts ONLY lasted a couple of months over a year.
The ones I made (or repaired) are still going strong.

Last edited by wasww; January 3rd, 2015 at 12:52 PM. Reason: correct typing error
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