just to clarify, the directions bykonasmrzstated that after you finish installing the mirrors and door switch, 3 of the windows will not roll up.

 

FYI - success! $62 labor for the tech II service and all functions work great! thanks to all who contributed to the instructions.

 

Followed the instructions given here, got the dealer to program the mirrors and they work awesome.

Thanks

 

I know there hasn't been a post in a few months but I wanted to bring this topicback up.

This upgrade was done to a 2LT '07 avalanche < 5k miles. A friend and I (Car audio/shade tree mechanic experience) changed these mirrors and switch out in 30 minutes.

Thanks to all who contributed to the posts, I just wanted to add/confirm some things.

Only parts I ordered were 2 DL3 mirrors ($300 shipped ebay and they were in GREAT condition), and the driver's door switch w/o manual fold. ~$95 shipped from P&G chevrolet.

I purchased 2 DL3 mirrors (used) from ebay. Theywere from an '07Tahoe and '07 Yukon. Both looked identical except for the color. I popped off the "mirror caps" and put my old ones on and they fit like a charm. You can't even tell they were replaced. Replacement of the mirrors was easy. Only tools I needed where a 10mm deep socket, extension, ratchet, plastic scraper (putty/drywall,ect..), auto trim pry tool, Torx set, and a small flat head screw driver. Most people have these things, if not, you can get them all from harbor freight, walmart, ect...

Be sure to remove a total of 3 10MM bolts. 1 behind the door handle after popping off the black trim panel(easily done with flat head screw driver inserted within the indentation on the door panel). The other two are behind another small trim panel that pops of with a screw driver by the arm rest.

The upper sail panel (little triangle piece on the upper door panel by the power mirrors) is popped in place. Just pry and it will come off. This has to be removed in order to remove the door panel and gain access to the 3 10mm nuts holding the mirror on. There are a total of 3 retaining clips holding this on. The door panels are popped in place so all you have to do is pry on all corners of the panel and it should come right off. Be sure to use even pressure when pulling so you don't warp/bend the panel. Highly unlikely but I've seen it happen. I chose not to completely remove them so I didn't have to remove the plastic door lock on the upper part of the door panel.

Both door switches are easily removed by prying on the front and back parts of them and removing the harnesses attached.

The harness for the mirrors is attached to the doors by nylon retaining clips. All you need for these is the automotive trim panel tool ( or something equivilent like a prybar ). There are a total of 3 nylon clips. Be sure to wrap and metal pry tool in duct tape or masking tape to avoid scratching the paint.

At this point you can remove the 3 10mm nuts holding the mirrors on. They're behind the grey foam that was behind the sail panel that was removed earlier. Remove the foam, nuts, then go to the outside of the vehicle and pry the upper portion of the mirror off. There's one nylon retaining clip holding the mirror on so it's not going to fall off after the 3 nuts are removed.

Once removed, reverse the process. If you chose to order used ones from someone and you need to pop off the "mirror caps" to match the color of your vehicle, use the flat plastic scraper/putty knife and pry on the outter part of the caps. The should just pop off and your old ones will fit right in place.

*** Now here's some additional info ***

For those of you that just want the power turn signalsbut don't want to deal with tearingdownyour old mirrors and having to custom wire some aftermarket ones, you can purchase the dl3 mirrors and plug them right into your old switch! You'll have turn signals, power mirror adjustmentsand auto dimming without any programming. I discovered this by forgetting to replace the old switch with the new. The old switch has the provisions for the new mirror harness.

For those that want power folding, you'll need to order the other switch with the power folding buttons on them. You'll need a torx wrench to remove the 3 bolts holding the switch on to the driver's trim panel. Once the switch is removed, I used a razor blade and notched the area I wanted to remove.I prefer this method as opposed to my dremel because I have more control of the portion I'm removing and it makes for a cleaner/linear cut. After using the razor to make several passes on the plastic, I popped it off (similar to a piece of perforated paper).

I then drove to the dealer, told them "My mirrors don't work", they wrote a service order and BAM! Dl3 mirrors. My dealership didn't charge me anything!One thing did give me a scare. When they were originally done, I got in the truck and noticed the passenger side mirror wasn't folding in. I told the service advisor, and he grabbed the Tech 2 guy from the shop to look at it. The tech looked puzzled and asked me what caused the mirrors not to work. I simply told him that the mirrors were an upgrade the dealership did. He looked a little confused, took the truck to the back, and reflashed the switch. Both sides work, no money for programming out of my pocket, and I'm happy. He told me only the driver's switch had to be programmed and nothing else. I don't know how true this is but I figured I'd contribute what I was told.

I don't have the curb assist function or illumination so if anyone can add to this thread on how to get those
functions working, I'd greatly appreciate it! This install truly looks like it came from the factory with the mirrors. Nothing stands out that indicates this was done after the vehicle was purchased. I'm assuming this was one of the reasons they didn't give me any slack with putting it under a warranty repair.

Thanks again to all those who contributed to this thread!

 

Thanks for the additional info.

 

Great write-up. The service manual should be so detailed.

 

After reading your post I noticed that you explained cutting the door trim for the new switch but you wrote that you ordered a non folding switch. Is this a typo? Wouldn't the non folding switch be the same as what comes with the DL8's?

 

I couldn't find it but I seem to remember something about the vehicle needing memory seats in order for the auto tilt (curb assist) to work for the mirrors. I don't have that feature either after installing the mirrors

For the puddle lamps (this is the way mine work too)
From ZX in a post over a year ago --

After reading the tech spec's it's clear that the designed operation of these lights (puddle lamps under mirrors) is to only illuminate during entry when the RKE is used to access the vehicle. I'm not sure why the lighting engineers decided to do this but I'll see if I can find out….just sounds a little odd or maybe even a simple oversight.

 

Far be it from me to make excuses for GM but maybe the reason the "puddle lites" don't come on when exiting is because of two things: 1) the interior lites are on and help illuminate outside and 2) with the door open, the lite is not very effectively illuminating the ground where you are going to step.

 

For whatever reason, instead of naming the swith w/power folding.... They named it w/o manual fold.

Translation...

w/ power folding....

I'm pretty sure the guy naming parts is paid big dollars to confuse every do it yourself'er