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2013 Chevrolet Suburban
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Old August 4th, 2015, 6:27 PM
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Low Oil Pressure warning

Old January 10th, 2015, 3:42 AM
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Default insistance low oil pressure

About a year ago, I drove the Suburban around 20 miles or so to work in the cold, less than 20 degrees and the engine light came on. Had it read at Auto Zone on my way to work and read low oil pressure. Gauge on cluster panel was below 10. Replaced the sensor and all was well until about 1 week before Christmas. Engine light came on while out in below 20 degrees again, oil pressure low, checked oil level and it also was low. Found it leaking around filter. Drove it home after adding oil to full mark, then noticed a ticking noise started. Changed the oil but noise did not stop. Just got the truck back yesterday afternoon after spending $2500 in new lifters, rods, arms, head gaskets and pressure switch (which they found to be bad after replacing the other internal parts). Drove it this morning again in about -3 degrees to work (20 miles away) and about half way there, once the engine was at optimum heat, oil pressure began to drop. Was staying between 10 and 30, when I parked the car in the lot, was below 10. What the heck?! Could use some input! Shop is closed for the weekend and I have still to drive home and back to work tomorrow....
Old January 11th, 2015, 3:41 PM
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What's your mileage?
This "low oil pressure" thing started happening to my Suburban at around 90k miles. Here's the "cure" I found:
1. Put 1 can of Seafoam in the crankcase, drive around 100 miles, then change the oil and filter.
2. If the problem recurs, which it did for me after about another 2000 miles, repeat the process.
3. Change the oil and filter at 5000 mile intervals at most.
My reasoning is that the oil pickup or intake to the pressure sensor had become clogged with sludge. I am guilty of going about 5k between oil changes which I thought was OK since my truck burns about a quart every 1250 miles. I've become diligent about changing the filter every 3k miles now and I'm up to 106000 without recurrence.
Old January 12th, 2015, 8:37 AM
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Originally Posted by kj08burb
About a year ago, I drove the Suburban around 20 miles or so to work in the cold, less than 20 degrees and the engine light came on. Had it read at Auto Zone on my way to work and read low oil pressure. Gauge on cluster panel was below 10. Replaced the sensor and all was well until about 1 week before Christmas. Engine light came on while out in below 20 degrees again, oil pressure low, checked oil level and it also was low. Found it leaking around filter. Drove it home after adding oil to full mark, then noticed a ticking noise started. Changed the oil but noise did not stop. Just got the truck back yesterday afternoon after spending $2500 in new lifters, rods, arms, head gaskets and pressure switch (which they found to be bad after replacing the other internal parts). Drove it this morning again in about -3 degrees to work (20 miles away) and about half way there, once the engine was at optimum heat, oil pressure began to drop. Was staying between 10 and 30, when I parked the car in the lot, was below 10. What the heck?! Could use some input! Shop is closed for the weekend and I have still to drive home and back to work tomorrow....
My guess is that the low oil condition and the resulting engine damage (as claimed by your mechanic) and the most recent, post-repair low oil pressure reading issue may be unrelated.
Considering that your leak and valve train damage has been rectified, I'd treat them as unrelated to the latest low pressure reading - at least at first.
I agree with Eric Banks when he suggests that a blocked screen/filter at the sender could be causing your latest issue. The Seafoam treatment a hundred miles prior to an oil change is certainly worth a try.
In addition to the Seafoam, another 2 methods for reducing the deposits at the screen that can only benefit your engine are:
  • Change the oil more frequently than the computerized change interval reports (often upwards of 7k miles)
  • Use synthetic oil - or at least synthetic blend from this point forward. Sythetics leave less deposits than conventional oils.
It's my experience that when diagnosing the trouble codes related to a pressure sensor fault, some, if not the majority of mechanics will identify the pressure sensor as being the culprit and suggest replacement, without considering a blocked screen/filter.

