Not sure how yours is setup but the best thing would be to remove positive cable from each one. But if you remove + on one and - on the other, your vehicle should be powerless. But you'll have to disconnect at least one cable on each battery.

Buck up, 12V won't kill you unless you're really grounded and you break the skin. And even then it'll probably only sting you. Skin has too much resistance so you can't get a lethal dose of current. Keep one hand in your pocket.

 

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In fact if anyone here could provide me with the part numbers for this 6A6 option that would help me out big time.

 

hey man all you have to do is go to a welding supply shop ,or farm and fleet ag store and they general have the welding cable by the foot ,that Handel's higher amperage than battery cable and some time's is cheaper .you can also if you have an over abundance of cash buy the right cable from chevy they only hook them up in parallel also .

 

I am currently adding a second battery with isolator.

I got my parts from here: http://www.wranglernw.com/

They have isolators, alternators andlots of neat wiring stuff.

 

So what your saying is that the 6A6 option for the Police/Fire Tahoes isjust a second battery hookup in parallel to the main battery? There is no isolator in this system at all?

 

I guess I should let you guys know that I have the 2007 Suburban LT with the 5.3L Flex Fuel engine. I want to put a Yellow top under the hood of my truck as a second battery for my amplifiers for my stereo. I'm getting conflicting information regarding isolators and what not some say go with them others say its not worth it cause of the power loss. My plan by the end of the summer is to install a second alternator to charge the yellow top and two more batteries. Is it worth me getting the isolator now even though I'll just be hooking up the yellow top directly to the second alternator when I get it? I'd rather be safe and some what okay with my warranty more than anything else.

 

well i am not exactly sure what is included in that package but most truck's do not use isolator's with dual battery isolator's unless their is a system on the truck that needs an uninterrupted power supply (like what you are talking about doing) and still be able to start and run the truck ! i have a 2001 2500hd 4x4 that i plow with and it only came with a single battery ,i checked with a dealer part' man that i was on good term's with and for my truck they onlyu8sed a second tray a positive cable that replaced the original and connected both battery's ,and another ground cable . that positive cable was trick but it was not worth $150.00 to me not to mention the labor to remove the stock one and install the new one (basically a parallel system) hte tray was about $20.00

 

I am installing the second battery with an isolator somy starter battery doesn't get run down when I am listening to the radio etc. My intent is to use a deep cycle for the second battery.

The diode type isolator (which I am using) does have a voltage drop across it so if that is a problem you could use an integrator (relay type isolator).
http://www.boatelectric.com/newbbi100.htm

 

The parts are available from GMparts direct:

Mechanical Catalog - 2007 - Chevrolet/Geo - Tahoe
Electrical, Chassis electrical, Battery, Negative cable, Negative cable, tahoe, yukon, escalade, aux battery, dual battery

Mechanical Catalog - 2007 - Chevrolet/Geo - Tahoe
Electrical, Chassis electrical, Battery, Positive cable, Positive cable, tahoe, yukon, escalade, aux battery, dual battery

For a total of $115. Worth it considering all the extra sub-systems drawing power I have in the truck...