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Coolant fluid change
#11
CF Monarch
Hey guys,
I'm due to flush and replace the coolant on my 02 Tahoe LT 5.3L.
In the manual it says to remove the cylinder block plugs and drain the coolant. Here's my question, I've looked all over the bottom of that engine and I can't find any cylinder plug. Could it be possible that my truck doesn't have them. As per the book there's supposed to be 2 of them, one on each side.
If I dont' have them, what i was planning on doing to flush the system was to drain the radiator by the drain plug, then disconnect the main radiator hose, stick the water hose in the radiator turn the water and engine on, put the heater on high and let everything flush out. Am I on track here?
Thanks guys.
R.
I'm due to flush and replace the coolant on my 02 Tahoe LT 5.3L.
In the manual it says to remove the cylinder block plugs and drain the coolant. Here's my question, I've looked all over the bottom of that engine and I can't find any cylinder plug. Could it be possible that my truck doesn't have them. As per the book there's supposed to be 2 of them, one on each side.
If I dont' have them, what i was planning on doing to flush the system was to drain the radiator by the drain plug, then disconnect the main radiator hose, stick the water hose in the radiator turn the water and engine on, put the heater on high and let everything flush out. Am I on track here?
Thanks guys.
R.
#12
Administrator
Hey guys,
I'm due to flush and replace the coolant on my 02 Tahoe LT 5.3L.
In the manual it says to remove the cylinder block plugs and drain the coolant. Here's my question, I've looked all over the bottom of that engine and I can't find any cylinder plug. Could it be possible that my truck doesn't have them. As per the book there's supposed to be 2 of them, one on each side.
If I dont' have them, what i was planning on doing to flush the system was to drain the radiator by the drain plug, then disconnect the main radiator hose, stick the water hose in the radiator turn the water and engine on, put the heater on high and let everything flush out. Am I on track here?
Thanks guys.
R.
I'm due to flush and replace the coolant on my 02 Tahoe LT 5.3L.
In the manual it says to remove the cylinder block plugs and drain the coolant. Here's my question, I've looked all over the bottom of that engine and I can't find any cylinder plug. Could it be possible that my truck doesn't have them. As per the book there's supposed to be 2 of them, one on each side.
If I dont' have them, what i was planning on doing to flush the system was to drain the radiator by the drain plug, then disconnect the main radiator hose, stick the water hose in the radiator turn the water and engine on, put the heater on high and let everything flush out. Am I on track here?
Thanks guys.
R.
The reason being unless you know you have very good mineral free/low mineral content water, you could be introducing calcium and and other minerals that don't react well with metals at high temp by using city water...
I personally prefer the pre-mix as it is the correct dilution and is made with distilled water....
If on the other hand the fluid is pretty gunked up, flushing may be the only way to go..
I know others express concerns about cost of pre-mix vs full solution, to me its not a concern of cost as I am likely to only ever change the fluid 1 or 2 times in the life of the vehicle (1 time every 5 yrs)
#13
Ignore the plug removal... the rest will depend on how "bad" the current fluid is... if its still relatively clear and clean, I would remove the hoses and T-stat and replace only what comes out on its own...
The reason being unless you know you have very good mineral free/low mineral content water, you could be introducing calcium and and other minerals that don't react well with metals at high temp by using city water...
I personally prefer the pre-mix as it is the correct dilution and is made with distilled water....
If on the other hand the fluid is pretty gunked up, flushing may be the only way to go..
I know others express concerns about cost of pre-mix vs full solution, to me its not a concern of cost as I am likely to only ever change the fluid 1 or 2 times in the life of the vehicle (1 time every 5 yrs)
The reason being unless you know you have very good mineral free/low mineral content water, you could be introducing calcium and and other minerals that don't react well with metals at high temp by using city water...
I personally prefer the pre-mix as it is the correct dilution and is made with distilled water....
If on the other hand the fluid is pretty gunked up, flushing may be the only way to go..
I know others express concerns about cost of pre-mix vs full solution, to me its not a concern of cost as I am likely to only ever change the fluid 1 or 2 times in the life of the vehicle (1 time every 5 yrs)
R.
#15
$18/gal???? Where do you get your water from?? I payed less than $3 for the gal. I payed just over $10 for all the water I needed. If using distilled helps prevent corrosion and part failure then it's worth it.
#16
Administrator
73shark is using that fuzzy math He gets the numbers from the 6 extra dollars per gallon of 50/50 mix over the full strength... I purchased 3 gallons of 50/50 hence the $18....
#18
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