FUEL PUMP INSTALL - Chevrolet Forum - Chevy Enthusiasts Forums
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 8

March 26th, 2007, 8:32 PM   #1  

Hey whats up everyone. I drive a 2002 tahoe LS, while i was i stopped in idle yesterday the car stalled hard and then shut off, i tired to start the engine over and over but it sounded like it wasnt getting any gas. i called a mechanic friend of mine and explained the issue. he said he was 98% sure it was the fuel pump. he said i should get underneath and bang on the fuel tank to see if it would trigger the pump. I did as he explained and the truck started and hasnt stalled since. i want to replace the fuel pump just to be on the safe side, however i do not have and extended warranty on it. i am curious if anyone has done this install, and if it is fairly easy or should it be left to a mechanic..i have done previous work on my truck like change the oil, filters, spark plugs, ign wires, distrib.caps etc, but i have never changed a fuel pump nor do i know where it would be located. im guessing inside the tank? any tips on replacing the pump? and or any reccomndations on which pump to buy or what i should do?..thanks

Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 8

March 26th, 2007, 11:56 PM   #2  


Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 16

March 27th, 2007, 12:28 AM   #3  

I replaced them on my '88 Silverado, '95 Caprice Wagon and '96 Impala SS.
Here is an over view of the job:
> Get as much gas out of the tank as possible
> remove / unattached the filler neck so itís not attached to the car.
> slightly lower the tank by loosening the straps that hold it up
> disconnect the fuel lines and electrical connections
> drop tank the rest of the way
> remove fuel sending unit from tank
> replace fuel pump and/or sending unit

You should probably get the service manuals to help. The labor yousave will recoup the cost.
This info is only good to let you know what some of the major steps may be involved. Several minor steps have been left out...



Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 424

March 27th, 2007, 12:37 AM   #4  

I had to do this on a 98 Suburban recently. I bought the fuel pump myself cheap off eBay and paid a mechanic with a hydraulic lift and a tall transmission jack $100 to drop the tank and install the new pump. I'm glad I did. I do most all of my own workand have donetwo in-tank fuel pump installs on cars, but this was a tough job and it would have taken me hours to do the same thing he did in just over one hour. My Suburban has a 42 gallon tank. Does the Tahoe have that? Whether it does or not, it'sa tedious job, especially lying on your back in the driveway.

Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 109

March 27th, 2007, 1:49 AM   #5  

yup... You can do it if you want to save the cash! Ask around for some help - dont go to a dealer. See if a local shop wil drop the tank for $100... They a have the lift and tools that make the job easy.. As before, on your back is no fun with 3-7 gals of gas splashing around as you lower the tank... Floor jack at min and dont try it alone, you need a buddy that will work for free to help you. Non-smokers are the best for this task!!!!

Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 8

March 27th, 2007, 4:08 AM   #6  

thanks guys, looks like i got something to do do on the weekend..since the weather has not been cooperating to get any fishing done..thanks for the help

Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 3

March 28th, 2007, 10:41 PM   #7  

[align=left]Just did it this weekend in our 96 Tahoe(34 gallon tank).

About a 6 on the ten point scale for difficulty.

You need a special tool to release the fuel lines and have to bleed off the pressuer in the system.

Overall draining the tank is the worst part. The tool was $9.00 and the pump was $200. The dealer will want $6-800.


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Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 1

September 18th, 2007, 9:08 PM   #8  

Hi Folks,

I just finished changing the fuel pump in my 99 tahoe, and would like to share some things that I learned along the way. Make sure your not dealing with a bad relay (In the driver side engine compartment) before you go through the nightmare of dropping the tank.
These instructions are for the sorry sucker like myself who is going to perform this job in their drive way.Hopefully these instructions will help somebody. It would have saved me about 2 hours of work.
1) Chalk your front wheels and then raise your vehicle from the differential (center rear axle) high enough to crawl under.
2) Disconnect and remove the filler hose and vent/overflow hose located at the rear of your tank. (I know the worm gear clamps are facing up.!)
3) If your tank is not bone dry, now is the time to syphone or pump all the fuel you can get out through the large opening.
4)Remove the little wire bracket that is holding the 2 brake lines in the way on the rear driver side rail. 13mm(They will fight you until you do)
5) Loosen the 2ea 15mm bolts thathold the straps in place. Very important...!! Remove the 2 straps all of the way by rotating them 90 degres, and then pull them down. I had my tank jammed between the straps and the rail, so trust me, take 2 minutes andget them outta da way.!!
6) Drop the tank low enough tobe able todisconnect everyhting remaining. Fronthose (small plastic hose with a wierd fitting. good luck here I nearly destroyed mine removing it.) The 2 fuel linesandconnector at the pump, and the rear connector.
7) The fuel lines at the pump kicked my littlerump for 11 rounds. I ended up breaking them off with pliers andthen removed them properly after the tank was out of my way.Yes, I bought the 12 dollar tool which makes it possible...not easy. Everyhting should be disconnected now..
8)Raise your floor jack that is under the diferential until the wheels are about 8 inches off the ground. Drop the rear part of the tank first, then the front. Your tank will slide ride out from under the rear axle. (I cannot possibly understand how people try and change this pump andconnector while it is trapped under the car.)
9) Grab a beer.The hard part is over.Vacuum the dirt from the top of your pump, before and after you remove it. Otherwise your 100,000 miles of road grime will end up in your tank.Wires..wires.. I had to change my connector due to a slightly different pump. Maybe I got lucky, because the colors DO NOT MATCH. I conntected grey to grey, purple to purple, small black to small blak, and orange to large black. Test this before you re-install everything. Fuel reading should be Empty, and you should be able to hear your pump for a few seconds when you turn the keyon.
Good luck people.. I hope you have a much easier time than I did... I learned these tricks after 5 hours of fighting.. I had a check engine light after I finished the job. Disconnected the battery for 20 minutes to reset the codes, and then it never came back.


Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 424

September 19th, 2007, 8:16 AM   #9  

1a. Put jack stands under the frame before crawling under the vehicle.

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Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 1

January 31st, 2009, 5:29 PM   #10  
I had other info to put small blk to large blk orange to small blk will that. My tahoe is 1999 4 door.

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