Tahoedav

Bad brake switch will cause Stab/ABS/Trailer fault Check your codes if it says simply "ABS" change it. Fixed mine got OEM switch.

Hunter53

What is an ‘AFM’? I am having my engine replaced with the same exact one but remanufactured. I’m assuming these codes will go away and not come back after the swap? (All sorts of internal problems in the current engine)

1thalia2

hello i remover the fuse for stablizer and lights still on but truck rives good for 2 weeks now

rldavid71

3 BMWs, 3 Jeeps, 02 T-Bird, 63 T-Bird, 66 Chevy C20, Avalanche w/factory Corvette LS and Cadillac XLR. Other than regular and preventive maintenance on all vehicles, primarily by me, computer puzzles, resulting in a rewiring design of XLR for dangerous, common issue identified in Corvettes and XLR, with study by two GM Engineers I paid for, only repetitive computer related frustrations are the GM products.

And this goes back years to many other vehicles I've owned.

RDkill

I had a bad misfire on #4 also changed plug and wire on #4 instantly gone repeated with 1-3 5-8 ran great for 80K miles

DaDamnDell

My truck runs fine until it doesn’t.. lol.. nah, In idle, or at lower speeds, the TC light comes on and the truck starts to reduce power. I had Chevy inspect it and they didn’t know what to do. One thing I note is that when the oil meter gets low, it acts weird, but it fluctuates throughout idle until it dies out. Usually when it gets under that quarter marker.

ChevyBabe970

I had this issue on my 2011 Chevy Suburban. Both the traction control and Stabilitrak lights were on almost right after I bought the vehicle. I tried many things such as replacing different sensors Etc until I decided to take it down to Chevy dealership. They literally tried to offer me $1,000 for my truck and told me that I would need a new engine LOL! I laughed at the guy told him I'd rather drive through their showroom floor and was insulted, I mean who wouldn't be. I realized I still had an extended warranty and caught it right before it ended. I took it to a mechanic in my town and he dug into my engine. I kept having a misfire on cylinder 2 and I replaced the coil pack and still no change. After digging in to the engine he seen oil that was leaking and I ended up having to replace all 16 Pistons and the camshaft as it had been dug into and was not smooth. It cost me all about $300 because of that warranty and because I had had routine oil changes which I could prove who's the only reason why my insurance paid for it. That fixed the problem.

tmoore8601

did u ever find the answer?

spockling

New to the Forum, have a 2018 Silverado Crew Cab Z71, and started having an issue in "bitter" cold (-30C), engine would run rough then stall when put into park. Maybe? found the issue with this bulletin? I have cleaned the grounds, and added one from the battery to the chassis, and another from the engine to the chassis. Can't access the starter yet. Next time I take it in to my mechanic. Here is the bulletin I found. Hope it helps someone.
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...68185-9999.pdf

MtEvansSnowboarder

I'm looking for some help, and after having read through all 4 pages, I can't find anything similar to my situation, so here I am. I have a 2013 Suburban with 160k miles on it. It has ran great and given us little to no issues until this past summer. It started when the bushing came out of the transmission switch. I attempted to replace the bushing myself with a 3rd party brand as Chevy has changed the setup and required $500 in parts and labor. After my fix not working along with a mechanic's attempt, I paid the dealership to do the fix. A few weeks later, we were 2 hours into a 3.5 trip to go camping in the middle of nowhere CO. I had come to a complete stop and when I started accelerating it had a hard shift. A little while later, the Stabilitrak and Traction Control message came on to service them and that they weren't working. At the same time, the line under which position the transmission was in was not showing, which I found odd. The car also would barely move, like less than 1st gear, which leads me to believe it didn't downshift and I was stuck in a high gear. I let the car cool down and we were able to get into the closest town where the problem persisted. Once the car cooled down completely, this wasn't an issue. It would only become an issue after ~2 hours of driving. Considering the circumstances, I didn't trust taking it to a local mechanic, so I took it to a dealership. The dealership confirmed the codes but couldn't determine the reasoning for it. They offered a couple of suggestions, which considering the age of our Suburban and the 20+ miles of dirt roads we drive every day, I proceeded with doing, they included replacing a thermometer sensor and the Transmission Control Module. My wife drove the suburban from Colorado to Tennessee to Indiana, back to TN and then back to CO without any issues. Today, while driving back from a family ski day, after about 2 hours of driving, it all happened again. It started with the Transmission Overheating and needing to idle the engine. After 15 minutes of idle and the situation not changing, I turned the engine off, waited 15 minutes and then started the engine and continued driving home. Not even 2 minutes of driving and the transmission overheating message reappeared for 5 minutes followed by the Stabilitrak and Traction Control messages coming on that they were turned off. I crawled home, most likely stuck in a high gear again. We do live just shy of 10k feet in elevation and drive up and down a lot of mountains, but never in an aggressive manner and not in a way that should overwhelm the engine/transmission. So I come to the group, with the hopes that someone might be able to shed some light on our situation and find a way to get another 65k miles out of it before we considering a replacement. Thoughts, please?