Engine swap - is it worth it?
October 5th, 2020, 1:07 PM
#1
Engine swap - is it worth it?
Hi, all.
I have a 2009 Suburban 5.3L that I absolutely love. It is perfect for our family: white, tan leather interior, rear entertainment, Z71, HD towing package, etc... Unfortunately, this truck is burning oil badly, especially when I tow my 18' travel trailer. By that, I mean: I drove 525 miles towing last weekend, and it needed a quart of oil after that. Then I drove back and it needed a quarter after the return trip. It's getting pretty bad at this point.
I have about 195k on this thing, and other than having loose suspension (expected at that mileage), it is in very good condition. The two rear-door window switches work for down only (driver's panel works fine for those windows), but other than that and burning oil, there's nothing wrong with it.
As such, I have zero plans to replace it.
But I'm also getting tired of dumping oil into it. And I know that dumping oil into it at this rate is destroying the catalytic converter and is probably damaging other things. So, the sooner I fix this, the better.
I'm trying to work through whether it is worth swapping the engine (and maybe the transmission, while I'm having the engine done). I'm currently running 15w40 oil; I started using that with the hopes that it would help stem the oil-burning, but it isn't working. So, I really should probably fix (replace) the engine.
I was directed to Powertrain Products: https://www.powertrainproducts.net/C...k-p/l5307a.htm
That plus labor, and I'm looking at around $6,000 for just the engine, or $8,000 for the engine and transmission. But then it would be set for as long as I would care to own it.
I bought this thing a year ago (literally, 51 weeks ago this week) at a really good price, knowing it had some issues. I bought it with the hopes that it would last me at least a year. It did that, so I'm good there. But now this issue really is getting a lot worse, probably because I'm towing with it.
The way I figure it, I can't buy a Suburban for $8k, so I should do it. Even adding the $8k to what I paid and have done so far, I'm only at $16k for this thing, so I think I have done okay.
I would love to get some feedback from the crowd here.
Thanks.
Edited to add: That might be the wrong engine, but their other 5.3L engine is the same price. I would of course confirm before purchase.
I have a 2009 Suburban 5.3L that I absolutely love. It is perfect for our family: white, tan leather interior, rear entertainment, Z71, HD towing package, etc... Unfortunately, this truck is burning oil badly, especially when I tow my 18' travel trailer. By that, I mean: I drove 525 miles towing last weekend, and it needed a quart of oil after that. Then I drove back and it needed a quarter after the return trip. It's getting pretty bad at this point.
I have about 195k on this thing, and other than having loose suspension (expected at that mileage), it is in very good condition. The two rear-door window switches work for down only (driver's panel works fine for those windows), but other than that and burning oil, there's nothing wrong with it.
As such, I have zero plans to replace it.
But I'm also getting tired of dumping oil into it. And I know that dumping oil into it at this rate is destroying the catalytic converter and is probably damaging other things. So, the sooner I fix this, the better.
I'm trying to work through whether it is worth swapping the engine (and maybe the transmission, while I'm having the engine done). I'm currently running 15w40 oil; I started using that with the hopes that it would help stem the oil-burning, but it isn't working. So, I really should probably fix (replace) the engine.
I was directed to Powertrain Products: https://www.powertrainproducts.net/C...k-p/l5307a.htm
That plus labor, and I'm looking at around $6,000 for just the engine, or $8,000 for the engine and transmission. But then it would be set for as long as I would care to own it.
I bought this thing a year ago (literally, 51 weeks ago this week) at a really good price, knowing it had some issues. I bought it with the hopes that it would last me at least a year. It did that, so I'm good there. But now this issue really is getting a lot worse, probably because I'm towing with it.
The way I figure it, I can't buy a Suburban for $8k, so I should do it. Even adding the $8k to what I paid and have done so far, I'm only at $16k for this thing, so I think I have done okay.
I would love to get some feedback from the crowd here.
Thanks.
Edited to add: That might be the wrong engine, but their other 5.3L engine is the same price. I would of course confirm before purchase.
Last edited by eagle243; October 5th, 2020 at 1:08 PM. Reason: Added comment about 5.3L engine
October 6th, 2020, 12:02 PM
#2
You paid too much already. Don't spend another dime. Get rid of it.
The following 2 users liked this post by mountainmanjoe:
oilcanhenry (November 5th, 2020),
Silverfox103 (November 6th, 2020)
October 6th, 2020, 12:09 PM
#3
Really? Interesting. At the time it was a good deal; I just had to do the front axle hubs recently, for around $900. Unfortunately I don't have money to replace this right now. 
October 7th, 2020, 3:19 AM
#4
CF Monarch
Try something like "Engine Restore" it won't fix it, but it might slow it down enough to keep your sensors and cat safe for a time.
October 9th, 2020, 5:09 AM
#5
Found this: About the AFM engines
GM engines from the 2007-2011 model years, that run with the Active Fuel Management System are likely to experience the oil consumption problem. Chevroletproblems.com lists some other vehicles that could have the same issue.
Those engines reduce fuel consumption by disabling half of the motor’s cylinders, improving fuel economy. However, there’s a flaw with the system. To keep the pistons cool, a pressure relief valve sprays oil in the cylinder, but it can burn off if the piston’s warm. This causes the carbon build-up seen by dealerships and mechanics.
