Help with 02 suburban over heating and AC
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alright so when i spray the ac condensor with water it drops down to 45 psi green level and when its running and dont shoot it with water it goes up 50+ is that the consensor ? Or am i getting some false results
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And real services gauges are a MUST for doing work like this.
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which fan? I just have one big one. I doubt the fan clutch is bad. What is radiator shrouding?
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also gialsg it a good hose down front and bottom cleaning it would that solve the issue? Not enough air flow?
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also is the ac condensor suppost to be hot or cold to the touch?
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When you go out to say hello to your vehicle in the morning, the condenser will be about the temperature of the environment.
When the AC is switched on and operating properly, the condenser will be quite HOT, it sheds its heat to the incoming air. Inside the condenser the refrigerant cools to change from a hot gas (discharge or high side of compressor) to a hot liquid. When this liquid meters through an orifice tube or expansion valve into the evaporator, it changes into a gas by pulling heat from the evaporator. Look up air conditioning cycle on Google, there's a lot to learn Grasshopper !
When the AC is switched on and operating properly, the condenser will be quite HOT, it sheds its heat to the incoming air. Inside the condenser the refrigerant cools to change from a hot gas (discharge or high side of compressor) to a hot liquid. When this liquid meters through an orifice tube or expansion valve into the evaporator, it changes into a gas by pulling heat from the evaporator. Look up air conditioning cycle on Google, there's a lot to learn Grasshopper !
Thread Starter
CF Junior Member
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When you go out to say hello to your vehicle in the morning, the condenser will be about the temperature of the environment.
When the AC is switched on and operating properly, the condenser will be quite HOT, it sheds its heat to the incoming air. Inside the condenser the refrigerant cools to change from a hot gas (discharge or high side of compressor) to a hot liquid. When this liquid meters through an orifice tube or expansion valve into the evaporator, it changes into a gas by pulling heat from the evaporator. Look up air conditioning cycle on Google, there's a lot to learn Grasshopper !
When the AC is switched on and operating properly, the condenser will be quite HOT, it sheds its heat to the incoming air. Inside the condenser the refrigerant cools to change from a hot gas (discharge or high side of compressor) to a hot liquid. When this liquid meters through an orifice tube or expansion valve into the evaporator, it changes into a gas by pulling heat from the evaporator. Look up air conditioning cycle on Google, there's a lot to learn Grasshopper !
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When I had a compressor seize while driving along, it just stopped turning and the belts started squealing and burning. But if compressor was very tough to turn, I could see that producing more friction heat and requiring more engine load.
Hopefully that mechanic knows what he is doing. Personally, I would go for the new Denso compressor, OEM instead of Delco. Note there are versions for dual air, and just front air. I have replaced the compressor in my 2005 Yukon (dual air) and that was successful and straightforward, maybe 5 years ago, Arizona.
Here's what the expert on the radio says (for all repairs): Tell mechanic that you'll pay for a fix but not a guess, as he's assumed to have expertise. Pay with a credit card, and ask for your old parts back; if his repair doesn't fix it, dispute the charge with the credit card company.
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That could be the cause if the compressor was taking extra effort of the engine to spin it. Just because I am not experienced with that condition doesn't mean it cannot happen.
When I had a compressor seize while driving along, it just stopped turning and the belts started squealing and burning. But if compressor was very tough to turn, I could see that producing more friction heat and requiring more engine load.
Hopefully that mechanic knows what he is doing. Personally, I would go for the new Denso compressor, OEM instead of Delco. Note there are versions for dual air, and just front air. I have replaced the compressor in my 2005 Yukon (dual air) and that was successful and straightforward, maybe 5 years ago, Arizona.
Here's what the expert on the radio says (for all repairs): Tell mechanic that you'll pay for a fix but not a guess, as he's assumed to have expertise. Pay with a credit card, and ask for your old parts back; if his repair doesn't fix it, dispute the charge with the credit card company.
When I had a compressor seize while driving along, it just stopped turning and the belts started squealing and burning. But if compressor was very tough to turn, I could see that producing more friction heat and requiring more engine load.
Hopefully that mechanic knows what he is doing. Personally, I would go for the new Denso compressor, OEM instead of Delco. Note there are versions for dual air, and just front air. I have replaced the compressor in my 2005 Yukon (dual air) and that was successful and straightforward, maybe 5 years ago, Arizona.
Here's what the expert on the radio says (for all repairs): Tell mechanic that you'll pay for a fix but not a guess, as he's assumed to have expertise. Pay with a credit card, and ask for your old parts back; if his repair doesn't fix it, dispute the charge with the credit card company.
