We had this happen on our 2005 Yukon. There's a SPECIAL Loctite conductive epoxy kit to repair this, had to buy online, no local stores had it (and I even worked for a sister company of Loctite). It was a one-use, two part system. Yes, I stretched the too-strong, too short coiled wire, and after the repair we only opened the full hatch, not the glass portion only.

A couple of years ago that back window suddenly exploded, but we had glass coverage included in our comprehensive, so the rear window was replaced at no charge.

 

Pasted from another topic header I replied to.
Been there, done that.
Permatex makes a tab repair kit. I did that on my Tahoe but it did not hold up. I wound up heating up the metal tab so a blob of molten solider stayed on the tab and stuck it onto the window. I then used the Permatex kit's orange copper paste paint to paint around the metal tab to make the connection even better.
It's over a year now and so far so good. I'm in a colder area so every time I remote start the rear defroster goes on automatically so it gets used a lot more weather I like it or not.
Other than that it's change the glass

 

Permatex products are generally high-quality. Our Loctite repair held up for almost a decade until the window exploded. Loctite #21351.

 

I'm gonna try this product. I have a no solder left on the glass so i was wondering if this would conduct on another area on the grid.

 

It may but I lightly sanded the grid after the stick-on repair failed then did the soldier repair. Problem is the longer coiled wires hanging / swinging from it with the opening glass hatch all the time. Most kits supply the copper paint to paint around the tab so it makes connection. That's what's in the grid repair kits.

 

I used a conductuve epoxy for a computer board repair once. Has worked for years.