When the carbon builds up too much, oil consumption begins. If left unchecked, the piston can cause damage within the cylinder because of a large amount of oil being brought into the chamber.
GM parts website explains that GM developed a cover that would keep too much oil from entering the cylinder, so the consumption problem would no longer occur. It seems to have fixed a lot of trucks since the complaints have almost stopped.
If you find yourself in the same boat as other Chevy Silverado 1500 drivers, consult the dealership you bought the truck from or go to a trusted mechanic. If you’re experiencing the same symptoms, like an oil tainted spark plug, and loss of 2 or more quarts between oil changes, you’ll want to get it fixed as soon as possible.
Now, if this fix doesn’t work, another solution is to try disabling the Active Fuel Management System. This should help the motor run smoothly without the need to spray extra oil into the deactivated chambers. To do this, you’ll need an after-market device that will allow you to take control of the engine’s module programming so you can deactivate the fuel management system.
Since those problematic years, GM finally listened and revamped its engines. Now the newer model years of the Silverado 1500 will have improved engines installed that don’t have this issue.
GM engines from the 2007-2011 model years, that run with the Active Fuel Management System are likely to experience the oil consumption problem. Chevroletproblems.com lists some other vehicles that could have the same issue.
Those engines reduce fuel consumption by disabling half of the motor’s cylinders, improving fuel economy. However, there’s a flaw with the system. To keep the pistons cool, a pressure relief valve sprays oil in the cylinder, but it can burn off if the piston’s warm. This causes the carbon build-up seen by dealerships and mechanics.
When the carbon builds up too much, oil consumption begins. If left unchecked, the piston can cause damage within the cylinder because of a large amount of oil being brought into the chamber.
GM parts website explains that GM developed a cover that would keep too much oil from entering the cylinder, so the consumption problem would no longer occur. It seems to have fixed a lot of trucks since the complaints have almost stopped.
If you find yourself in the same boat as other Chevy Silverado 1500 drivers, consult the dealership you bought the truck from or go to a trusted mechanic. If you’re experiencing the same symptoms, like an oil tainted spark plug, and loss of 2 or more quarts between oil changes, you’ll want to get it fixed as soon as possible.
Now, if this fix doesn’t work, another solution is to try disabling the Active Fuel Management System. This should help the motor run smoothly without the need to spray extra oil into the deactivated chambers. To do this, you’ll need an after-market device that will allow you to take control of the engine’s module programming so you can deactivate the fuel management system.
Since those problematic years, GM finally listened and revamped its engines. Now the newer model years of the Silverado 1500 will have improved engines installed that don’t have this issue.
October 9th, 2020, 11:02 AM
#6
Got my '11 with 35k miles on it. Immediately I installed the Range AFM eliminator, at 111k miles now, only use a full synth. oil and when it's time for a oil change going by the monitor it's only used a half quart. Usually that's 6 to 7k miles depending on how much towing it does.
October 9th, 2020, 11:16 AM
#7
Since I have never owned the newer rigs with the AFM set up, I know a little about what problems they cause and that there are eliminator kits to be had, but I don't know the costs of them. I am very sure that it is way less than the new engine for this rig. The trans can be done separately. These 5.3 engines are easily 300k mile engines depending on the maintenance history. The Range AFM eliminator I am sure is even less expensive. I doubt you are burning oil but a compression test done as I recommended and a wet test if needed, can pin it down.
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October 9th, 2020, 11:29 AM
#8
Since I have never owned the newer rigs with the AFM set up, I know a little about what problems they cause and that there are eliminator kits to be had, but I don't know the costs of them. I am very sure that it is way less than the new engine for this rig. The trans can be done separately. These 5.3 engines are easily 300k mile engines depending on the maintenance history. The Range AFM eliminator I am sure is even less expensive. I doubt you are burning oil but a compression test done as I recommended and a wet test if needed, can pin it down.
Not worried at all about a little consumption, took my old '99 Yuk 5.7 to 190k miles with the same consumption and it was still on the road 2 yrs later after selling it. Rust killed it in the end, friend of a friend had bought it and abused it and never touched the drivetrain in that time.
I'm a old school motorhead who is big on maintenance.
October 9th, 2020, 11:32 AM
#9
Half qt. is just fine for my mileage. When I got the truck I read up on the AFM lifter issues and bought the eliminator. I think it was $150 , less money than a cam and lifters for sure not to mention time spent turning wrenches.
Not worried at all about a little consumption, took my old '99 Yuk 5.7 to 190k miles with the same consumption and it was still on the road 2 yrs later after selling it. Rust killed it in the end, friend of a friend had bought it and abused it and never touched the drivetrain in that time.
I'm a old school motorhead who is big on maintenance.
Not worried at all about a little consumption, took my old '99 Yuk 5.7 to 190k miles with the same consumption and it was still on the road 2 yrs later after selling it. Rust killed it in the end, friend of a friend had bought it and abused it and never touched the drivetrain in that time.
I'm a old school motorhead who is big on maintenance.
The following users liked this post:
kevlar55 (November 7th, 2020)
November 3rd, 2020, 1:56 PM
#10
Well, I don't know what's going on, but the truck hasn't lost oil in 5-6 weeks. It normally would have been down 1-2 quarts by now... I guess I'll call this "good enough."