Hi, I decided to invite 2 friends over and after checking the problem out, I had both guys push down and wiggle the module while I used a flat screw driver and poked the o ring in under the top lip of the module to set down in between the tank and the shoulder of the module. Little by little the module sat down. I started the snap ring on one end and slowly got it to lock under the tabs as I moved my way around. The last inch or so of the snap ring did not want to slip under the lock tab so we tapped it under with a screw driver while the guys were pushing down on the module. It finally locked into place. What a chore this was. I am glad this part is done. I have installed gas tanks and sending units for many years on different cars thru the years. I can say the old metal sending units with the rotating lock rings were much easier to work with then these new plastic units. Hope the new stainless fuel lines install with no issues. Thanks.

 

Hi, I went out today and removed the fuel lines from the chassis. I removed them from the tank up to the mid frame connectors. The lines were rusty from where the flexible part of the lines mate to the steel line. Just over the rear frame arch they look great but did not want to chance it. What a chore that was. Those plastic blocks (3) that hold all the lines both brake electrical and fuel were a bear to get the lines off them. I worked each line one by one off until I got them all off. I had to make a replacement vapor line as nobody makes one . I will start to install them in the morning to see how difficult they are to reinstall. With 90 degree days in the sun this is not a fun job but has to be completed hopefully by the weekend.

 

Hi all. Today I installed the new lines in their plastic blocks. I fed the flexible ends in first from the front to the back in the frame and it made thing easier. I assume these lines were installed on the assembly line with the body off the chassis. Would have been a 5 minute job that way. Fitting the lines in the plastic blocks was a chore in itself. The one over the rear axle was difficult to do. I had to unbolt the left rear shock to get the block to sit properly. It started to rain heavily so I quit for the day. Tomorrow I will finish up tweaking the lines to sit correctly and make up the new rubber fuel vapor line that attaches to the two fuel tank check valves . Then I will replace the lines from the unions under the left rear door up to the fuel filter. I believe I can then reinstall the new tank up under the truck and finish up under there.

 

Hi all. Finally got the gas tank back in the truck. Had 2 other folks helping me to get it up under there. Very tight situation to do. Got tank partially jacked up on the left and was barley able to get the 2 electrical plugs and the feed and return lines on the module working from the right. Once they were connected we centered the tank on a jack and raised it up slowly to center it in the front and rear saddles. I then had to fish my hands up under the left and connect the 1/4 inch vapor line to the rubber lines from the tank and get a clamp on that. I then fished the big fuel filler hose up over the frame and slide it over the tank neck and get a clamp there. I used a bit of glycerine to help the hoses slip on correctly. I stopped for the day and had to pull a mid 1980's Ford pick up truck (OT) 4 speed transmission out to install a new clutch kit. Tomorrow I will finish up the fuel tank filler neck connected to the hoses and finish that phase of the job. I ran into trouble as the new complete Stainless steel fuel line kit I bought has 2 lines bent incorrectly from the union fitting under the left rear door up along the frame up to the fuel filter and flex lines up to the engine. Called the company and awaiting an answer. I sent them photos of the OEM lines and theirs they made.The rear most 12 inches of both lines that connect to the unions are bent totally opposite of what I need. May have to send my lines with the new incorrect ones to get this resolved hopefully. Long day today but got more done in the searing sun and heat. Thanks.

 

Hi all, got a phone call from tubing vendor today. New lines with my old OEM ones on their way back. Next week I will stick them in to see how they fit. If this works out well I will tackle the 2 front lines from the fuel filter in the frame up to the engine as described above . Hoping those 2 lines are correct and not a big chore to install.

 

Here are a few photos I took.




The original tank was rusty. This truck came from Texas and never saw a winter up here but after 25 years guess it was time for a new tank.

 

Hi all. Got 2 new lines back. got them in where they belong. Thought I was home free but when i screwed in the new fuel filter to the new feed line it did not bottom out. Felt weird so tried sever times. Took my old filter and that one screwed in correctly. Had to return the new filter and get another one. Looks like the returned filter had a rolled thread on it. Everything fell into place and should be done. I am going to take a break and hold off installing the 2 front flex lines as I hear they are a challenge to install. So now going to put in about 10 gallons of gas and see if I have any leaks before I drop the truck down off the horses. Will post my progress. Thanks again for your guidance on this. Appreciate the help.

 

Did the original plug on the vehicle fit the new fuel pump or did you have to splice in a new one?

 

Hi the original plug was the old style 2x2 style. I had to cut that plug off and install the flat 4 style plug on. I spliced the new plug wires to the truck harness by soldering them and had shrink tube over splice. No way using those cheap butt joint connectors. . You have to use the commercial available tool to unlock the OEM fuel lines which were a SOB to get into the end of the lines as there is little space to get the tool in there. After several failed attempts I first cut the plastic style round tool in half and tried to fit each one into the end. No go so I decided to take apart the metal style tool you can buy by removing the center bolt. I slid in both halves and then put a new screw and nut in the center pivot. Then I was able to wiggle the end of the metal lines off. The replacement flex lines have a plastic end. These lines have clips on both sides that you depress and the line slides on fuel pump and locks on. So no tool needed. The new ends are I assume sturdy and will see how they last. Would have preferred the metal OEM ones. And I was able to get the truck started. Took a few tries but finally ran. New OEM pump very quiet. It only took about 10 seconds for the pump to fill the lines up. Going to fill the tank up this weekend and check for any other leaks. Hopefully not. This job is completed. I will tackle the 2 flex lines from the front of the chassis up to the engine later as those lines look great. Understanding will have to pull left front tire, pull wheel house to get the old ones out and new ones in. Even hear you may have to cut the hard tubing and install compression fitting to get them in. Will see about that. I thank the forum for all the great input and help. on this project. Appreciate it.

 

Hi an update. We took the Suburban on a 800 mile trip to Baltimore Md. Filled the tank up 3/4 going down and no leaks or smell. Leaving Baltimore coming home decided to fill the tank right up. No leaks or smell. You could not hear the fuel pump as it is wispier quiet. Thanks to the forum for all the great help and tips. Appreciate it.