Last edited by JPTL; January 12th, 2015 at 8:44 AM.
Old January 12th, 2015, 9:28 AM
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Recently changed o.p. sending unit on 08 Tahoe w/120k after getting 0 readings on pressure. Pulled small basket type screen filter. Held it up to light and noticed it partially blocked. Cleaned it with brake cleaner and noticed a big difference. Put back together,changed oil (syn.) and filter and no problems since(knock on wood)
Old January 12th, 2015, 10:40 AM
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It currently has 135k miles. Last oil change did use seafoam but has not seemed to help. Took back into shop to tell them the events...update on the way home engine light came back on and low oil warning alert came on as well. I'm thinking either the screen or the oil pump.
Old January 21st, 2015, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by kj08burb
It currently has 135k miles. Last oil change did use seafoam but has not seemed to help. Took back into shop to tell them the events...update on the way home engine light came back on and low oil warning alert came on as well. I'm thinking either the screen or the oil pump.
Any update on this one?
Old May 10th, 2015, 4:26 PM
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hello every body i am new on forum i have chevy tahoe 2007 5.2 last two weeks i get low oil pressure problem i already change oil and oil filter but still the same. specially when i go more 120 KM/h can any body advice me about that problem waiting for your reply
Old May 11th, 2015, 3:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Subur2023
I'm new to the forum and I just purchased a used 2008 Chevy Suburban 1500 LT. Drove the SUV for perhaps a 1000 miles currently have 11600 miles on the SUV and the low oil pressure warning came on saying shut off engine. My question is this normal for a Suburban with11600 miles to have a low oil pressure problem. Checked the oil and level is fine, no engine noise either . Had a certified ASE mechanic check out the problem and he seems to think the engine is bad internally?? I didn't drive the SUV when the warning light came on. Should I have the mechanic change the oil pressure sensor and change the oil and use 10w-40 instead of 5w-30?
Has anyone else had this problem and I'm not under the GM warranty anymore. The previous owner added some after market gadget on the SUV to get more mpg and that I was told wiped out the warranty??

Please help
I had this issue (along with some others) back in December and come to find out the lifters, rods and oil pressure sensor was bad....then we also found out the pump was bad. Pump is in a tight space so yes the pump is less than $100, but the labor will get you. $900 for the pump to be replaced, but I've gone through another 5k miles without any problems. Yet. They will burn more oil than desired, but its the aluminum block that's doing it. GM has a bulletin out something about a quart every 1000-1500 miles will burn off, so make sure you check the levels regularly. From doing the research on the pressure problem average age of the vehicles have been around 125k miles, so where you're at isn't unlikely. Good luck!
Old June 3rd, 2015, 1:57 AM
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Default Loyal Chevy customer treated like garbage

Originally Posted by Chevrolet Customer Service
Subur2023, have you yet tried speaking with our Customer Assistance team about the issues you are having? They would be able to work with you and the dealership towards a resolution. If you would like I can setup a case for you. Just direct message me your contact information and I will handle it from there. I hope you are able to get this fixed.

Jeff Morris, Chevrolet Customer Service
I have had nothing but problems with my 07 Silverado 1500 LT crew cab new body style and Chevrolet customer service did nothing but weasel out of everything promised I had an issue with hub bearing that I almost lost more then just the money I had to spend on fixing the truck from a bad hub that literally almost put me off a bridge and broke my axle as well and caliper and many other parts and even though there is a recall I had to pay out of pocket after numerous phone calls and emails for weeks and no help at all it was barely out of warranty but it was recorded over and over that I heard it grinding and noises from my differential and every time sun Buick GMC in moosic pa told me everything was fine there's nothing wrong and when something actually did happen to where I was complaining about while it was under warranty Chevy service would not do anything and there's still something seriously wrong where I've been going threw axles and hub bearings and 4wd acuaters that are 480$ just for part and I'm stuck with it so I will when I pay it off try to trade it into dodge because I'm done with Chevy I've had Chevy's my whole life and these new Chevy's are very cheaply made and Chevy does not stand by there vehicles anymore they let you drown in debt from spending more then the payment on repairs a month they definitely are not the Chevy that was my first car that ran amazing with very little upkeep and only got new vehicle to have the latest of Chevy's line up out of love now I'm just gunna hope that dodge have a heart and care for life long loyal customers because Chevy left me out in the cold such a shame
Old June 3rd, 2015, 11:19 PM
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Default Lifter filter under sending unit

If you remove the sending unit there is a screen underneath it's called the lifter oil filter it gets clogged up and doesn't let the oil pressure get to the sending unit. Remove the filter with a pic being careful not to break it when removing it you can get it for around six dollars at the GM dealership good luck
Originally Posted by kj08burb
I had this issue (along with some others) back in December and come to find out the lifters, rods and oil pressure sensor was bad....then we also found out the pump was bad. Pump is in a tight space so yes the pump is less than $100, but the labor will get you. $900 for the pump to be replaced, but I've gone through another 5k miles without any problems. Yet. They will burn more oil than desired, but its the aluminum block that's doing it. GM has a bulletin out something about a quart every 1000-1500 miles will burn off, so make sure you check the levels regularly. From doing the research on the pressure problem average age of the vehicles have been around 125k miles, so where you're at isn't unlikely. Good luck!

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