Tahoe 2003:
Just R/R the rear fuel filler pipe/vent combination assembly.

The assembly is secured to the rear cross frame by a metal strap that requires to be bolted to the top of the cross frame.
I removed the original 13mm hex bolt. Did a prior PB Blaster soak for 24 hours on the bolt . It came out w/o much difficulty, felt normally tight.
As I replaced the original bolt, which still appeared intact, I realized that the bolt was not grabbing any threads, it would not tighten.

Of course the cross frame is built as a box that may or may not contain a secret nut welded inside the frame.
Or perhaps the cross frame is supposed to have threads which grab the 13mm bolt and now the threads are stripped by rust for 23 years.

I dropped the bolt into the cross frame hole that is supposed to have threads and then zip tied the filler pipe strap to the cross frame until I get this resolved correctly.

13mm bolt secures fuel filler pipe strap to rear cross member, but bolt does not grab anything.

Zip ties to secure the new filler pipe strap which is sitting on top of the rear cross frame .

What is going on here?
Is there a missing welded nut or is the frame supposed to have threads to grab the 13mm bolt?

 

Maybe get a new bolt and tap the hole visible next to it? Or use a self tapping bolt in the adjacent hole??

 

A new self tapping bolt may work. Thank you.

There is not enough head room to tap.
My experience was that while removing the original bolt with a ratchet, I unknowingly ran out of head room and the ratchet touched the overhead metal structure. I had to turn the bolt back in ( no issue) , then removed the bolt with a side wrench. The bolt seemed to still be tight in its threads.
You've got me pondering that neighboring hole. I will test it for threads.
I am doing this w/o a lift , so all is done by feel.
I pushed my camera above my head to snap the photos.

Question :
What is the original method of attachment?
Is there a missing welded nut or did the original threads dissolve with rust?

 

1. Can you drill a hole (larger) from the bottom, under the existing/bad bolt hole, then use a bolt and nut to secure the hose hanger? Yes, you need to use goggles when drilling into that rusty cross member, and may need a larger washer on the bottom side.

2. My other idea was to bolt the hanger to a makeshift bracket.

3. And my last idea id to use a long hose clamp (open up and slide over the cross member) to secure that fuel hanger.

 

All workable ideas.
The easiest method might be a self -tapping thicker bolt.

Drilling into lower floor of frame might work if thicker bolt fails.
I do not like electrical stuff near fuel tank , so I may persevere other options.

Thank you ,all.
Still hoping to learn what the original setup was before I started tinkering with R/R of that bolt.

 

I like the self tapping bolt idea and if you get one in there I would still do the long hose clamp as well. With all that rust I would also check where the metal tab attaches at the pipe. Really, as long as the existing bolt stays in that hole the zip tie(s) can hold metal tab down and no allow the tab to slip sideways, because the bolt head will not allow it to. When I see rust like that I am so glad I live where I live with no rust issues.

 

Zip ties can get brittle and break over time, and heat seems to be a factor.