My ignition key will frequently not rotate in the cylinder when I try to start my Suburban. So, I have bought a new OEM ignition lock cylinder to replace the worn out one. In my attempt to do the removal and replacement, I immediately ran into the problem of removing the upper an lower covers from the steering column to attain access to allow removal of the lock cylinder. I have viewed a few video's on how to remove these covers yet can't seem to see any torx head screws or others that keep the covers in place. My question is, Are there any screws that hold the covers in place or are they just held in place by clips that need to be gently pried on to remove the covers. The lock cylinder replacement itself seems fairly simple. It's getting access that is problematic.

There are 3 holes on the bottom side cover. However, in examining if any screws of any type are holding the covers together, I could not see any. Wondering if there is a special made tool or if there are pins that need to be pushed up to release the cover.

 

usually its a worn out key that causes this not the lock cylinder. I see this a lot.


here's your info: remove the knee bolster. then tilt lever should pull straight out. there are no screws for the column trim, I give it a short, quick yank. I grab the bottom cover and pull down and to the side

 

Tech2, thanks for the info. Will have a new key cut first and see if the new on is a fix for the sticking lock key cylinder. My Suburban has had a lot of use ( 221,000 + miles ) so I felt it may be the lock cylinder over a worn key. Either way, I will take the having a new key made over the work to replace the ignition lock cylinder.

Thanks again for the info. I will let you know the results.

 

have it cut from a lock code, do not cut it by tracing the old key.

 

Just getting back to let anyone reading this thread that I had a new key cut. The locksmith used a code to cut the new key. After cutting it he tried it in the door lock and then the ignition. It worked on the first try. Could easily tell the difference between the new and old key. All of the high tips of the old key had been worn off. Although I have a new ignition lock that is not in need at this time, I did not have to do the work of replacing the one in the Suburban. Locksmith told me I should spray some aerosol cleaner into the lock cylinder and let it dry then put a small amount of powdered graphite in lock cylinder to act as a dry lubricant. Haven't done that yet and wonder if any of the forum readers have ever done so. Like to know if it's a positive thing to do. And, for everyone's information, the new key was $40 + tax

 

if anyone should know about extending the life of the tumblers, it a locksmith. The new lock cylinder you purchased should come with a lubricant.

 

Do be careful with the graphite, its conductive and too much could cause problems in an ignition switch... I do use it for my home door locks, and the exterior door lock of the truck that rarely ever sees a key

 

The local Chevy dealer cut a key for 2002 Suburban by code, I just brought the registration to the parts dept, for $9 retail - I think they charged me $7. Still had the problem, ordered a new ignition switch from a local locksmith keyed to my keys for about $50. Not to get that damn steering wheel column trim off...