New Brake Issue with 06 Suburban
January 30th, 2019, 5:58 PM
#1
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New Brake Issue with 06 Suburban
So I just changed the disc pads on my 06 Suburban with Wagner ceramic Pads. Didn't have any issues, they were just getting near the sensors. Rotors were smooth as silk and didn't need resurfaced. Calipers all pressed in fine with no issues. I removed about 28 oz of old brake fluid from the master cylinder and put in new Dot 3 fluid. The left rear smells like something is burning after I make several stops. I hit the rotors with a digital temp meter and the right rear reads140 degrees while the left rear is 290 degrees. Any suggestions...
January 31st, 2019, 1:44 PM
#5
a c clamp will press back a seized piston and that is why you should you a tool designed to press them back. A proper tool will not give you the leverage to push back seized pistons.
so now you must determine if the caliper is seized or the flex line is deteriorated.
so now you must determine if the caliper is seized or the flex line is deteriorated.
Last edited by tech2; January 31st, 2019 at 9:03 PM. Reason: spelling for to or
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February 1st, 2019, 7:41 AM
#8
I suspect collapsed flexible brake line or you need to adjust so there's a tad more free play in the brake pedal. Maybe the "rest" position actually actuates brake a little after stuff warms up, happened on my truck once.
February 1st, 2019, 6:28 PM
#9
CF Active Member
As I previously posted if the calipers are good (and I would expect new ones to be good), I'd suspect a collapsed brake line. The internal line has collapsed in such a way it won't allow the caliper to release the piston(s) or only allows it to release slowly.
February 2nd, 2019, 9:30 AM
#10
new parts can be bad and it wreaks havoc into the diagnostic thought process. the new caliper is under warranty...exchange it for free before doing anything else.
its unlikely the flex line went from working to bad in the hour it took to change the caliper.
when you change calipers...don't clamp on the flex lines to stop fluid flow...it damages the flex lines. before you remove the caliper...wedge the brake pedal with a stick against the seat and pedal...enough to take up the free play, approx 2 inches...this closes off the m/c ports so you don't drain the m/c.
make sure the caliper bracket is free of rust...so the pad can slide properly.
its unlikely the flex line went from working to bad in the hour it took to change the caliper.
when you change calipers...don't clamp on the flex lines to stop fluid flow...it damages the flex lines. before you remove the caliper...wedge the brake pedal with a stick against the seat and pedal...enough to take up the free play, approx 2 inches...this closes off the m/c ports so you don't drain the m/c.
make sure the caliper bracket is free of rust...so the pad can slide properly.
Last edited by tech2; February 2nd, 2019 at 9:39 AM.