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Old Nov 29, 2012 | 4:48 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by rickp
Hey guys,
I'm due to flush and replace the coolant on my 02 Tahoe LT 5.3L.

In the manual it says to remove the cylinder block plugs and drain the coolant. Here's my question, I've looked all over the bottom of that engine and I can't find any cylinder plug. Could it be possible that my truck doesn't have them. As per the book there's supposed to be 2 of them, one on each side.

If I dont' have them, what i was planning on doing to flush the system was to drain the radiator by the drain plug, then disconnect the main radiator hose, stick the water hose in the radiator turn the water and engine on, put the heater on high and let everything flush out. Am I on track here?

Thanks guys.
R.
Two things, first you don't want to stick your water hose into something that could potentially draw bad water back into your house water system. Next, unless you remove the thermostat you will only flush up to it as it will close due to temp.
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Old Nov 29, 2012 | 9:43 PM
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Originally Posted by rickp
Hey guys,
I'm due to flush and replace the coolant on my 02 Tahoe LT 5.3L.

In the manual it says to remove the cylinder block plugs and drain the coolant. Here's my question, I've looked all over the bottom of that engine and I can't find any cylinder plug. Could it be possible that my truck doesn't have them. As per the book there's supposed to be 2 of them, one on each side.

If I dont' have them, what i was planning on doing to flush the system was to drain the radiator by the drain plug, then disconnect the main radiator hose, stick the water hose in the radiator turn the water and engine on, put the heater on high and let everything flush out. Am I on track here?

Thanks guys.
R.
Ignore the plug removal... the rest will depend on how "bad" the current fluid is... if its still relatively clear and clean, I would remove the hoses and T-stat and replace only what comes out on its own...
The reason being unless you know you have very good mineral free/low mineral content water, you could be introducing calcium and and other minerals that don't react well with metals at high temp by using city water...
I personally prefer the pre-mix as it is the correct dilution and is made with distilled water....
If on the other hand the fluid is pretty gunked up, flushing may be the only way to go..

I know others express concerns about cost of pre-mix vs full solution, to me its not a concern of cost as I am likely to only ever change the fluid 1 or 2 times in the life of the vehicle (1 time every 5 yrs)
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Old Nov 30, 2012 | 11:48 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by in2pro
Ignore the plug removal... the rest will depend on how "bad" the current fluid is... if its still relatively clear and clean, I would remove the hoses and T-stat and replace only what comes out on its own...
The reason being unless you know you have very good mineral free/low mineral content water, you could be introducing calcium and and other minerals that don't react well with metals at high temp by using city water...
I personally prefer the pre-mix as it is the correct dilution and is made with distilled water....
If on the other hand the fluid is pretty gunked up, flushing may be the only way to go..

I know others express concerns about cost of pre-mix vs full solution, to me its not a concern of cost as I am likely to only ever change the fluid 1 or 2 times in the life of the vehicle (1 time every 5 yrs)
The condition of my fluid is not too bad. As for mixture, I'm not using city water, I went out and got some destilled water to add to the system.

R.
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Old Dec 2, 2012 | 12:30 AM
  #14  
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50-50 pre-mix = $12/gal
Straight = $6/gal
==> water = $18/gal

I guess I worked too hard to pay that kind of money for water.
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Old Dec 2, 2012 | 10:07 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by 73shark
50-50 pre-mix = $12/gal
Straight = $6/gal
==> water = $18/gal

I guess I worked too hard to pay that kind of money for water.
$18/gal???? Where do you get your water from?? I payed less than $3 for the gal. I payed just over $10 for all the water I needed. If using distilled helps prevent corrosion and part failure then it's worth it.
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Old Dec 2, 2012 | 8:17 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by rickp
$18/gal???? Where do you get your water from?? I payed less than $3 for the gal. I payed just over $10 for all the water I needed. If using distilled helps prevent corrosion and part failure then it's worth it.
73shark is using that fuzzy math He gets the numbers from the 6 extra dollars per gallon of 50/50 mix over the full strength... I purchased 3 gallons of 50/50 hence the $18....
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Old Dec 6, 2012 | 12:41 AM
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Thank you.
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Old Dec 6, 2012 | 11:09 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by in2pro
73shark is using that fuzzy math He gets the numbers from the 6 extra dollars per gallon of 50/50 mix over the full strength... I purchased 3 gallons of 50/50 hence the $18....
Ohh!!!! I get it.

Well thank you all for the help.
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Old Dec 6, 2012 | 3:46 PM
  #19  
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What did you decide to do or should I say how to do...
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