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Old July 24th, 2015, 4:33 PM
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HELP - Service Stabilitrak & Service Traction Control

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Old January 8th, 2023, 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by MtEvansSnowboarder
I'm looking for some help, and after having read through all 4 pages, I can't find anything similar to my situation, so here I am. I have a 2013 Suburban with 160k miles on it. It has ran great and given us little to no issues until this past summer. It started when the bushing came out of the transmission switch. I attempted to replace the bushing myself with a 3rd party brand as Chevy has changed the setup and required $500 in parts and labor. After my fix not working along with a mechanic's attempt, I paid the dealership to do the fix. A few weeks later, we were 2 hours into a 3.5 trip to go camping in the middle of nowhere CO. I had come to a complete stop and when I started accelerating it had a hard shift. A little while later, the Stabilitrak and Traction Control message came on to service them and that they weren't working. At the same time, the line under which position the transmission was in was not showing, which I found odd. The car also would barely move, like less than 1st gear, which leads me to believe it didn't downshift and I was stuck in a high gear. I let the car cool down and we were able to get into the closest town where the problem persisted. Once the car cooled down completely, this wasn't an issue. It would only become an issue after ~2 hours of driving. Considering the circumstances, I didn't trust taking it to a local mechanic, so I took it to a dealership. The dealership confirmed the codes but couldn't determine the reasoning for it. They offered a couple of suggestions, which considering the age of our Suburban and the 20+ miles of dirt roads we drive every day, I proceeded with doing, they included replacing a thermometer sensor and the Transmission Control Module. My wife drove the suburban from Colorado to Tennessee to Indiana, back to TN and then back to CO without any issues. Today, while driving back from a family ski day, after about 2 hours of driving, it all happened again. It started with the Transmission Overheating and needing to idle the engine. After 15 minutes of idle and the situation not changing, I turned the engine off, waited 15 minutes and then started the engine and continued driving home. Not even 2 minutes of driving and the transmission overheating message reappeared for 5 minutes followed by the Stabilitrak and Traction Control messages coming on that they were turned off. I crawled home, most likely stuck in a high gear again. We do live just shy of 10k feet in elevation and drive up and down a lot of mountains, but never in an aggressive manner and not in a way that should overwhelm the engine/transmission. So I come to the group, with the hopes that someone might be able to shed some light on our situation and find a way to get another 65k miles out of it before we considering a replacement. Thoughts, please?
Only thought I can think of, is it possibly an overheated transmission? Sounds like it just can’t keep it cool enough. Maybe this can help?

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qM-it1z0_VA&t=1095s

Old January 8th, 2023, 10:49 PM
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MtEvansSnowboarder Welcome to the forum. Sounds like the dealer didn't fix it so I'd take it back.
Old April 2nd, 2023, 3:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Julia Garcia
So I have had my ST light, Check Engine light and my TC Off light come on so many times that I can't remember. I have an 07 Tahoe LT. I have taken to the dealer at least 4 differnt times. The first and maybe the second time it was still inder warrenty but it wasn't covered. The third time I spent about 600$...this last time no charge because they "felt" bad that I kept having the problem and that was 4 weeks ago and the lights have all come on again this morning. The transmission shifts so hard and it feels as if I'm losing power. On my last visit...the dealer tells me that it was cause by the Gas that I'm putting into my car. He says that computer says that I have too much "alcohol" in my gas tank and that I should stick to one gas station so that my car dosn't get confused. Or if I have to get gas at another station, to drive my car at least 7 miles so that it has time to recognize the change. I use regular gas mainly bought from Kroger Fuel Center. This sounds crazy to me. Well, I have done as instructed and my lights are on again. This is not just frustrating but scary when I have to deal with it. Especially when I have an toddler in the car.
Saty with the same Fuel Station? What a FN moron. Ur system adjusts to a whole helluva lot. Some mechanics….
Old April 2nd, 2023, 6:11 PM
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Default 07 tahoe

I had this issue on my 07 Silverado and it ended up being caused by a collapsed lifter on cylinder #4 and produce a P0304 fault code
And ALL the same symptoms as you are describing . Do you know anyone with a code reader that can access your Diagnostic Link to check your computer for stored diagnostic codes ?
Most Parts Stores like Autozone , Advance , ’Reilly s PEP Boys and such have code readers and will pull those codes for you for free .
You need to right them down .

Then you need a reliable shop to do proper diagnostics to know where to go from there .

In my case because the engine was already near 200,000 miles and because a local rebuild would cost more than a remanufactured engine . I did a Long Block Remanufactured engine swap .
I used their installation kit and upgraded to their available Gold warranty . It’ll be 4 years in Sept and the engine from “Powertrain Companies “ has not skipped a beat .
You need the codes and at least a compression test of all cylinders . to make an informed choice as to how to proceed .
Old May 27th, 2023, 8:52 AM
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I did this. My issues were stabilitrak light intermittantly, then after running for awhile in winter it would almost die when I put it in park. If I started it again after it sat for a couple of hours it would be fine......My issue seemed to have been electrical, specifically ground wires. The braided ground cables corrode and there is less and less current getting back to the battery.
Actual GM Service bulletin. Lots of youtube videos on replacing the grounds.
Attached Files
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Old September 2nd, 2023, 12:29 AM
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Originally Posted by 08Avalanche
Speaking from experience, 99% chance the scanner is gonna indicate a misfire. This by itself not very helpful - many things can cause a misfire. Does the problem go away at all or is it all the time? Does your Tahoe have AFM? My problem was caused by one of the AFM lifters sticking open - causing no compression - hence the misfire. Dealer replaced all of the lifters on that side of the motor. Weeks later same problem returned, in the end they wound up changing the plugs - problem solved.
What did it cost to replace the Lifters?
Old September 2nd, 2023, 12:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Hunter53
What is an ‘AFM’? I am having my engine replaced with the same exact one but remanufactured. I’m assuming these codes will go away and not come back after the swap? (All sorts of internal problems in the current engine)
What did the remanufactured engine cost? What was the cost of installing the engine?
Old September 2nd, 2023, 3:31 PM
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Originally Posted by tfdavid
What did the remanufactured engine cost? What was the cost of installing the engine?
I don't think you're going to hear back from this person. Call Jasper engines and see how much they want for your engine. Then call your local shop and ask for a time estimate and labour rate. I'm going to say at least $6k
Old September 2nd, 2023, 9:11 PM
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Originally Posted by mountainmanjoe
I don't think you're going to hear back from this person. Call Jasper engines and see how much they want for your engine. Then call your local shop and ask for a time estimate and labour rate. I'm going to say at least $6k
Thank you for your reply.

I did get for a couple for some re-manufacturer engine. The question I think I need Lifters probably both banks. Should I just replace the Lifters only if there are no other problems rather than purchasing a re-manufacturer engine.
Old September 3rd, 2023, 12:05 AM
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No. If you're going to pull the engine out, you might as well put a remanufactured one back in. New bearings, new seals, new everything. Get the best bang for your buck, and enjoy many more years of reliable service from the engine.


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