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2013 Chevrolet Suburban
Platform: GMT 400, 800, 900

DEAD BATTERY

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Old Nov 1, 2006 | 9:12 PM
  #11  
ZX1100F1's Avatar
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Default RE: DEAD BATTERY

Only need an isolator if you're using it for a secondary battery to run just accessories.

Dave
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Old Nov 17, 2006 | 10:57 AM
  #12  
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Default RE: DEAD BATTERY

My 07 did exact same thing, a couple times, had to jump start it, finally called dealer, they are about 40 miles from me, they told me bring it in. I did they checked, battery was bad, they replaced it, and have not had the problem again. One more thing guys, when you are sitting in your truck, radio goes off, turn key forward, but just a little, not all the way, then just the radio will come back on and notheing else.
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Old Nov 23, 2006 | 11:00 PM
  #13  
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Happy Thanksgiving To All of You. My battery also went dead on my 07 last sunday. My grandson wanted to see how the remote start worked so I let him start it and I shut it down about a minute later and we never opened the door. The next morning there was a sound from the CD changer after I tried to start it and a Solenoid Click. Jumped it off with no problem I brought it in for battery check and charging system check, service advisor said everything checked out ok. He said it may be some sort of security lock down, I think the battery run down did not function or some thing hung on and drained it. any Ideas ZX!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Anyone
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Old Nov 24, 2006 | 1:04 AM
  #14  
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Default RE: DEAD BATTERY

Good luck! I had to have mine hauled in 5 times early this year. I had the HVAC reprogram and haven't had the problem since. I don't however run any accessories anymore. Ie listening to radio while washing truck.

This is not a tailgate party vehicle!! It drawas way too much power as soon as you open the door let alone turn anything on.








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Old Nov 24, 2006 | 11:54 AM
  #15  
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Well that sounds encouraging, I wonder if GM will Re-Imberse me for my Jump Starter I bought from Wal-Mart. I guess I will do a little more research on the Battery Protection scheme.
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Old Feb 7, 2007 | 5:07 PM
  #16  
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Default RE: DEAD BATTERY

ZX,
Is this still as simple as you say it is? Get another battery, run positive and negative to factory batter???? Seems to damn easy. I too thought someone had mentioned they purchased a couple hundred dollars in GM parts/kits to complete this? I too am having battery dieing issues after brief dome light and radio periods!
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Old Feb 7, 2007 | 6:32 PM
  #17  
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I am not an automotive guru or anything, but it seems like if you wire the 2 batteries in sequence (hot battery two to hot battery one and negative battery two to battery one), it would appear that this would equal 24 volts????? Not sure.

My golf cart has six 6 volt batteries which equals 36V.. the motor in my golfcart is a 36V motor...
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Old Feb 7, 2007 | 6:48 PM
  #18  
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Default RE: DEAD BATTERY

No, you would only get 24v if you wired the batteries in series: battery 1 neg to gnd, battery 1pos to battery 2 neg, battery 2pos to load. This is not the way to do it.

Pos > Pos
Neg > Neg
is correct as ZX described

the only problem with this arrangement is without an isolator if you get a shorted cell in one battery it will drain both of them. Electrically it just looks like one big battery with twice the storage potential.
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Old Feb 7, 2007 | 9:06 PM
  #19  
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so would this work? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/140-A...77697665QQrdZ1

i looked and found that our alternator is 145 amps..

ORIGINAL: konasmrz

No, you would only get 24v if you wired the batteries in series: battery 1 neg to gnd, battery 1pos to battery 2 neg, battery 2pos to load. This is not the way to do it.

Pos > Pos
Neg > Neg
is correct as ZX described

the only problem with this arrangement is without an isolator if you get a shorted cell in one battery it will drain both of them. Electrically it just looks like one big battery with twice the storage potential.
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Old Feb 7, 2007 | 9:31 PM
  #20  
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Default RE: DEAD BATTERY

It should; but I suggest that you review the wiring information on the isolator you plan on using first. In any event, I suspect you'd still have to do some custom wiring. Here is the link to the isolator you referenced:

http://www.colehersee.com/pdf/IFs/IF-128_Bat%20iso.pdf

Ps. keep in mind that using an isolator requires separate load circuits. (i.e., if your main batt goes dead you still won't be able to automatically start the engine off the secondary; you'd need a battery switch for that)
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