Driver door clicking squeaking aquard to close
#11
i too have the same problem with my used 07 suburban. it didn't do it when I first bought it but very soon after. i noticed the dealer had sprayed all the doors with lithium grease. but it only lasts a short time and is pretty messy. i used a dab of marine grease and that seemed to do the trick at least for a longer time than lithium. and it's only the driver door
#12
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Scottsboro,AL
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Maintenance
Yep, according to this snip I found, Level II maintenance does do body component lube.... I found this out at a previous servicing I had done when I popped the hood to check that they did put the oil cap back on I noticed the hood latch was freshly lubed....
Yes after servicing at the dealer I do a full walk around checking all tires for lug nuts and valve stem caps, check under the hood for all caps back in place and check that the crank case has oil in it....Yes I trust my dealership but everyone makes mistakes and its YOUR mistake once you drive it off the lot....
Yes after servicing at the dealer I do a full walk around checking all tires for lug nuts and valve stem caps, check under the hood for all caps back in place and check that the crank case has oil in it....Yes I trust my dealership but everyone makes mistakes and its YOUR mistake once you drive it off the lot....
Last edited by warf1955; January 18th, 2014 at 5:38 AM.
#14
i just used the bg 44k in my fuel system and you can definitely feel the difference! i also used the bg moa with my last oil change and put in castrol edge full synthetic and have not had any knock at startup (which was there off and on sometimes)
#15
I have a 2008 Tahoe which we love. However, the driver's door squeaking is really loud and embarrassing. We've had it into the shop about 4 different times for this same issue. They greased it and sent on our merry way. There seems to be more of an issue than can be fixed by a little grease. Some one needs to inform the service techs what a better solution might be.
#16
they fail from lack of lubrication. they should be lubed at every oil change. spray a quality penetrant lube on it or for really bad links remove it and soak it (and work it in and out) in trans fluid for a couple days. the wrong lubricant actually makes the noise worse. techs today do not fix bad parts but replace them; as people flip out if they have to return a second time for the same concern.
When people come in screaming, techs don't do the cheap fix for fear of a return visit. Instead they bill out a new and expensive part....and maybe add "a-hole tax" to the really rude customers.
When people come in screaming, techs don't do the cheap fix for fear of a return visit. Instead they bill out a new and expensive part....and maybe add "a-hole tax" to the really rude customers.
Last edited by tech2; April 18th, 2014 at 6:35 PM.
#17
I just did this on my 08 Burb. The roller had seized on the front passenger door. Some PB blaster on the roller freed it up. I'm thinking a drop or two on each roller of some Royal Purple 5W30 should be a good lubricant.
#19
The roller hinge pin is going out R/R
That loud embarrassing squeaking midway on your door closure is an indication that the door hinge roller pin has seen better days.There are two hinge pins on the top hinge. Careful inspection will indicate it is the roller itself is shot. The noise will continue until replaced. The roller pin is connected to the door camming behind the spring that keeps the door from slamming shut on its own. Google "door hinge roller pin". I have included a jpeg file of the hinge pins and door hinge roller pins for identification purposes only. The door hinge roller pins are in the top right corner of the jpeg. This should help to identify the problem, if you have the dealer or a repair shop do the work. If you are a do it yourselfer, YouTube has vids that will help through the hinge pin rebuild. The spring compression tool is needed in order to remove and reinstall the spring. Greasing, as indicated in earlier posts, is a very short term fix as it does not address the fact that the roller pin is beyond the benefit of lubrication and requires actual replacement. When I replaced mine, the roller was not even close to being parallel to the pin. If you have vertical movement or sagging on the door that no longer aligns (tough to close because of sagging), best to replace the hinge pins and bushings at the same time.
Last edited by cragit; December 15th, 2014 at 8:01 AM.
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